Hmm, there isn't really the right category for this- I guess this one seems closest. I'm trying to figure where would be the best place in a small apt. for a bike hook. The main thing is trying to find a stud. I went by the usual spacing where the studs should be, every 16-17". The area I picked is a small section of wall only 35" long. I tried finding the stud with a small nail first between 16-18" from the left edge, and couldn't tell the difference if one was across there or not. Is there an easier way to figure this, or do I just need to get one of those stud finders?
As far as stud finders, looks like Zircon models 61118 and 63918 would work. Anyone have experience with these?
Cyclist wrote:...Good thing you mentioned regular stud finders don't scan deep enough for plaster walls. However, after I got the deep scan one (but before opening it) I noticed in the fine print it says "not recommended for use on lath and plaster." If that's true, what the heck does it take for one you can use on plaster?...
Hey Cyclist. Welcome back!
I have no idea why that fine print about plaster walls has been added. I've used an old deep scan model on my plaster walls for years and it works just fine. It is obviously more difficult for any device to measure density change when there is thick plaster and then wood strips running across the studs, but it works for me every time.
Go ahead and open up the package and give it a shot.
I've had a zircon for 10yrs and it works well.
Where are you mounting your hooks, in the wall or ceiling?
I mounted my in the ceiling in my garage and park my car under the bicycle.
I’m Travis from The Home Depot in Atlanta. Welcome to the Community!!
The Zircon that I’ve had for 25+ years (Yes, I bought it before I went to work for Home Depot) went missing after a move. I purchased another one and subsequently found the original. Now I keep one upstairs and the other one downstairs because they come in so handy whenever we hang a picture, or another bike!
The 61118 Zircon is an excellent basic stud finder.
The Zircon 63918 is very similar and adds an arrow indicator light to highlight the edges of the stud, making placement more precise.
Other models can sense studs through thicker wall materials, add more advanced graphics and even differentiate between wood and metal inside the wall. These help to avoid contact with electrical conduit and wires inside the walls.
You can use these to locate studs in the ceiling as well as in the wall. The Home Depot offers different styles of bike hangers for many applications.
Don’t throw away your old bicycle innertubes. Recycle them when you plant your next tree! Here’s a video I made about that.
I’ll see you on the trail!!
Hi Travis, thanks. Wow, 13 bikes! I only have 3 currently, but could use one more. Right now I don't have manageable space for those, let alone enough for a fourth, in a little apartment. I'm an avid cyclist too, so that's not that many really. :smileyhappy:
I already got a simple bike hanger (hook) quite a while ago, and never got around to installing it somewhere. It's an Everbilt Heavy Duty Bike Hanger. I got a drill bit too, just couldn't figure where to install it.
It definitely sounds like a stud finder is necessary. Indoors, probably on a wall would keep bikes more out of the way than on a ceiling, I'm thinking. Is there a way to figure where electrical conduit and wires would typically be, or would a wood/metal differentiating finder be advisable?
Oh, that's good to know about the inner tubes. I have a bunch of irreparable ones I was going to extract the valve cores from and toss them.
Those Zircons sound like good equipment. I wasn't even thinking about the ceiling, if that would work. Maybe, with a stud finder. But I think for indoors, mounting it on the wall would be more out of the way than the ceiling.
Hanging the bicycle from the ceiling or on the wall will take up the same space, as far as the bike is concerned. You could use 2 ceiling hooks, one for each wheel to hang the bike upside down. This will create more space under the bike, for instance, say over a washer and dryer. However, that area will become a hard hat zone because of the saddle and handlebars.
I find it easiest to hang the bike from its front wheel on a single hook in the ceiling. The rear wheel area is the heaviest portion of the bike, and is the most stable when lifting. I support the bike with my right hand (I'm right handed) at the base of the saddle stem and guide the front wheel up by holding the wheel rim nearest the pedals.
A wall mounted bike hanger supports the wheel rim and places the bike in the same relative position. The wheels will always come in contact with the wall when this mount is used. The wall mount can reduce the lifting required to hang the bike, if placed relatively low on the wall.
In either case, you can save space between the bikes by alternating one bike's handlebar position up, and the next one's downward. Staggering the hook placement can also help get more bikes into a smaller area. Put that bike back on your Christmas list!
As far as the stud finder goes, textured ceilings create a challenge as to read what's behind them. Also, ceiling joists will cross a load bearing wall. If the nearest wall to the bikes is non load bearing, the joists may run parallel to the wall.
Knock before you enter. The sound will be hollow between the wood studs and joists. The knocking sound will change when you knock on the stud. Knock to locate, then use the stud finder to hone in on the exact position of the stud.
Hey Cyclist. Just a couple of thoughts…
Stud finders are very helpful. The most basic model works with drywall walls fastened to either wood or metal studs just fine. For plaster walls a “deep scan” model works fine in an old home like mine. Slightly higher end models will also find live electrical circuits. I recommend one of these. Just keep in mind that stud finders measure a relative change in density. As such it alarms when you reach the edge of a stud, not the middle. You have to make 2 marks on the wall, (or ceiling), one for each edge. When you do this you will notice that they are about 1.5 inches apart, and the stud is between these 2 points.
Typically builders try to minimize costs, and so electrical runs are somewhat predictable. Outlet and switch boxes can be fed vertically and the power run will be between studs in this case. Sometimes runs are made horizontally between outlet boxes, but there SHOULD be a stud guard like this in front of any power running THROUGH a wood stud:
Since you will need to access a stud, the vertical runs won’t be an issue. The horizontal ones (if any) should give you warning during drilling due to the stud guard. While it is unlikely you will find a problem on the wall where you want to mount the bike, the fastener length you will need tells me that you should check for sure that no utility runs are behind the bracket location. This is especially important if your building uses metal studs. As far as wall mounting a bike goes, you will need a bracket which extends out from the wall quite a ways. Even if you loosen and turn the handlebar 90 degrees relative to the front wheel, one pedal will keep the bike well away from the wall. You will definitely want a specialized wall bracket just for bikes like the ones Travis mentioned.
I hope this helps,
Geez, I haven't been able to find time to continue this project, plus been having web browsing problems. Finally, I can reply.
Of course the bike itself takes up the same space where ever it is, but having it against a wall is going to be considerably more out of the way because of being fully off to one side of the room. If it's hanging (from the ceiling) out from the wall and closer to the center of the room, it's undoubtedly going to be in the way that much more, from more sides.
I tried knocking, but cannot hear any difference anywhere. The walls are plaster, I'm pretty sure, which may be a lot less effective with the knocking method.
Thanks, that helped a lot!
I'm pretty sure the walls are plaster and so the deep scan will be needed. I got a deep scan model with live electrical detection (Zircon e50). But, I'm not really experienced in building construction, so I was going to upload an image of the wall. (But, it seems I need to install Flash Player just to do that. I'm already planning on installing it shortly, so I'll have to post the picture a bit later.) Good thing you mentioned regular stud finders don't scan deep enough for plaster walls. However, after I got the deep scan one (but before opening it) I noticed in the fine print it says "not recommended for use on lath and plaster." If that's true, what the heck does it take for one you can use on plaster?
I'm thinking the way to be sure to detect any power feeds reliably is turn everything in the apartment on when scanning, since it only detects live circuits. That way any circuits in there should be active at the time.
I'm hoping to use the simpler bike hook I already got quite a while ago, even if it's not ideal. Ironically, it's the smallest bike (a BMX one) that's the most in the way, where they're parked. So, especially for it the simple hook might be adequate.
What I originally thought was a simple project has had complication after complication and is turning into a major one. :smileyfrustrated:
Hey Newf, you were right. The stud finder scanned the studs just fine in deep scan mode (and sometimes partially detected them in normal mode). By far most of the project was just pinpointing the stud to use. The remaining two steps of drilling the pilot hole and installing the hook were really quick and a piece of cake, after that.
The simple bike hook works great, actually, if for no other reason than the small wall section where I installed it. It's such a short section of wall next to the kitchen that the handlebars hang around the right corner into the kitchen (up high out of the way), so they only stick out from the wall half as far as normally would on an all flat section of wall. The only issue was the rear wheel wanted to hang down off the left side sticking out beyond the corner. So I did an easy fix by hooking the seat around the right corner, and moving a bookshelf (that I also needed space for) underneath to ensure the bike doesn't dislodge and slide laterally past the left corner.
I should alternately be able to hang the big heavy bike there, and put the small one in its parking spot, giving more room on that part of the floor. I could also use two more hooks to hang the small one too, horizontally on a different section of wall that doesn't have as much room near the floor. That would leave only one bike parked on the floor, under the small one :smileyhappy:. I'll have to play around with it a little more, but it's already a large improvement.