I recently purchased a 1932 home that has the original hardwood floors. In the living room & dining room the floors do not appear to have any type of seal or wax. In the 2 bedrooms the floors have somewhat of a shine, unknown if it is sealed or what. I was reading some of the answers written back in 2012, but, I'm really unsure as what to do. The Rejuvenate, will that just clean the floors without harming the wood? What type of wax should be used? These floors are very dirty and I just can't stand it any longer :smileysad:
I had someone come in and give me an estimate for sanding/refinishing the floors and he was surprised on how great the wood appears. Would love to do that, but, just can't afford it at this time. PLEASE HELP!!
WOW! A 1932 home with original hardwood floors that appear to be unfinished in two rooms and have a slight shine in two rooms.
What a find!
Hardwood floor finishing wax, like Minwax Paste Finishing Wax would likely be similar to the product used by traditional woodcrafters if they did not intend to seal the floor with a clear coat.
According to the manufacturer:
The Minwax 16 oz. Paste Finishing Wax protects and adds luster to any stained or finished wood surface. It is recommended for use on furniture, antiques, woodwork, cabinets, doors and paneling that do not need a hard, protective coat of polyurethane. The paste finishing wax produces hard, dry, oil-less polish.
- Use on furniture, antiques, woodwork, cabinets, doors and paneling
- Produces hard, dry oil-less finish
- Protects and adds luster to any stained or finished wood surface
- Dries in 10-15 minutes before buffing
In preparation for refinishing, you would most likely sand the entire floor and vacuum up all of the dust.
Then simply follow the directions on the wax container.
Waxing over an existing stained floor without a clear coat is perfectly fine.
If your floor has existing polyurethane (even a thin coat), paste wax will absorb into the clear coat and cause the surface to become "cloudy" ... essentially ruining the appearance of the floor.
So, clear coated floors should never be waxed.
Rejuvinate contains a cleaner and polish intended for short-term (6-month) touch up.
Products like Swiffer and Murphy's Oil are cleaners labeled, "Safe on Hardwoods;" safer choices for simply cleaning while leaving the wood uncoated.
Thank you for your response. I think that I will try the Rejuvenate and see how that works. I'm afraid if the bedrooms flooring has something on it using the MiniWax may cause a cloudy appearance, not a good thing :catsad:
Wise decision cm123!
After all, your floors will look much better for about six-months and you can repeat Rejuvinate then.
Or, you may choose the more labor-intensive sanding and recoating process at any time.
When you finally decide to recoat, ask your Tool Rental Associate to show you the 18 x 24-inch box sander.
This tool is much lighter than the heavier belt sander, and should make quick work of that thin existing wax coating.
Happy New Year!
Thank you for the idea about the home sander, however, I doubt very seriously that I will redo them myself. Just too old to attempt that :womanlol:
I'm always suspicious of some miracle product in a bottle and the stuff you mentioned sounds like it's supposed to add sheen to an already finished floor. To me it sounds more like a bottle of Mop 'n Glow.
Your floors probably had some kind of finish at one point in time, either shellac or varnish but from what you describe that it's mostly to completely gone. If the floors are dirty, they need to be cleaned (or sanded to bare wood). Any kind of water based cleaner is likely to raise the grain and that wouldn't be a problem if you intended to sand the floors. I might suggest starting with mineral spirits or naptha and seeing what it takes off. Maybe the best course of action is to clean the floors to see where you stand and then saving your money for professional refinishing.
Wax will add some sheen (a low level of sheen) but will provide little to no protection. I've never liked Miniwax's wax, to me it never buffed out completely. I'd go with Butcher's bowling alley wax.
Thank you for your response. I will take your advice under consideration.
I'm not sure how they were building mobile homes in 1932, but I would be concerned that ithe floor is not solid stock wood, but rather some lighter weight, veneered product, in which case it may not be sandable.
I would first try , as Adam suggested, cleaning the floor with mineral spirits and fine steel wool. It might be that it even comes clean enough that it would take a little new stain. If this succeeds, and you want to try urethane over it, it would definitely be a good idea to make a test in an inconspicuous corner. Urethanes are very particular about what they will stick to, old shellac being one of them, along with any old traces of wax.
Thank you for your response. It is not a mobile home, sorry if there was some miscommunication. I will be trying the suggestions.
I in my younger days I installed ,sanded and re finshed hard wood floors, Really the best thing is to carpet them.
If you dont want that an cant afford a pro to come in and refinish , you can do a decent job of it your self.
you can rent a orbatul or viberratig sander
(with lots of elbo grease). Sand the floors ,fill the pits with wood filler and sand again. Then put A sanding sealer on it,
and then a light sanding by hand,
.(remember i said a lot of elbo grease} clean the dust VERY well and apply a poleyurathin. let dry, stand back an smile
an be very PROUD of yourself because yuo just saved your self a lot of money.
PS,I dont think you should try staining the floor your self as it should be sanded an prepared by a pro before staining.
But it is possible to do it yourself for a nat finish, Im shure you can find more detailed info. GOOD LUCK HAVE FUN.
Thank you for your response, however, I am too old to sand floors myself. I am going to try the rejuvenate and see what that does. And, in the meantime save money to have them done professionally. :womanwink: