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Bath & Faucets


My toilet flange is too high after removing the dry mortar bed for new tile floor installation...

Before I begin with my concern, I must inform that I am new at this.  This is my first tile job!   I am retiling a bathroom floor, after removing the old tile and the dry mortar bed, I came to realization that the toilet flange might be too high for the new floor. It currently sits 1 1/2" from the subfloor, I figure 1/2 hardebacker and tile would only be 3/4 of an inch. That would leave the flange 3/4 of  inch above the finished floor. What would be my solution to building this floor bak up to the flange?

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Posted 2012-10-30T02:51:15+0000  by TGDoubleu TGDoubleu
You have a few options for this.
1. Install additional plywood subfloor on top of your original subfloor to build it up. Using screws & glue will help prevent possible movement & squeaking later on.
2. You can pour a new self leveling mortar bed. We do this for every bathroom floor we install. 1 1/2 inches is a bit high, so either way, you're going to have a considerable step at the door. Self leveler dries dead flat every time, which makes your tile installation a breeze. You can transition this step by using a full slab thickness piece of granite or travertine. You'll have to get it cut & beveled to meet your need.
3. You can change your flange to lower it. This is way more work, especially since if you had a floor bed to remove, your flange is probably cast iron. Lowering your flange will, however, lower your finished floor height & transition.

I can walk you through whichever method you decide to use. Good luck.

Best Answer

Posted 2012-10-30T12:54:12+0000  by fpcustoms
Don't know what the "nail it" signifies, so I hit it to see what would happen. I apologize if I used it incorrectly or out of context. First time user here.
Posted 2012-10-30T12:58:00+0000  by fpcustoms

Hello TGDoubleu.  Welcome to the Community!

TGDoubleu wrote:

...That would leave the flange 3/4 of  inch above the finished floor. What would be my solution to building this floor back up to the flange?

I think that fpcustoms "nailed it" very well with his answer.  If your subfloor is level now, then a 3/4" plywood underlayment before you add the backer board and tile should bring the floor up to where is originally was.  I am assuming that that is where you want the height to be.

You will want to get a feel for how level your floor is first, and pick the plywood thickness that will allow a leveling compound to finish the desired installed floor height.  You can find LevelQuik here.


Floor Leveler.jpg 


Leveler Desc.png

Is this what you were looking for?  Please let us know if we can be of further assistance.






Posted 2012-10-30T14:08:47+0000  by Chris_HD_CHI

Hey fpcustoms.  Welcome to the Community!


fpcustoms wrote:
Don't know what the "nail it" signifies, so I hit it to see what would happen. I apologize if I used it incorrectly or out of context. First time user here.

A "nail it" is a reward that any member on the Community can give to another.  It basically says that the answer someone gave was really good and helpful.  Over time these "nail its" help to elevate the ranking of a member who receives them.  The same thing also applies to "accepted solutions"  These are rewards that only the original poster on any thread can give to the one member's answer that best solves the problem or answers the question being asked.

Thank you for becoming a forum member.  You obviously have lots of experience to share in helping others.  Please feel free to help out when you get the chance.  There are also lots of folks here who may be able to help with any questions you may have.





Posted 2012-10-30T14:25:25+0000  by Chris_HD_CHI

Welcome to the community fpcustoms!


"Nail it" is basically a "Thank you” or” Thanks” option they have on the other forums out there…

Good suggestions btw…do you guys specialize in kitchens and baths?

Here’s another “outside the box” option …


Use ADA toilet base extension/conversion kit or what they also call “Toilevators”


These kits are available from plumbing supply houses and are mainly used in healthcare industry…


This is the picture of one of the leading brands out there guessed right it’s called “Toilevator” :smileyvery-happy:

 toilevator.jpgtoilevator (1).jpg

These extension kits are typically supplied with 3-1/2 inch flange extension. With your flange 1-1/2” from the floor, you’re not going to be able to use the extension that is supplied with the kit being that it would raise your existing flange for 3-1/2” inches.


Instead, you can use slip in repair flange which will allow for the height adjustment.:smileywink:

 slip in flange.jpg


Posted 2012-10-30T14:52:02+0000  by George_HD_CHI

Great!  I truly appreciate you....  The first two options make a lot more sense to me than lowering the flange.  I actually have a plumber at my place right now finishing a bath room and wet bar in my basement for my basement renovation.  He just informed me that the flange was high and that he would lower it for me, but as you stated, that would most definitelt change the transition.  So with that being said, again, options 1 & 2 sounds great, but since I am new to this, which option would you prefer?  Better yet, which options is the least complicated.  FYI!  I am mechanically inclined, just not on floors.  Worked on airplanes for a longtime while a member of the USAF.  Thanks for your intruction and guidance.  I need it!  :)

Posted 2012-10-30T16:47:50+0000  by TGDoubleu

One more thing!  I purchased Hardeboard, 1/2 inch for this job.  If using the leveling compound, will there still be a need for the backer board?  If so, the thickness of this board has to be included in the amount of leveler I need.  That if we, me and you, (LOL) choose to go that route. 

Posted 2012-10-30T16:53:07+0000  by TGDoubleu

Hey TGDoubleu.


Well, George's solution is the easiest once you get the parts.  It's the new lower floor and higher toilet that becomes the issue if there is one.


Between solutions 1 and 2, I would call it a toss-up.  You would need a lot of floor leveler to make up for just cutting plywood to fit as a way to raise the floor, so I would use plywood if you have anywhere near a level floor.  Bringing the height back to original also has the benefit of making the floor as solid as possible.  Keeping floor deflection to a minimum will also eliminate the chance of tiles popping.


Since you have a plumber there, yes having the flange lowered is easiest for you, but now you will have a height transition out of the bathroom.  You also cannot be sure where the new flange height should be. 


Yes, you should use backerboard and include it in your height measurement.





Posted 2012-10-30T17:02:25+0000  by Chris_HD_CHI

Thank you!

Posted 2012-10-31T13:59:17+0000  by TGDoubleu
Happy to help. Let me know if tou have any issues with tile later on. Good luck
Posted 2012-10-31T20:30:08+0000  by fpcustoms
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