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Behr Premium Plus Venetian Plaster

It has taken me months to decide what to do with my kitchen walls. Due to the age of the home the walls have many blemishes and a smooth finish will not work.  A couple of months ago, a person in the paint dept at HD suggested adding texture to the walls with Litex Premium Finish Wall Texture.  I still have the unopened bag.  Thinking I would finally get the rest of the materials and paint the walls, I went to HD and after speaking with the same person that originally suggested the bag of wall texture, I ended up with a gallon of Behr Premium Plus Venetian Plaster which they added the color I had selected to the Venetian Plaster. She also recommended and I purchased one quart of the Behr Premium Plus Venetian Plaster Top Coat No. 775 Clear Satin.  I had previously primed the walls so when I got home I began applying the Venetian Plaster.

 

I had no intentions of having a smooth surface which is why I thought using a textured finish would work out. I am pleased with the texture of the walls because they do have texture and the blemishes no longer show.  I applied the texture with a trowel and then with a wet rag, added random swirls.  This evening I started with the Top Coat only to find if the wall is not smooth, the Top Coat will puddle and will have a milky appearance.  And that is exactly what is happening.  I am so disappointed as I have used almost all of the Plaster so I cannot return it. I haven't used much of the Top Coat at all as I tried apply it to a 1' x 2' area first just to see how it will look.
 

Is there a different Top Coat I can use or is there a better way to apply the Top Coat other than a trowel.  I have tried using the trowel and then wiping it with a wet rag but it doesn't have a nice sheen to it and still tends to puddle in the crevices.

 

Suggestions please. I can't afford many more $50 experiments.

 

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Posted 2010-11-09T05:16:05+0000  by dkliner dkliner

Just wanted to take a moment and share my Venetian Plaster project. I have been a professional Faux Finisher for over 10 years. I live in Arizona where we do not have smooth walls- we have what's commonly called Hauk & Trowel- skip trowel. I actually like the look of non-smooth walls for many techniques. As you see, the plaster really brings out the beauty of the texture.

 

I did paint 2 coats, red base, troweled on 2 THIN coats of plaster, burnished, 24 hours later, hand applied min-wax and used a microfiber cloth on my hand sander to buff the entire surface. 

 

RE: other posts about colors- I have a working relationship with my paint department at my Home Depot (Nancy is my go-to gal) I go aa soon as they open and she takes the time to work out color tinting with me. 

 

I do use other brands of paint/plater, etc too but sometimes HD is just too darn convenient!IMG_20130729_071714_431.jpg

Posted 2013-07-30T20:28:44+0000  by REarrangesa

"Burnishing" is in fact the act of sanding down the high spots in the texture.  This will result in a smooth shiny finish on those high points but not below in the lower sections.

 

Sometimes I have taken a dark glaze and lightly wiped it over the surface to somewhat amplify those differences in texture.

 

Adding a clear protective coat is advisable after you have achieved the desired results.

 

Post pictures so we can all visualize how it looks.

Posted 2013-06-10T15:47:09+0000  by Kevin_HD_ATL

Greetings - I hope you are still hanging around here and answering questions about VP. I used this product in my bathroom, applying TWICE (meaning, four coats!) as I realized that the variations in my old Victorian bathroom were not creating the pleaseing affect I'd hoped. So I sanded down many of the major imperfections and added more coats (all were thin, and the pattern variation looks nice).

 

  • I just did alight sand by hand with 1500 grit (I found the 600 was leaving light marks, but perhaps that was residue dust that I should have wiped away) - is the 1500 not enough to smooth this out to it's intended result?
  • I'm noticing that the smooth sheen is not present in the areas where there are some level variations - do I need to go back and ensure every bit of surface is sanded?
  • I'm reading conflicting posts about whether or not I need to burnish with the trowel - necessary to cure the product?
  • This process has been going on for weeks in my house - although I just sanded after the most recent coat - is that a problem, as I know the can says to burnish within 7 days.
  • Do I need to apply a top coat in the bathroom? Again, I am reading conflicting reports.

Your advice would be appreciated! 

Posted 2013-06-08T21:16:04+0000  by janedoe

Hello MagTri!

 

Welcome to The Community!

 

As I mentioned earlier in the thread, color matching into Venetian Plaster is a relatively new option.

 

So new, in fact, that many of our Paint Associates may not be aware this option is available.

 

When I recently discovered the option, I tried color matching a medium gray-green and found the color to be fairly accurate.

 

Take time to go back and ask your Paint Associate to look it up in their color match menu.

 

Not all software updates are completed at the same time. But I have seen it and used it at two different stores myself.

 

If it is not available today, it should be in the near future.

 

Come back and share photos of your new VP color once installed!

Posted 2013-02-19T18:40:23+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL

Hello, Based on the great reviews I really want to use the Behr VP on a fireplace/tv accent wall.  The only thing holding me back is the color selection and lack of swatches.   Looks like the Francscan or Limestone might work, but so hard to tell from the brochure what the true color will be.  I was at the store today and was told there is no color matching.  but I do see it referenced a couple of posts ago.  Any words of advice?  At $35 a gallon I don't want to make the wrong decision.  Is the product returnable if I don't like the color or it doesn't show true to the brochure.  Thanks

Posted 2013-02-18T01:13:25+0000  by MagTri

Hello Again Marisa,

 

Attached, you'll find the formulas for both Franciscan and Limestone.

 

The dominant color in both is Raw Umber (LL). This is the tint that adds the grey appearance you're trying to eliminate.

 

Franciscan contains 1/3 ounce of green.

 

Limestone contains 1/10 ounce of blue.

 

You could reduce the green two ways:

1) Reduce the green or blue in the formula; or

2) Add red (we have three red leaning tints) to cancel the green or blue.

 

Since you are moving toward grey, I would suggest adding either Red Oxide (FL) or Brown Oxide (IL) ... FL if you want a less dusky grey or IL if you want a more dusky grey.

 

Small additions would take you down a pathway to dulling the green without turning too dark.

 

A NEW OPTION:

It hasn't been too long since Behr added the option to color match everyday colors into Venetian Plaster.

 

Because this system is not exact, I tend to prefer and recommend color adjustments in Venetian.

 

Unlike color matching into paint bases which is very exact, Venetian color matches typically produce only similar colors ... not perfectly predictable.

 

FINALLY:

Regardless of which method you choose, ask your Paint Associate to start with only fifty-percent of the formula. You can always add color to darken, but if you go too dark you cannot easily make it lighter.

 

 

Posted 2013-02-07T16:16:23+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL

I can understand that I suppose, though it would be nice to add a few colors to the palette. We really like this product, and want to use it again. Since I'm looking for a grey tone can you tell me what colors are mixed to make Franciscan and Limestone? I'd rather it not have a green tone and the samples in the brochure look greenish to me.

Posted 2013-02-06T18:18:12+0000  by MarisaKM

Glad to hear you're considering Venetian Plaster again Marisa!

 

Why are colors limited?

 

Many paint products have a white base for light colors, a medium base for midtones, and a deep base for colors like Navy or Burgundy. Each base is successively darker allowing us to make darker colors without excessive amounts of tint.

 

Venetian Plaster has only one base and as a result can only be made in a few colors.

 

It is not set up for color matching either.

 

So, most frequently your Paint Associate will tell you that the product can only be mixed in the colors offered in the brochure.

 

NOTE: Pro customers periodically request color variations in Venetian Plaster ... colors we discuss at length in a range between two colors from the brochure (not unique colors). Most often we settle on the brochure color, but very infrequently we will make color variations in this product. This is solely based upon the experience level of our Paint Associate as well as our relationship with these Pros.

 

The key for me is knowing the Pro is somewhat flexible within a color range and will not reject the product for being slightly off their imagined color.

 

The key for the Pro is we track modifications and re-label the product exactly as mixed ... allowing them to accurately produce more if/when needed.

 

Like any paint color modifications, we confirm that we will produce a color "similar to" their expectations before we begin.

 

If there is ever any doubt of producing a satisfactory result, we stick to the brochure colors.

 

FINALLY: Modifying a color is among the greatest customer services offered at The Home Depot. It often takes considerable skill as well as time. So, you may be asked to wait during very busy times at The Paint Pit.

Posted 2013-02-05T19:17:26+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL

This was an interesting thread to read. We have used VP before, but it's been a few years, we are planning to use it again in the near future. The color brochure isn't nearly as good as the chips used to be and I've been looking online and haven't found anything as yet. I was told by someone at Home Depot that they couldn't tint it any color except the colors listed, so my question is why?

Posted 2013-02-05T18:10:53+0000  by MarisaKM

Hello Kathy!

 

Outstanding description of your project!!!

 

Because you said, "We purposely left the finish irregular, rather than smooth, as we liked that look," I'm not certain that the puddled clear coat is that big a problem.

 

I personally love VP more textured with trowel marks showing.

 

Here is an example I created, intentionally allowing the clear coat to puddle and build up in the "irregular" trowel ridges.

 

VPSmpl.JPG

 

In my opinion, there is a point of excess ... when puddles turn into runs.

 

But as you can see, the puddled clear coat actually adds more texture to the finish.

 

After I posted this image in an earlier thread, a community member asked about adding an iridescent shimmer to VP.

 

Here is the same example with ML Precious Metals thinned with faux glaze and then applied over the surface.

 

Iridescent.JPG

 

Where light reflects, you can see a distinct iridescent gold shimmer.

 

NOTE: With the one exception that clear coats and other coating can be over-applied until they run, I contend that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. So, go ahead and allow the clear coat to slightly puddle if you want more texture ... or use a lint-free cotton rag to wipe off the excess if you'd rather see a more even clear coat.

 

PRODUCT NOTE: VP is labeled for "interior rooms." However, I repeatedly hear from contractors that burnished VP is a very durable surface. Since you've already applied VP in an "unheated 3-season room," pay particular attention to the surface as the seasons change. If crack lines begin to appear, wait until the temperature goes above fifty-degrees Fahrenheit to apply and then burnish repair material.

Posted 2012-06-19T15:21:18+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL
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