I've recently spent a ton of money building a custom table out of red oak ply with inlaid black granite tiles in the center. The table looked AMAZING....until I decided that I was going to Super Glaze it to protect the surface. I did not glaze the tile (can I?). However, my main problem is that it is currently over a month later and about 30% of my table is still not dry. Why? On top of all that, the glaze has ripples and bubbles, and looks like garbage over that 30%. How do I save my investment?
I followed the directions on the box explicitly. Further, my table is currently sitting in my dining room drying. My plan was to just add some more Glaze to even out the surface and call it quits. Is that a bad plan?
Welcome back aalicea,
There are a lot of brands out there that have the name "Super Glaze", but I'm going by the fact that since you put it on your custom wood table that you got it from your local Home Depot. The Super Glaze by Parks correct?
The Super Glaze is a two part epoxy that takes (like you said) reading the box carefully and thoroughly for putting on properly. That 30% of the table that is not drying properly can be caused by several factors.
Good luck with your pouring project!
I too am having issues (yes we mixed according to the instructions) of this product harding. We assume we poured on to thick and that was reason for stickiness in some areas. Pour second top (i have two seperate cabinets) 1/8th this time almost 24 hours later still tacky.
Is this a time/weather factor???
Did the product get damaged in the Home Depot before I purchased?
Welcome to the community!
Thanks for voicing your concern over this product on our forums.
From what you stated in your message, I will have to say that from you pouring on the Park's Super Glaze too thick most likely is the culprit here. As long as you follow the instructions step-by-step very carefully including applying it indoors at room temperature, you should have very little problems. However, if it was applied too thick, the product will give you undesired results.
As for it being damaged before you purchased it, if there was no visible damage to the packaging and contents, the unmixed parts should be unaffected.
Just as I stated earlier on this thread, the instructions are imperative to getting you the best results for the glaze. You may have to unfortunately re-sand/refinish the surface. I know it sounds like extra work, but it would be better than having the bigger problem of your glaze not drying completely, if ever.
Please update us on your progress, or if you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to ask.
I built an oregon state vs. oregon football field beer pong table. I poured the Parks Super Glaze yesterday on the table, I used 4 boxes. Everything turned out great except I have some sticky spots. Will these sticky spots go away or should I just get some more and put another coat on? I am hoping to try the table out this saturday. Thanks
Some people will use a small blow torch like you'd use for browning creme brulee for removing the bubbles. On another site, Instructables.com, I saw a post about using an epoxy glaze, like all of you have mentioned, to glaze pennies to a desktop.
Start reading here, Step 6. Step 9, they talk about using the torch for the bubbles.
I don't have bubbles, it is a 4x8 sheet that has 4 our 5 sticky spots about the size of a baseball. ?
Welcome to the community.
Just saw your message this morning and I thought I would chime into your beer pong table debacle. I hope it is usable since it is Saturday today.
As I stated earlier on this thread with previous users, the sticky spots of the your table can be due to several factors, like apply the epoxy too thick in those areas, to even improper mixing.
Refer to the eariler posts on this thread, you may have to refinish the table or at least in spots. I hope you get the results you like for your table, as this epoxy can take the abuse of what you guys dish out on it.
If the epoxy was mixed thoroughly, the thickness of application will have nothing to do with areas remaining sticky. This is a chemical reaction. The components must be completely mixed and allowed a few minutes to blend together.
If you still have sticky spots after 24 hours, try either moving the piece to a much warmer area, or aiming an infra-red heat lamp at the sticky areas. Heat will help complete the re-action. By these re-actions, heat accelerates the re-action, cold will stop it. The mixed components, if put in the refrigerator, will still be liquid hours later. Conversely, on a hot day, the re-action and hardening will be much faster.
I completely sympathize with what you're experiencing with your table. I'm in exactly the same situation with this Glaze, (with air bubbles, ripply surface, NOT dry after a long period of time) and am not entirely sure what to do about it. In a different discussion forum on another site someone said to lay another (thin) coat over the top, as your message had said, but I tried that, and it didn't seem to work very well...that same site said that usually the situation that we're both in results as a function of not mixing the two solutions long enough together and that apparently it needs to be mixed somewhat longer than the box says. :/
I am currently at a bit of a standstill and sad about the tv tables, as I had sealed them and then laid shapes and cutouts over the tops, applying park's glaze in the hopes that it would seal them in...I have wondered if there's as way to remove it somehow and just start over with a different product, or start again?