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Allure Ultra Install Success and transition questions for planned 2nd room.

I recently bought 20 cases of Allure Ultra Vintage Oak Cinnamon. It is to replace old nasty carpet in the dining room and living room. I just yesterday finished the dining room and I can honestly say laying the floor was the easiest part. I will post pics in a second, but it took me longer to rip out the old carpet, patch up shoddy contractor work, and put down quarter round then the flooring. A couple things that helped immensely.


1. Vinyl tile cutter!!! Well worth the $25. I put a piece in to start the cut, then flip it over to finish on the other side. It didn't always make the cleanest pretty cut, but since the cuts are hidden by moulding, who cares. Much easier than using a blade. 


2. Check and re-check your work. Every couple rows, I made sure I didn't miss any gaps. Only once did I have to pull up a couple rows to fix a gap I missed. I can't imagine the frustration of having to rip up more than that to fix a gap I missed. 


3. For long rip cuts, I used another piece of flooring on top of what I was cutting as a straight edge. I held in place with my knee as I cut with a razor. Worked the best for me and made it easy to cut nice straight lines. 


Here are before and after pics.



IMG_20120606_165106.jpgIt was pouring outside, so the lighting isn't great. 


Now for my questions.


1. In the room above, there is a transition from the Allure Ultra to tile. The distance from the top of the Allure to the top of the tile is just under 1/2 inch. Will a floor reducer type moulding cover that large of a distance?? I am planning on trying to find a match and using one of the 5-1 type kits. Unless a better option exists. Here are pics of the transition.

IMG_20120607_100732.jpgIMG_20120607_100740.jpgMy next question is what to do in the living room. It is a townhouse so there is a stairway that leads from the front door and garage to the living room. Here is a pic.


For now I am leaving the stairway carpeted. At the top of the stairway is a small landing and then you turn left and you are in the living room after one more step up. That last step I would like to rid of the carpet but not sure best product to use to make it look "right". I am hoping to find a wood or laminate stair nosing that would transition to the Allure Ultra but without having products in hand at my house, it's hard to figure what will work. I have read through many of the posts and am aware of most the options and using any type of metal is out. I would consider a vinyl nosing, but am hoping to find a wood/laminate option that color matches and the thickness matches up. The 2 products I have found that I hope would work are this same product as above where the Allure slips under the T moulding that would connect it to the nosing of the stair. But not sure if the thickness would line up. is another option, but again not sure if the thickness of the products would line up. 


My last resort is to leave a strip of carpet on the top stair tread and just use a regular transition to the allure. I just think that would look tacky, so trying to avoid. 


My problem is, my local store doesn't have a lot of color options in stock, so that makes it very hard to match. The associates were all extremely nice, yet seemed somewhat unknowledgeable about what they have and could order, etc. 


Looking for any and all suggestions....Thanks!!!!

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Posted 2012-06-07T14:46:21+0000  by athflying athflying

Ok....last question and thanks for all the info. In a last ditch effort to use what I have and not have to cancel my order. What If I used the railing/channel to hold the T-molding  to the reducer and maybe even slapped some liquid nails in there making it all one piece...then use some more liquid nails to secure the now one piece unit to the tile, much like I would have to using the hardwood piece. This would keep the Allure freely floating and possibly solve my dilemma.


In essence I would turn the 3 laminate pieces in to a single piece, much like  the hardwood piece.

Posted 2012-06-07T20:03:05+0000  by athflying

The more I thought about it, the more I like my original idea of using some shims and drilling holes in the Allure to allow it to float. I will buy the supplies and see if it is a "sound" idea. If it doesn't work, then the liquidnails is my backup and as a last resort will go with hardwood. Just tired of looking for a match and doesn't help when the store only has 5-6 colors. 


All this talk about nailing down the Allure though made me think about the step again. You think it is ok to run the Allure to the edge of the stair tread, then nail the aluminum nosing through the Allure to the subfloor? Isn't that anchoring down a section of the flooring??

Posted 2012-06-07T21:28:14+0000  by athflying

Hey athflying,


Jay isn't in today, but I thought I'd chime in and give you my 2 cents on this thread, great and concise know-how so far!


I can see your concerns for each of your options, and going with the 2nd option looks to be the most efficient one in the long run, in my opinion.


You are correct in it having the most work, but the planks would keep its integrity without any worries of buckling. Allure Ultra as a product is very flexible to having other transition options connecting other floors and heights that come in contact with it.  With that said, anytime the floor is altered (or in this case, punctured) you'll be running into not only warranty issues as Jay stated, but possible issues with the floor itself over time. Which is why it would give you a better floor with the 2nd option. 


Luckily for you, you have previous experience in the dining room with long cuts and cutting in general. With that know-how, you can do the scoring. As for the snapping in that area? Score the planks as deep as possible, and then you can use tin-snips to bite into a section at a time. Since its going to be covered, it doesn't have to be to-the-millimeter perfect, as long as you have adequate space to mount the channel to the subfloor directly. Using a good utility knife, carefully measuring the gap where the screws will go, and doing repeated scoring movements is the best method to start out. 


It sounds like you are heading definitely in the right direction. 


Let us know if you have any further questions or comments, and of course, post more after pictures for us on the community to view!




Posted 2012-06-09T19:50:59+0000  by Joseph_HD_ATL

Been trying to post updates, but for some reason the site wasn't working and pics wouldn't go through. I think everything worked out great and we love the floor. Here are some pics. I do have some concern about one area, will post pic below.




As you can see in this last pic, I missed a spot that had a gap. The length of the gap is about 2/3 of a plank. I am concerned it may get worse, but it's smack in the middle of the floor so at this point not going to rip everything up to try and fix. Opinions??

Posted 2012-07-17T14:57:09+0000  by athflying

Good job on the floor - nice and clean work. I especially like how you did the transition going into the kitchen.


As far as the spot goes...That’s a tough one.


The only fix I can think of is to pry off the piece of base shoe on the adjacent wall to that piece, slip the pry bar in between flooring and base and try to push the whole thing together.


It would help if you put a piece of heavy furniture next to it so that floor cannot move past that point.

Just be careful you don’t damage the piece you're prying on.

You may get lucky. If not all you need to do is put the piece of base shoe back.


Don’t use any kind of caulking or anything like that …caulking is going to age differently and in no time is going to draw more attention to that spot than the way it looks right now.


Hope this helps.



Posted 2012-07-17T19:51:01+0000  by George_HD_CHI

If I rip up any moulding, I will just re-lay the floor. At this point just going to wait and see what happens. It's only noticeable to me and I only notice when I clean the floor. If the gap widens, then I will consider re-laying it. I definitley didn't plan on caulking or anything like that. 

Posted 2012-07-17T21:50:15+0000  by athflying

I have a similar issue on transition issue at the stairs.  I plan on keeping carpet because I don't want my dogs sliding down the stairs and hurting themselves.  How do I finish this or fix it or recarpet??  Thanks!!



Posted 2012-08-15T17:21:38+0000  by bablake68

Hi bablake68,


Thanks for your question and welcome to the community!


Your pup looks similar to mine judging from the coat and color:smileyvery-happy:


You most certainly can keep the carpet on the stairs. As for the transition strip to use, you have more than one option. 


At least for the area where the Allure Ultra meets the stair riser, you can use a simple metal stair edge shown below.

MD Stair Edging


This would be the slimmest and easiest transition, due to the fact of the metal can go securely over both the wood stair riser as well as the vinyl floor.


Other stair noses are generally made for real wood or laminate systems, and need to be exactly fitted to match with the existing plank floors. With that said, Allure Ultra (as of yet) has no matching transition strips, so the metal one shown above would be your best bet. 


As for the remaining stair riser, you have lots of choices. You can put matching carpet to that riser IF you have a matching carpet left over somewhere that you can use. Other options are staining the riser to a similar color to the Allure Ultra floor or simply painting it to match the color of the carpet. 


I hope this has helped you out, and let us know if we can be of further assistance.



Posted 2012-08-27T18:16:35+0000  by Joseph_HD_ATL

What did you end up using for the transition strip to the tile?  I have the same issue coming up when I lay my Allure.

Posted 2013-08-26T19:10:17+0000  by JudyFloyd
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