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Install & Replace

Building basement bathroom

I have the framing complete and the beginning of the plumbing started (I paid a contractor for the plumbing/electrical) but I need to put in drywall before the plumber can finish the plumbing/electrical in the bathroom.  What type of drywall should I use in the bathroom?  I have found mixed reviews online.  Some say to use "greenboard" and others say that regular drywall will work.  Please help...

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Posted 2013-03-05T19:55:10+0000  by shuagray shuagray

Hello Shuagray,


Welcome to the community.


You always want to use green board in a wet location. It has a mold and moisture resistant exterior that is needed in all wet locations.


If you use regular drywall over time you will have a mold issue even if you think it's properly sealed.


So I’m not sure who it telling you that you can use regular drywall but I would not suggest it.


Let me know if you have any other questions. I would love to help.


Thanks again for joining the how to community.

Posted 2013-03-06T16:56:22+0000  by Christine_HD_OC

 Ok, I will be the contrarian here. Where tile is to be hung, you will want cement board as the backer. If mold is of utter concern for other non-shower areas, then the better choice is one of the newer paperless drywalls. Mold feeds off the paper pulp of normal drywall.


As to greenboard: over the years i have run across multiple occasions where the paint was not sticking well to the greenboard. Whatever is used for moisture resistance also seems to repell paint.


I personally would use a good dedicated 100% acrylic primer (not PVA) followed by a premium paint on the regular drywall. Behr's Ultra paint is very good in high humidity areas due to its dense nano particle fortified film.  In addition, ALL BEHR PAINTS  AND PRIMERS INCLUDE A CHEMICAL MILDECIDE.


One word of caution about hanging drywall: it is never a good practice to let the drywall sit directly on the floor. It is CRITICAL when the floor is concrete on grade.. Your 2x4 base plates should also be of pressure treated wood. Drywall in contact with concrete on grade will wick moisture up into the drywall, making it decompose and mold, not to mention any spilled water from the sink or shower!


Hopefully you did not forget to install a good vent. This is vital if a shower is in the bath. Another nice item,  if this is a shower, is a small electric wall heater.


Hope this has helped

Posted 2013-03-06T20:33:16+0000  by ordjen

Another word of caution is to not use green rock for the lids that are framed 24" O.C., especially inside the shower areas.

Years back they use to call for 12 o.c" ceiling framing for the moisture repellant drywall that is getting installed in the moisture prone areas.


Also green rock is not a good choice for water based textures, so if you intend on doing orange peel or knock down -go with the regular drywall instead.


One of the most important details, aside from ordjen capillary break call out, is the transition in between the cement board and the drywall in general.


This is one of the first details you will find to deteriorate in the full sized bathroom.


93.5% contractors tend to butt up cement board directly against the drywall and use regular drywall mud to finish off the transition.  

93.6% of the time that same joint is where the shower walls end and “meet” the “rest” of the bathroom.


Over the course of time, moisture wicks from the cement board into the joint compound and into the drywall itself…

Result is that moldy spot you’ll find on the right hand side of your tub or shower, usually about 2-3‘” from the floor up.


Extend the cement board about 10-12” past the vertical line of the shower or tub base.


Leave a ¼” gap in between drywall and the cement board.


Use Durabond type of hot mud or Thinset for the setting coat.


Install a 70 + CFM bath fan and expect your bath walls and ceiling to last many years to come.



Posted 2013-03-12T19:28:45+0000  by George_HD_CHI
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