Hello community! I have a bare side yard that i was planning to do a walkway of pavers. There are no grass here, just the soil, house and fence. *Right now the plan is pavers, sod and a raised flower bed.
The soil is slanting away from the house. So my question is,
how much should I dig?Because online videos show that there is sod already. As you can see we don't have currently.
The soil is already slanting away from the house but I feel it is slanting too much. How do establish the foundation of the pavers considering I was hoping to put sod in the future. Do I put the plastic edge restraint before I put my foundation? I was also hoping not to cover the drain line with the pavers. Should I add more soil on top of it then level and adjust the slanting from there?
Thank you very much!
I'm Travis from The Home Depot in Atlanta. Welcome to The Community!!
Two years ago, we had some record setting rainfall in my area. Some called it a 500 year rain event. I hope I never see that much rain again.
My back yard has some "low spots" that I was tempted to fill in. I'm glad that I never got around to doing that. Those low spots successfully carried the rain water safely around my home and away from my foundation.
Your picture appears to show a drainage system running between your home and your neighbor's. I would suggest a walk path of gravel or pea pebbles interspersed with stepping stones along the low point of the yard. The pebbles will allow drainage as before while keeping you out of the mud.
Flower beds along the upper edges and sod in between looks like a great design. If you extend the concrete pad from the door, be sure to accommodate the necessary drainage under the pad. Building up the soil could jeopardize the drain capability of the yard and you should maintain a 6" gap between the top of the flower beds and the siding on your house for termite control.
Once again, Welcome to The Community! Enjoy your private garden.
Sure, you can place the walkway anywhere that it is convenient, I was thinking that the gravel bed (or paver base) could double as a drain basin. I like multitasking wherever possible.
Be sure to maintain the drain's ability to move the water through the area without creating puddles.
The pavers should be set to nearly level so that they don't become slippery to walk on. Scrape out the walk path and apply leveling sand where the pavers will go. Your soil appears rather sandy, so paver base might be a firmer base because it has larger aggregate to support additional weight. Edging comes in metal or plastic that can be installed to hold the sand in place. It installs into the soil with only an inch or so above the surface. Spread the base, place the pavers and tamp into position. Maintain the slope of the rest of the yard to keep it draining properly.
If water flows into the yard from outside of the fence, the concrete pad might create a damming effect that could become a problem later. (I could be wrong, though.) A drain that runs under the concrete might be necessary.
Edging stones can build up a low retaining wall to keep the flower bed soil in check. Until then, spread mulch over the areas to temporarily control erosion. Scrape the area that you will put down pavers so that the paver base will settle and not wash away. With the paver tops at soil level, you can mow over them with a standard lawn mower.
Sorry I did not find your post sooner. Thank you for your question and welcome to our community.
Along with the other ideas I gave you, I think that sod in the center or in the area where your drain is would be a good start. Be sure to add a screened drain to prevent clogging. It looks like you have some very sandy soil. This will be great if you plan to have some fruit trees, but for a lawn, you will need to add some soil amendments to help the soil retain water for your grass. You have plenty of room to raise the soil, just be sure to maintain you slant away from the house.
When putting in your raised flowerbed, I would use a good garden soil will a little perlite added for drainage. You can also use regular potting soil for your raised flowerbed. The soil available to you will depend on what part of the United States you are located.
So you have any down spouts that drain into your back yard? This may be an issue if you receive a lot of rain in your area. Be sure to maintain your slant for the water to drain away from your foundation. Do not have the soil anywhere near your weep screed, ( the galvanized J-Trim with weep holes) on the bottom of your stucco. If moisture gets above this area, the moisture can be wicked into your 2X4 framing. The result is not a pretty site.
After seeing the picture of your backyard, I think that having the pavers level with your concrete pad next to the door would be a good idea. You could also paint the pad to match the pavers you install, just to add unity to the whole project. If you have an area that does not give the pavers any side support, it would be a good idea to use the edging designed for pavers.
Providing your drain does not get clogged, you could connect any nearby downspouts directly to your drain via underground drain pipe and still have a drain available for your lawn area. Your drain can be raised up to be flush with your pavers if you deside to extend the pavers over the drain.
The pavers will need to be shaped around the drain to give the project a complete look.
I like your plan and I am curious to see what you back yard looks like after your landscape project has been completed.
In this case, clay soil may be easier to work with than loamier soils would be. The clay will require less tamping to settle it. The pipe will hold the weight, as long as the soil is properly filled around the pipe to evenly distribute the load. Be careful not to raise the drain openings too far so that the water pools around them.
My original suggestion was to facilitate the drain by utilizing a bed of gravel interspersed with stepping stones to maximize drainage by absorbing the water over a larger area than just the drain openings. This gravel field can help move the water more effectively to the openings below the gravel. Use a cone shaped turret style drain cap to prevent clogging.