I just bought a house and have found I am needing to buy everything at once. So I am trying to learn how to do things myself as much as I can for items that have a 300-500% markup like the bed I love (probably more of a percentage than that actually). So I want to build the bed in the picture (don't care about the orange pillows) but I have no clue where to start, please oh please help me build this bed :).
To clarify I am a beginner so explain the things you would think I would know already because I probably don't (I do know what a hammer is though ha ha).
I'll start working on this write up this week. Hopefully, if all goes well, I should have a post about the construction by next weekend.
Here is what I have so far, which should help you start thinking about the construction and materials.
Unless you have the ability to glue up board to form panels, you're probably going to use sheet goods for the large pieces, like the headboard and side table tops. You're also going to have to think about how you're going to finish the bed; paint or stain. If you decide to go the paint route, you can use either sanded plywood or MDF. If you want to go the stain route, think about oak, birch, maple plywood for the panels. With the minor exception of the 2x4 blocks, the entire rest of the bed could be constructed out of sheet goods.
Whichever direction you decide to take, finishing of the edges of the sheet goods is going to come into play. If you paint and use MDF, you're going to have to prime the boards, especially the edges. This will seal the edge so it will look the same as the broad flat surfaces. Otherwise the paint soaks in at the edges and will look duller than the rest of the piece. Staining will teach you how to use edge banding. Edge banding is used to hide the plys of the plywood, making it look like a solid piece of wood. It is glued in place. The front side of the banding is real wood and on the back is some hot melt glue. You'll use an iron to "press" the banding in place. You would probably want to use banding if you're going to plywood and paint as well. You could also use wood filler, but that's a lot of work with smoothing out the filler and sanding.
Most of the construction is just screwing through pieces and using a countersinking bit and plugs to hide the holes when necessary. If you have something like a Kreg Jig for pocket holes, a lot of the screw holes you'd end up plugging because they're visible can be hidden. Using pocket holes would also be a way to avoid using banding. The Kreg Jig sold by THD is about $100. If that is in the budget or you have one, let me know, because that will change a few things.
Now onto the parts and pieces.
If you didn't want to build the headboard and place the bed up against the wall, you'd need to add an end piece as shown above, or another end section.
These two pictures show one of the sides, you'd build a mirrored pair of these.
As mentioned above, you could skip the headboard and side tables and make two of these sections if you wanted a skirt area all the way around.
This is the support for the two pieces of plywood.
This is half the headboard, you'd build a mirrored pair.
This is just one of the side tables, you'd want to build a mirrored pair of these as well.
That's all the main components. I will edit this post later on with the details of the construction.
This is great, thank you!
I am planning on staining the wood instead of painting. Then with the Kreg Jig I personally do not have one and it is not apart of the budget but I do have neighbors that should have one so I will find one!
Let me make a few tweaks to the design to accomodate pocket holes and we'll get started on a construction write up.
If you do a simple search here on the main page for Kreg Jig, you'll find some examples of what you can do with it. There are also all kinds of videos on YouTube. It will be well worth finding one.
was just about done with the write up when the site gave me an authentication error. back to the drawing board. I will have to write this up offline and copy/paste. sorry for the delay.
No it is okay. Thank you for doing this!
Building the Tokyo Floating Bed
First off, let's talk about materials. The Home Depot typically carries 1x stock and plywood in a few species: white wood (or pine), red oak, poplar and radiata pine (sometimes called select pine). Others are available by special order via the Pro Desk. For staining, your best bet would be either the radiata pine or the red oak. While you can stain poplar, it's wide color variation makes consistent color nearly impossible. White wood, while inexpensive, the attractive price carries with it a vast difference in quality between boards.
When I mention a 1x4 as an example, that is the nominal size. It's actual size is ¾"x3½”. This size difference is accounted for in the plans. When I give a length, that is the size you should cut.
As for plywood, you'll typically see sanded plywood, birch, red oak and possibly maple. The latter three being the most expensive. In this case, we're not depending on the thickness of the plywood for measurements, so it's been generically measured at ¾". Your plywood might be listed at ¾" or 23/32" or possibly in millimeters in the case of some birch or sanded ply. You're going to look for 18mm if that's the case. It's a little bit thinner than ¾", but as I mentioned, we're not worried too much about the thickness of the plywood.
In all cases, measure twice and cut once. When building each section, dry fit all components to mark screw locations and check measurements. If you happen to cut your boards for the foot section, say an 3/16" shorter or longer, you'll have to account for that in the headboard.
Your pocket hole screws are going to be 1¼". The Kreg pocket hole screws are probably going to be your best bet of those sold by THD. Coarse thread for your soft woods like the pine and fine threads for your hardwoods like the oak. Whatever piece is going to have the majority of the thread, that will determine which type thread you'll use. For plywood, you'll want to use coarse thread. The rest of the screws are going to be standard wood screws or drywall screws. The wood screws are going to be stronger, the drywall scews are going to be much cheaper. Either will work.
This site may prove helpful before you begin the actual construction of your bed. Visit your local THD and find the cull lumber cart. Pick up some cheap boards to practice on.
Your pocket hole screws, beyond the hole drilled out with the jig, do not need to be pre-drilled. The rest of your screws will need to have a pilot hole drilled, preferably with a countersinking bit of the appropriate size. You'll need 1¼” or 1-5/8" screws and 2½" screws in a #8 size.
You're going to have to experiment a bit with some scrap pieces to determine what pocket hole size screw you're going to need for attaching two different thickness pieces of wood.
From another site, someone wrote this:
Now when you are choosing which thread you will need to use, it will be determined by the piece you are joining to. For example: if you drilled your holes into a piece of plywood but you are attaching an oak piece you will want to use a fine threaded screw since the majority of the threads will be in the oak piece.
You're also going to need at least 8 corner braces. These will hold the side sections to the foot section and headboard or optional back spacer. Four of these will be 1" and the others will be 2 or 3".
Circular saw, jig saw, pocket hole jig (Kreg K3 or K4 recommended), screw driver, straight edge, clamps, miter box or compound miter saw, countersinking bit, drill, sander and sanding block, sandpaper, pencil, safety glasses and dust mask.
Let's look at the whole piece for a minute. Inspect your wood. Look for imperfections. The best side is the one you're going to want to be visible. Take your pencil and make an 'X' on the other side. The headboard, sides and side table sections are made in pairs and mirrored, meaning you're going to have a left and right side. Take this into account when laying out your best sides and making your cuts, espeically any notches you'll need to cut.
We'll start with the side sections. The process you'll use to build these will be replicated with the foot end section.
Lay your top board down and dry fit everything upside down. Mark your screw holes in the 1x stock 2x stock and drill your pocket holes. Once this is done, you're going to attach the four inch long pieces to the 1x4x80 piece. Next attach this to the top piece.
On the back side of the inside rail, you’re going to attach the 1x2x3½ . They are spaced ¾” apart. Every other one will have screws going through to the 2x4 top support blocks. You should be using the 2½” screws for this.
Foot End Section
The foot end section is constructed the same way as the sides.
This time, though, you’re going to notch each end of the 1x6. This should be 4¾” end from the end of the board and 2” from the bottom. Do this on each end.
Dry fit all the components upside down. Mark your screw holes, both pocket hole and standard. Drill your pocket holes and pilot holes and construct in the same order as you did for the side sections.
(2) 57x28½x¾ plywood
Miter your 1x2s to make the edge band around your plywood. Lay your plywood down on the ground and dry fit your mitered 1x2 around the three sides. Next lay out your 1x4s on top of the plywood and 1x2s. Mark all your pocket hole locations on the plywood (for the 1x2 banding) and on the 1x4s (to each other and the plywood). Assemble your panels first. Next assemble your 1x4s. Now attach the panels to the 1x4 frame. Finally through screw the 2x4 blocks into place.
The blocks are used to give something a bit more solid to attach the side rails to on the front side. Do this a second time for the other headboard section. When you have both sections completed, through screw the two sections together to form the whole.
I haven't included the tables due to lack of time in writing the detail up. I've started a second job that takes time away from doing stuff like this. From the pictures I'm including, you should be able to figure out most of it.
Similar to the headboard, you could edgeband the top of the side tables to hide the plys. Again, you'd do this with 1x2's and pocket holes.
Hope this gives you enough detail to get started. I'll try to check back a bit more often to see if you have questions.