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repairing outside spigot

spigot outside is leaking. tube under house goes into foundation and out to spigot.. tried to tighten but i think the whole thing need to be replaced, any suggestions.

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Posted 2011-04-11T18:48:03+0000  by wayne5515 wayne5515

Hi Wayne5515, I’m Blake from The Home Depot in California. In most cases it is not possible to replace the valve or seats inside of a hose bibb as manufacturers do not make them with standard internal parts. Because of this you will need to replace the whole hose bibb. Since there are a few different types of hose bibbs you will need to find out which type you have before you can get a replacement.


Types of Hose Bibbs:


Soldered on (sweat on): Avalible in 1/2" or 3/4"




Male Threaded: Avalible in 1/2" or 3/4"



Female Threaded: Avalible in 1/2" or 3/4"






NOTE: Before removing any pipe fittings ensure that the homes main, or a local shutoff has been closed and that you have opened a valve to release pressure from the system.


If your hose bibb is soldered on to a copper pipe, you have two choices. The best way would be to desolder (melting solder with a mapp torch) and remove the current fitting. I would not suggest using a MAPP torch without the instruction and supervison of someone who has done this before. You could alternately cut off the current fitting (assuming there is enough copper behind it to attach a new fitting. Once the old hose bibb is removed I suggest you solder on a male thread adapter so that the next time you need to replace a hose bib, it will be easier. If you do not want to use a torch you could also install a compression male thread adapter if the installation is exposed.


Compression Male Adapter:


If however your hose bibb is threaded on to a galvanized steel pipe, or a copper pipe with a male-adapter your task will be simple. You need only unthread the existing hose bib and thread on a new one (remember to use PTFE tape or pipe joint compound on the male threads). If it is a copper pipe with a male adapter use two adjustable wrenches, one to hold the pipe fitting steady, and the other to unthread the hose bibb. If it is on a galvanized steel pipe, use a pipe wrench to hold the pipe steady and an adjustable wrench to turn off the hose bib.


One you have your new hose bibb attached turn on the water supply and check for leaks and function.


I hope this helps Wayne5515!



Posted 2011-04-11T19:51:48+0000  by BlakeTheDiyGuy

How can I tell what type of bibbs do I have (solder on, male/Female threaded...)?

Are there marking or tags on the bibbs?

(unable to see pass the hexagonal from the bibb).


Posted 2011-04-25T19:12:25+0000  by George_C

Hey George! I went ahead and snapped some pictures to illustrate the different types of connections. All examples are in ½ inch, ¾ inch are also common.


First, the most common fitting style: hose bibb soldered directly to copper pipe. Notice there is no fitting between the bibb and the pipe.

hose bibb sweated



Second: Female threaded hose bib on ½ inch male adapter soldered on to copper pipe. In this case all you would have to do is unthread the hose bibb and thread on a new one.

Hose bibb female final.JPG



Third: Male threaded hose bibb on ½ inch female adapter, soldered on to copper pipe.  Just like the second example all you need to do here is unthread the hose bibb from the female adapter and thread on a new one.

hose bibb male final.JPG




For replacing a soldered hose bibb refer to my first post in this thread.


I hope this helps George!




P.S. If none of these look like what you have, please upload a picture and we can try to break it down. 

Posted 2011-04-25T20:52:54+0000  by BlakeTheDiyGuy

Do they make a outdoor spigot for the northern states? I live in Minnesota and every other year I'm replacing the spigot. I have a shut off valve inside the house that I shut off every fall but the spigot leaks every couple years I guess from ice that forms from the winter.

Posted 2011-04-26T16:13:41+0000  by jtlee1

Hey jtlee1, welcome to the Home Depot Community!


There is just such a spigot for us northerners.  It's called a "frost free sillcock".

These are available either with or without an integral anti-siphon valve.


The frost-free part works by extending the stem so that the working parts of the valve are actually near the heated side of the house.  These are made in 8", 10", and 12" lengths to match the thickness of your wall.

No ice forms at the back of this valve, and all you have to do in the fall is disconnect your hose and put it away.  Any water sitting in the valve will drain out when you do this, so you're good to go all winter.


Since you live in Minnesota, your local Home Depot will definitely stock these.


One other thing.  Since you have a shut off valve inside the house, the old school way to prevent spigot damage is to simply drain off the water in the pipe between that shut-off and the outside spigot.  If the supply line is not above the spigot level, then there SHOULD be a small cap on the side of the shut-off valve.  It will look like a metal tire valve cap and its purpose is to vent the line right after the valve turns off the water.  If you open this up AND open the spigot after you shut off the water then the line will drain, (have a small bucket handy).  You are now also ready for winter.


I hope this helps,


Posted 2011-04-26T17:18:44+0000  by Chris_HD_CHI

Help - I have a hose bib like pic#3 (threaded) but it's stuck on there pretty good, any ideas on the best way to remove.

I attached a pic.


Thank you in advance2012-04-10_06-31-11_422.jpg2012-04-10_06-31-22_115.jpg

Posted 2012-04-22T21:58:17+0000  by MA_Nalu

Hello and thank you for your question.


It is actually picture # 1 which is sweat on kind or to be exact Nibco model # QT57X :smileyhappy:


This fitting is 1/2" ID (inside diameter) and 3/4" OD (outside diameter).

 nibco hose bibb.jpg

In other words it can be used as a female fitting soldered on to 1/2 " copper pipe or it can be used as a male fitting and soldered in to the 3/4" fitting.


Yours looks like its soldered in to the 3/4" TEE fitting;



This one may be tough to replace, mainly because it’s soldered in. I would suggest to attempt to repair it before replacement. 


To repair this fitting you would first need to remove the top piece called packing nut, once this part is removed you will gain access to something called stem assembly. Stem assembly it’s a screw looking piece with rubber washer attached to it, this washer it’s the reason for all of your troubles, it worn out and it needs to be replaced.


Blake is right these are very difficult to remove. However trick in removing packing nut is to heat it first with torch, heat will break up the thread bond.

Hope this helps,




Posted 2012-04-24T20:25:05+0000  by George_HD_CHI

Thank you Sir!

Posted 2012-06-11T21:07:56+0000  by MA_Nalu

Blake, your first sentence is very misleading. It is not neccesary to replace the entire spigot, a leaking spigot can usually be repaired with just a simple washer that can be had in a washer variety pack located in the plumbing area of all Home Depot Stores.


1.Shut off the water supply for the hose bib that you want to rebuild. Check behind the hose bib outlet, perhaps in a crawl space or basement, for a water supply cutoff valve. Rotate this clockwise to turn off the water. If you do not locate a separate water supply valve, shut off the water supply for your entire house. Locate the main water supply valve, which is usually installed next to the water meter. Use a wrench or pair of pliers to rotate the valve and cut off the water.


2. Open the faucet bib and allow any water inside to run out.



3. Remove the faucet bib screw by loosening the faucet handle screw with a screwdriver. Pull the faucet handle straight up and off the stem.


4. Remove packing nut at the top of the stem. Unscrew this counterclockwise. Pull out the packing material from underneath the nut with a pair of needle-nose pliers.


5. Unscrew the bottommost nut with the wrench counterclockwise. Pull the valve stem out of the faucet bib.


6. Turn the stem over. Use a screwdriver to remove the retaining screw holding the rubber washer in place at the bottom. Replace with a new washer. Insert the screw and tighten.


7. Apply pipe thread compound to the threads on the valve stem and reverse your steps..

Posted 2013-01-14T18:11:56+0000  by gruvenhaus

Hello gruvenhaus.  Welcome to the Community!


The original poster was really asking about replacing the spigot, but this repair may be all that was needed.


You are correct.  In many cases it is quite possible to repair these spigots by replacing the washer and repacking the stem.  George (SteelToes) did briefly go over this process in his post above.


Thank you for your much more descriptive post.  Please feel free to help out answering posters questions and don't hesitate to ask if we can be of any help to you.





Posted 2013-01-14T20:20:52+0000  by Chris_HD_CHI
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