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Flooring

Allure Ultra Install Success and transition questions for planned 2nd room.

I recently bought 20 cases of Allure Ultra Vintage Oak Cinnamon. It is to replace old nasty carpet in the dining room and living room. I just yesterday finished the dining room and I can honestly say laying the floor was the easiest part. I will post pics in a second, but it took me longer to rip out the old carpet, patch up shoddy contractor work, and put down quarter round then the flooring. A couple things that helped immensely.

 

1. Vinyl tile cutter!!! Well worth the $25. I put a piece in to start the cut, then flip it over to finish on the other side. It didn't always make the cleanest pretty cut, but since the cuts are hidden by moulding, who cares. Much easier than using a blade. 

 

2. Check and re-check your work. Every couple rows, I made sure I didn't miss any gaps. Only once did I have to pull up a couple rows to fix a gap I missed. I can't imagine the frustration of having to rip up more than that to fix a gap I missed. 

 

3. For long rip cuts, I used another piece of flooring on top of what I was cutting as a straight edge. I held in place with my knee as I cut with a razor. Worked the best for me and made it easy to cut nice straight lines. 

 

Here are before and after pics.

IMG_20120605_155837.jpg

IMG_20120605_223305.jpg

IMG_20120606_165106.jpgIt was pouring outside, so the lighting isn't great. 

 

Now for my questions.

 

1. In the room above, there is a transition from the Allure Ultra to tile. The distance from the top of the Allure to the top of the tile is just under 1/2 inch. Will a floor reducer type moulding cover that large of a distance?? I am planning on trying to find a match and using one of the 5-1 type kits. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100529203/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=5+1+moulding&storeId=10051 Unless a better option exists. Here are pics of the transition.

IMG_20120607_100732.jpgIMG_20120607_100740.jpgMy next question is what to do in the living room. It is a townhouse so there is a stairway that leads from the front door and garage to the living room. Here is a pic.

IMG_20120607_100710.jpg

For now I am leaving the stairway carpeted. At the top of the stairway is a small landing and then you turn left and you are in the living room after one more step up. That last step I would like to rid of the carpet but not sure best product to use to make it look "right". I am hoping to find a wood or laminate stair nosing that would transition to the Allure Ultra but without having products in hand at my house, it's hard to figure what will work. I have read through many of the posts and am aware of most the options and using any type of metal is out. I would consider a vinyl nosing, but am hoping to find a wood/laminate option that color matches and the thickness matches up. The 2 products I have found that I hope would work are http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100529203/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=5+1+moulding&storeId=10051 this same product as above where the Allure slips under the T moulding that would connect it to the nosing of the stair. But not sure if the thickness would line up. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100671313/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=laminate+stair+tread&storeId=10051 is another option, but again not sure if the thickness of the products would line up. 

 

My last resort is to leave a strip of carpet on the top stair tread and just use a regular transition to the allure. I just think that would look tacky, so trying to avoid. 

 

My problem is, my local store doesn't have a lot of color options in stock, so that makes it very hard to match. The associates were all extremely nice, yet seemed somewhat unknowledgeable about what they have and could order, etc. 

 

Looking for any and all suggestions....Thanks!!!!

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Posted 2012-06-07T14:46:21+0000  by athflying athflying
Also, the tile to Allure transition is 96" wide and the above mentioned moulding kits are 47"...how do you join the two for a seamless look??
Posted 2012-06-07T15:02:29+0000  by athflying

Hey there athflying,

 

Thanks for joining the community!~

 

Your project looks amazing so far! Thanks a ton for sharing the pictures with us, especially the ones of the areas you need help with. It helps out so much in envisioning the area we're looking at.

 

Let's take a look at the reducer issue that you're having first. The FasTrim transition strip that you have picked out might not be the best choice for this, due to the fact that it needs to fit into a channel strip to seat firmly on the floor. This channel strip goes in the area between the two floors, but it doesn't look like you'd have enough of an area for that based on your picture. Normally, I would say that you can use a MultiFloor Transition Strip to do this, but you have quite a large difference in level here, so that may prove too much for it. You can opt to use a wood reducer strip to pull it off. The one I linked to is 3/8 thick so it should match up pretty well based on you saying that it's a bit under 1/2". Before putting that in, I would make the edge of the tile flush so that it goes flat against them. You'll need to join two of these pieces together, so put them up against one another and fill any gapping that occurs with a bit of wood putty in a close color if needed.

 

The landing question is a bit confusing. You'll be removing the carpet, but I'm unsure if you'll be continuing the Allure right up to the step, or if you plan on continuing it down the stair as well. To use something low profile, the MD Stair Edge gives a sleek look to help finish the stair off and also protect the edges of the Allure. Those laminate Stair Nose pieces would be too thick for this floor and would result in raised edges at the stairs. If you were envisioning a different scenario for it, let me know and we can brainstorm a bit more on it.

 

Thanks again for attaching the pictures! Look forward to hearing back from you!~

Posted 2012-06-07T16:58:53+0000  by Jay_HD_CHI

Thanks for the reply.

 

For the landing and stairs, I plan on leaving it carpeted and only remove the carpet from the step that goes from the landing in to the living room. I actually purchased the exact product you linked to today and that is what I plan on using. I am only taking the carpet off the top tread area so should work nicely. I didn't want a metal product, but the pewter is pretty subdued and matches up with the flooring fairly well. My only questions is, should I run the Allure right to the nose of the stair and nail that strip through the Allure or run the Allure to just short of where I nail it to alow it to "float". 

 

For my transition from the tile to the Allure, I did find a simple solutions product http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202216279/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=36069&storeId=10051. From what I can tell, I may have to trim some of the Allure back to make this product work, is that feasible? I bought one and one had to be ordered to cover the full length of the threshold, but now I am wondering if the wood product you linked to would work better. If I were to use the wood product, how do you secure it?? Glue to the tile?? If I decide to do that, can I return a special order item?

 

Thanks for the info!!

Posted 2012-06-07T18:26:08+0000  by athflying

I sat on the floor and played around with the Simple Solutions product I have. If I screw the railing to secure the moulding strip to the sub floor, there will be a fair amount of trimming needing to be done to the Allure which could prove difficult. The easier option would be to mount the railing on top of the Allure and screw it through the Allure in to the subfloor. Will I ruin the floor and it's ability to "float" by screwing the rail through the Allure into the subfloor? The railing would rest on the Allure and then mount the moulding to that. 

 

Another "creative" idea I had was to drill large holes in to the Allure anywhere I need a screw in to the subfloor and the Allure is in the way. Then I could lay the rail on top of the Allure and screw directly to the subfloor just enough to hold the rail in place, not so tight it would keep the floor from floating. So the Allure would be betwen the rail and subfloor, but not screwed down tight. Hope that makes sense. I would attempt to draw a pic, but might be more confusing. 

Posted 2012-06-07T18:58:39+0000  by athflying

Not a problem!~

 

Okay, that makes sense the way you describe it now. Glad we're on the same page with it and that we were thinking of the same product. I thought the Pewter would look the best against the color your working with, that way it won't end up sticking out too much and looking gaudy. I would run the Allure to the step, that way you can create a tight 90 degree angle against the stair. Otherwise, your edging piece might end up a bit lopsided when you tack it down.

 

The link that you put up for the transition strip is pretty similar to the FasTrim pieces from before. These still get locked into a channel piece (albeit this one is metal), but my main concern with this one is that I think it may be too shallow depth wise. You're looking for around 3/8" as you were describing, and I'd worry that this piece might not cut it.

 

The wood product that I linked to can be nailed down to the subfloor or you can use a construction grade adhesive underneath to give it an extra bite as well. Should you decide to go this route, I would contact your local store right away as you will want to cancel your order before it's fulfilled, or contact them for a refund if possible as it would be at their discretion

Posted 2012-06-07T19:02:16+0000  by Jay_HD_CHI

The Simple Solutions I linked to will cover the distance, laid it on the floor and it works. My questions is where to mount the metal railing (channel). My options are to run it across the top of the allure and screw through the Allure in to the subfloor. I am afraid of the long term effects of doing this and anchoring one side of the floor down. 

 

The next option is to trim the Allure back and mount the railing/channel to the subfloor. This would be the most work and not even sure how I would trim the Allure back as there isn't much room to work with there. I can score pieces no problem, just not sure how to snap them out. 

 

Lastly, I considered drilling large holes through the Allure anywhere I need a screw to secure the railing. I could then rest the railing/channel on top of the allure, but lightly screw directly in to the subfloor without anchoring the allure down. I could even look for some metal sleeves or washers that I could as shims for a more secure fit to the subfloor with no pressure being put on the Allure. Kind of a workaround, but might work??

Posted 2012-06-07T19:17:27+0000  by athflying

Well you'd want to be careful with drilling into the Allure and having it too tight against the floor, because that will become a point of buckling if the floor ever decides to. Your second suggestion sounds a lot more feasible, but you will still essentially be taking away from the "floating" concept since the Allure will be bound by the holes made in it.

 

While this sounds like it will work out for your issue, I will warn you that this is more than likely going to be a decision that voids your product warranty for the Allure. So bare that in mind before you decide to do any drilling or change how the floor operates. Just a friendly word of caution = )

Posted 2012-06-07T19:26:33+0000  by Jay_HD_CHI

Well I certainly seem to have met my match in typing speed here. I always fancied myself a rather expedient replier but you certainly have me beat = )

 

I put in my two cents on the transition issue in my post above. If I were to pick any of the ones listed, I'd avoid having to trim down the Allure, it's going to be a painstaking process = /

Posted 2012-06-07T19:30:09+0000  by Jay_HD_CHI

Realistically how much does the floor float? I just can't imagine it running out of room if I drilled 1/2" holes in the Allure that I allowed the screw to pass through. 

 

I can't make it back to the store tonight, but I will stop by in the morning and see what wood pieces I can find and possibly cancel my order. I do know there was nothing matching in a reducer piece, but they did have a T moulding that was pretty close. I guess once I have a color that matches they can order the rest. I hate the waiting, haha, but I do want to do what will look and work best. 

Posted 2012-06-07T19:50:02+0000  by athflying

Well the entirety of the floor itself is floating, and by clamping down one particular spot you create a "weakness" so to speak. Like I said though, I don't disagree with your idea and I think it's a rather novel approach to the situation, but I also have to play a bit of the devil's advocate and let you know about the warranty issues too.

 

Definitely let me know what you find out at the store. Most special orders that are placed for those types of materials can be sent in a number of business days, so you won't have to wait that long. But I would definitely jump on canceling your order asap with the store so that you aren't ordered a piece that you don't need. You can call them up on the phone if you aren't able to make it in and at least let them know that you need to cancel that way.

Posted 2012-06-07T19:56:09+0000  by Jay_HD_CHI
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