It has taken me months to decide what to do with my kitchen walls. Due to the age of the home the walls have many blemishes and a smooth finish will not work. A couple of months ago, a person in the paint dept at HD suggested adding texture to the walls with Litex Premium Finish Wall Texture. I still have the unopened bag. Thinking I would finally get the rest of the materials and paint the walls, I went to HD and after speaking with the same person that originally suggested the bag of wall texture, I ended up with a gallon of Behr Premium Plus Venetian Plaster which they added the color I had selected to the Venetian Plaster. She also recommended and I purchased one quart of the Behr Premium Plus Venetian Plaster Top Coat No. 775 Clear Satin. I had previously primed the walls so when I got home I began applying the Venetian Plaster.
I had no intentions of having a smooth surface which is why I thought using a textured finish would work out. I am pleased with the texture of the walls because they do have texture and the blemishes no longer show. I applied the texture with a trowel and then with a wet rag, added random swirls. This evening I started with the Top Coat only to find if the wall is not smooth, the Top Coat will puddle and will have a milky appearance. And that is exactly what is happening. I am so disappointed as I have used almost all of the Plaster so I cannot return it. I haven't used much of the Top Coat at all as I tried apply it to a 1' x 2' area first just to see how it will look.
Is there a different Top Coat I can use or is there a better way to apply the Top Coat other than a trowel. I have tried using the trowel and then wiping it with a wet rag but it doesn't have a nice sheen to it and still tends to puddle in the crevices.
Suggestions please. I can't afford many more $50 experiments.
I'm PatInPaint and I reviewed your question with Behr Technical Support and several Social Media team members. We were pleased to learn that you liked the look of the uncoated Venetian Plaster (VP) and the way it covered the imperfections on your wall. However, we were sorry to learn that the small topcoat sample you applied did not improve the project as you had expected.
Behr Technical Support confirmed that the VP Topcoat is similar in viscosity to VP, so they expect it to go on thick. This is why they do not recommend anything other than a trowel and a lint-free rag for application ... a brush my leave stroke marks on the finished coat.
The instruction for Venetian Plaster says, "In high moisture or high traffic areas, apply VP Topcoat." So, if your room is neither of these, you really do not need the topcoat. In practice, I have a number of contractors who love this product because, after curing, it is very durable and they rarely use VP Topcoat.
Here is one more thought to help with that small 1-foot by 2-foot area where you tested VP Topcoat. Although VP Topcoat is not usually sanded or burnished, Behr Technical Support suggested that you use a 400-grit sandpaper to gently remove the thick topcoat and any milky residue in that small area. They also suggested that you wipe off the excess sanding dust with a lint-free rag. This technique should dull the satin finish enough to allow it to blend into the surrounding wall.
Since some of the topcoat is thicker and some thinner, you may have to use sandpaper wrapped around your fingertip to sand those areas. You are not trying to sand the finish completely off, just dull it enough to remove the milky deposits and allow it blends into the surrounding area. Store the remainder of your tinted VP at room temperature in the basement or in the storage area in your garage in case you need to repair or touch-up later.
I have always believed that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. And projects like this are, by design, non-uniform. In other words, everyone will apply their own personal touch and their results will embody their own unique technique.
To demonstrate, I recently made an example of VP for the team here at Social Media and I deliberately applied the topcoat thick to add that aged look in several places. I love this look because it creates another dimension to the wall that gives it character. The random beauty of this product is what makes it appealing. No one has a wall that looks exactly like mine! Also, because it is random there is no such thing as a mistake. A photo of my example is attached.
Finally, my peers and I agree, customer service is a hallmark of both The Home Depot and Behr. So, if you need help with any Behr product, simply contact Behr at 800-854-0133 or your local Home Depot.
Thank you very much for all you did in assisting me and for the helpful information.
I would like to add, I am in Dallas area of Texas so unfortunately, we are not without humidity. In addition, the room I am painting is my kitchen therefore, a topcoat is very important.
I have lightly sanded but it seems to only get worse. I am really curious to find if there is another product I can use as a top coat. I appreciate the customer service # for Behr, I will call them to see what they have to say.
Thank you very much for your time.
KD, one of our newest members of the Social Media Team added a thought for your project and I confirmed the idea with Behr Technical Support.
First, the Behr support team wanted to make certain we understood that their written instructions call for only three types of topcoat: Venetian Plaster Topcoat, water-based paints, and water-based stains.
KD added that a water-based poly might also be used.
Behr support confirmed that this type product should work. They added that VP Topcoat is thick and designed to flow onto the surface, while most other water-based polyurethanes are much thinner. Their point: if you choose an alternative product, keep lint free rags on hand to wipe away excess. The instructions on VP Topcoat cover this point, so you may want to refer back to the label for details.
If you simply want to repair that test spot, sand the topcoat enough to break the gloss and trowel another thin layer of Venetian Plaster over the one-foot by two-foot area. The key word here is thin, to prevent creating a lump. Allow the fresh VP to dry according to the label and then burnish to match the rest of the room. This will give you an even look across the entire room before you proceed.
Please keep us informed about your project.
Just to add my two cents to this discussion (probably all it's worth), I have used Minwax paste finishing wax over Behr's VP before with great results. The one caveat, you will lose some of your color gradient. My primary used of the wax over VP is top coating when using Behr's VP to achieve a marble look (vein lines, cracks, impurities, etc.). Unlike your application, it is usually extremely smooth and flat. Being able to buff it to a shine helps with the look. I have also used it without buffing, but the results aren't nearly as dramatic. Behr's VP topcoat is at best a flat finish. They do not recommend burnishing before application of the topcoat, because it will totally wipe out any work done burnishing.
While Behr's VP can be used to texture a wall (works great for the purpose), it is relatively expensive to use for that task. It is meant to produce a faux venetian plaster look. Behr's Textured Paint (smooth finish) can be used to achieve most of the looks where you might have used VP to do texturing.
I have just completed a Venetian Plaster finish in my kitchen 2 days ago. After the second coat had 24 hours to dry, I used 0000 steel wool to sand smooth, wiped with a tack cloth and used Minwax Finishing Paste to seal (buffed by hand). I love the look (smooth, shine, but not too shiney), however the water spots are showing up if the wall gets the slighest drop on it. I used this same technique in my guest bath with the exception that I also burnished with a steel trowel before the wax and it has proved to be very durable and water-resistant (can even clean with a damp sponge).
Any ideas on what I can do to make my kitchen finish water-resistant as well? Also I noticed in my guest bath the finish is very slick to the touch and my kitchen it is smooth (like a semi-gloss paint finish) but not like the glassy finish in the bath (more like a high gloss paint finish). Could burnishing with the trowel really have made such a difference?
Also in future how do I remove the wax finish before I repaint?
Being that your kitchen is creating water spots, I'm thinking that burning with sand paper doesn't make the lime as strong as burning it with a trowel. It could be that the trowel produces more pressure on the lime plaster which helps compact the lime plaster together. Did you use the same venetian plaster
I am not use to using a top coat. In the past, I have only vp ceilings; but yesterday I venetian plastered the Kitchen with Lowes venetian plaster, burned with a trowel and steal wool, and lightly applied Behr's top coat protector today. (I didn't like Lowes top coat. It was too cloudy. which is why I used Home Depots.) Behr's top coat isn't cloudy or shiny but I feel like the top coat hid all the beauty of the burning eventhough there is just a light layer of the top coat. I haven't waited 24hours for it to dry. Do you think after the protector drys that the venetian plaster will show through better? Or should I burn the top coat, which it says not to do and put min wax on it instead?
Also note that Lowes Venetian plaster said to apply Lowes top coat within 1-4 hours of applying the second layer but Behr's protective top coat said to wait until it is completely dry, which is why I waited 20 hours before applying Behr's protective top coat. Do you think this is why the venetian plaster isn't showing up?
I am a HD Associate on here for the first time AND about to tackle my first, long awaited Behr Venetian Plaster job. I came here looking for hints and suggestions, beyond what is on the can. Will try to add my own ideas and (gasp) mistakes I may learn from and hopefully someone else can benefit. Who knows, I may even figure out to get pics of the job on here. But don't hold your breaths : )
Thanks for joining the Community.
Glad to hear you're about to undertake your first VP project.
Almost every product sold at the Store has a "creative" use or application.
For example, in the thread above you'll note that several different types of top coat have been applied over VP with varying degrees of success.
One of my contractors uses the product regularly and says he would never consider putting a top coat over VP. In his opinion, the product is very durable with the standard application of two coats and doesn't need a top coat.
In my experience, I have used two different trowels to apply the product: 1) a firm edged trowel with a square edge created deeper, rigid marks on the surface, and 2) a floppy, rounded edge trowel made larger, flowing marks on the surface.
You know, Behr spent a considerable amount of time developing the product and the application process. So, it occurs to me that your best resource for "off the label" instruction may actually be thru Behr Technical Support.
Their number is 1-800-854-0133.
They have product specialists who have fielded questions about almost any "off the label" application technique you might imagine. As a result, they would also have heard what didn't work as well as what did.
My best advice to you is to give them a call and rely upon their experience to explore the possibilities.
Be sure to come back and let us know what you create!
Hi,I just bought Behr vp and picked the green color and when i got home I put a small sample on the wall with my finger to see what the color would look like when it was dry and it was totally not the color I chose, so I called the store and they said I could returne it. There are not many choices in colors so I was wondering if I got some more and didn't get it tinted could I do a color wash with a latex paint and create my own look? And if so what would I use to seal it? And by the way I useing it in my kitchen!!
Behr's VP is quite versatile. It can be used as directed to achieve a faux VP look, It can be sanded extremely smooth with many many many thin layers to achieve a marble look. It can also be applied, with or without color to add texture to a surface. Another thing to keep in mind, you're not stuck simply using a single color. You can swirl multiple colors on the wall together while trowelling out or gently fold them together in a separate container before applying. You can also tint your own VP by using universal tint, such as Tints-All. THD might still sell this in some markets or can be found at art supplies or craft stores. (note: it must be universal tint) From memory, Behr's VP will take a fair amount of tint, just have the paint desk associate look at some of the formulas for the darker colors and add up the amount of tint going into that formula to get an idea of how much can be used.
As for water protection, if you're going to use paste wax (Minwax or even car wax products), use a least two to three applications to build up the protective layer. I've always buffed them out to quite a bit of shine to achieve a marble look. In the couple of bathroom applications I've done, the water will simply bead up and run off. A couple of times, over time, there was some visible traces of water spotting, but as it dried they seemed to diminish enough not to be noticeable. Another thin application of wax and buffing took care of the problem.
While it can be used in a bathroom or kitchen (and I have done it with successful results), I find it better suited to low traffic areas like entries or dining rooms.