We have just gutted a CB horse stable and retrofitted with stalls made of tongue-in-groove lumber. It is beautiful and bright. We've decided not to stain the T&G, but seal it, since the previous interior was dark and depressing, we'd like to keep the light feeling. So, what product should we use? A water-seal? How often does it need to be resealed? Thanks for your assistance!
Welcome to the community woman with tools. Have no fear ThePaintAvenger is here. To keep the stable bright and vibrant there’s a new product called Varathane Polyurethane. One of the great things about this product is when this product is applied the wood does not slightly change color. It keeps the natural color of the wood while protecting it at the same time. This is the only product that offers a flat finish but it also comes in a satin, semi-gloss, and gloss.
Varathane Soft Touch Polyurethane is the most durable finish for protecting wood surfaces and outperforms traditional oil based polyurethanes. Easily covers bare and stained wood surfaces. Easy to use formula.
Or this may be your best bet overall.
The Minwax Helmsman 1-Gal. Satin Spar Urethane provides up to 500 sq. ft. of coverage. It provides a protective finish for interior or exterior wood surfaces that may be exposed to sunlight, water or temperature changes. This product contains UV blockers to resist damage caused by the sun to keep your wood surfaces looking pristine.
Best wishes on your product by the way it looks amazing on how it was built, you did a great job. I would like to see some pics when its done :) ThePaintAvenger
I believe you really do have tools. That's by far the cleanest horse stable I have ever seen!
One thing I can recommend is that even though the stalls are interior, I would use an exterior rated product.
Here in Chicago, the horses heat the barns. They do this well enough for them, but temperature swings inside a barn are still sufficient that a softer, more flexible exterior coating is well advised. The Spar Urethane is actually a great choice, as over time it may add a light, slightly amber patina to the stall walls. A water seal product is actually more of a wax. I think you would be much happier with a poly/urethane coating as ThePaintAvenger recommends.
Nice picture. Got any of horses?
I believe a clarification is neccessary as to how oil and water based urethanes affect the wood color: All oil based urethanes impart a slight amber tone to wood. Water based urethanes dry crystal clear. However, woods that are not color stabilized with a stain will darken and redden to some degree.
In my former home, I had red oak woodwork in the kitchen which I merely varnished, knowing that it would darken somewhat until it had reached equalibrium. I was happy knowing that this would happen and I liked the final result. My wife bought an unfinished white pine corner hutch. Again knowing what would happen, I again merely varnished the hutch. Inside of several months, the bright white pine matched the warm, red oak!
Had I wanted to keep the same bright white pine, I would have applied a white pickling wiping stain. This step will greatly stabilze the color change of the wood. If doing this, one must be careful not to miss any areas. It is difficult to see if everything has been hit with the stain, but if an area is missed, it will change color and stick out like sore thumb!
Your attached photo appears to show that the wood above either already has some light stain on it, or has already turned darker naturally. If this is the case, you might want to find a similar color light stain to treat the lighter wood on the bottom to match the darker stain above.
One further point is that oil based urethanes and varnishes also tend to yellow with age, whereas the water based staz relatively clear.
Hope this clarification has helped.
Thank you, Paint Avenger! I will look at both products. I like the idea of water-based, dries in two hours... but would I be better off to take the extra time (and banish "the kids" from the barn for two days) to use the oil-based product? In terms of durability/length of time before it needs to be done again, is oil-based the way to go? The east and west ends of the barn are open most of the time, exposing the wood to weather (mostly sun, lots of sun...). I do want to protect my project, as I know what the elements can do.
What a beautiful, natural wood stable.
The light-color wood, the black metal gates, and the gray concrete floors and walls create an outstanding visual contrast!
I wanted to add one thought to the thread:
Varathane is an interior-only product.
You can see the word on the label just below the word Matte.
As such, it will fail much sooner if exposed to sunlight.
So, this product should only be used on surfaces that will not be in direct sunlight.
If the surface will be exposed to sunlight, you can use Spar Urethane which is rated interior/exterior or you can use Behr Transparent Wood Stain ... Natural is the closest color to clear and this exterior product includes color, waterproofing, and UV (ultraviolet light/sunlight) protection.
There is a good argument for not using a stain at all, but merely applying a protective urethane and allowing the wood to age naturally - any future wear or scratching will only bare the wood, not disturb a colored stain. It is for such a reason I did not have my oak floors stained. Any scratch does not permanently disturb the color. The varnish is esy to touch up.
Varathane is interior as Pat In Paint pointed out technically your paint the inside of the barn.The Only reason i suggested this product because there is no discoloration which i think is what you're going for. I do recommend the spar urethane it contains UV blockers to protect against fading and graying. Special oils allow the finish to expand and contract with the wood as the seasons and temperatures change. It has the Oil-based formula that forms a barrier against rain and moisture to protect the wood.
Even tho the varathane is a water based product and dries in two hrs, in my opinion the oils lasts alot longer. I would go with the spar urerthane.
I always chose to treat areas such as garages as interiors because they lacked the severity of climate that strictly exterior surfaces do: no sudden temperature swings, no rain and little or no direct sun.
Being from the old school, I too have thought that oil based to be superior. I am being slowly converted. I recently
had my seven year old oak floors re-coated with a urethane finish. However, after researching my options, I decided to avoid the extremely tough, but toxic original oil based Glitza urethane, and go to BONA`s water based ,catalized urethane, TRAFFIC HD. It has been 2 months and it seems to be doing the job. It could be walked on in 4 hours, had little smell, we could sleep in the house that night and the furniture could go back after 3 days, instead of 2 weeks!