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glaze coat

I have just used glaze coat on a bartop that I'm making. It has cured for three days now and has a few spots that are still bumpy (not air bubbles). Can I use clay bar to work off the bumps? This is the stuff that is used on car finishes (clear coat) to do this same thing. I just wonder if it will work the same on this epoxy
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Posted 2011-08-03T04:30:39+0000  by gsx gsx
 

Greetings GSX,

 

My name is Tom, also known as HD116 here in the community. Being a woodworker for many years, I too have worked with glazes, varnishes, and urethane finishes. I am familiar with clay bar techniques, but have never heard of using them for this particular application. The traditional use of a clay bar is for cleaning and revitalizing paint and finishes as the clay removes the tiny particles embedded in the finish coat or paint. They do this effectively, but do not remove swirl marks, oxidation or in your case, "bumps".

 

One technique is to cut any bumps with a new razor blade and then wet sand with 400 grit sandpaper in a circular motion. You can then do a final coat or buff out the finish. It would be useful to know what product you were using if you need further assistance.

 

In any event I hope that helps and I wish you the best on your project. We here would love to see a photo, it would likely help if you need additional help.

 

 

Posted 2011-08-03T14:41:03+0000  by HD116

Hey GSX, Blake here from The 'Depot out here in California. I wanted to add some of my pocket change to this conversation. If your glaze coat needs a high-gloss, wet-looking finish I do agree that wet-sanding may be the way to get there. 400 grit would be a good place to start as HD116 suggested, however for a super smooth finish I would suggest compound sanding your way up to at least 1500 grit, then polishing using a rubbing compound. (sandpaper of ultra high grit will be availible at any auto supply store that sells paint as well as a rubbing/polishing compound.

 

The process on compound sanding starts at the low grit (400) then works up in incraments till you get to your finishing grit (1500-2000) 

 

Something in the line of: 400, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000. Making sure that every time you go up in grit, ALL of the scratches from the previous grit are removed. It can be a long process, but the results are exellent. Once you reach the highest grit you can begin polishing with an old cotton rag and rubbing compound (you may also use a mechanical buffer if you are proficient in their use {I'm sure not}). 

 

Although not exactly the same finish, the Acrylic used to make headlights these days works similarly to most hardened urethanes and jel coats. This is a pair of headlights that I cleaned up for a buddy of mine using the compound sanding/polishing method to give you an idea.

 

Before compound sanding and polishing:

headlight2.jpg

 

 

After compound sanding and polishing:

Headlight1.jpg

 

I hope this suggestion helps GSX, we have got some knowlegeable people on this fourm who might drop by to give their bump removing tips and tricks! 

 

Good luck with your project GSX, 

 

-Blake 

Posted 2011-08-03T19:25:59+0000  by BlakeTheDiyGuy

Here is a close up of the issue that I have encounteredIMAG0024.jpg

Posted 2011-08-03T20:07:59+0000  by gsx

Hey GSX, Good to hear from you again! First, let me tell you that wood grain looks fantastic under the glaze! I think that Compound sanding would do a great job of getting rid of those small bumps. I think that wet compound sanding starting at 600-800 grit sandpaper would work perfectly. For how fine that finish is I would reccomend ending at 2000 grit and hand polishing with a compound. 

 

When wet sanding, remember to protect neighboring surfaces with masking tape, and remember to keep the surface moist with water. Having a spray bottle handy really helps the process, as well as a bunch of rags.

 

The most key part of the process is making sure that all of the previous grit scratches are gone before you step up again. You will get a good feeling by gauging how much resistance there is on the sandpaper. 

 

Good luck GSX, I'd love to see what it looks like when you are done. By the looks of it you have done a great job with that stain!

 

-Blake

Posted 2011-08-03T20:17:10+0000  by BlakeTheDiyGuy

Thanks Blake... Foremost I'm a mechanic and do other jobs as a hobby for fun. My next question is, what compound do you recommend for this type of product?

Posted 2011-08-03T20:22:50+0000  by gsx

Hey GSX, the only one I have used is from 3M, it is the 3M™ Rubbing Compound I have found that this works well for hand buffed applications. Unfortunately it is not sold at Home Depot, but most auto parts stores will carry it or something similar. Just be sure you arent getting a machine buffing compound. 

 

If you have any friends that work in auto paint or body repair they may have some tricks of the trade that will help get it ultra-glossy.

 

Let me know if you have any more questions along the way!

 

 

Posted 2011-08-03T20:41:03+0000  by BlakeTheDiyGuy

Hey Blake... is it the liquid or solid bar type that you have used?

 

edit...

 

I found the link for it thanx...

 

I'll let you know how it turns out

Posted 2011-08-03T21:57:11+0000  by gsx

Sounds good GSX. Can't wait to hear from you!

Posted 2011-08-03T22:37:02+0000  by BlakeTheDiyGuy
 
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