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Covering drywall screws with durabond

I've got a rather large drywall installation project I'm working on, and I'm trying to get the drywall patched up and relatively smooth and ready for painting. The people I hired to install the drywall left a number of screw heads sticking out of the drywall, which I'd like to just cover up.

While I could technically go over the entire project and fix every one of these, I'm in a bit of a time crunch, so I wanted to see if a suggestion my carpenter had made actually makes sense. His suggestion was that I get some Durabond 90 minute and go over all the screws and seams (with tape at the seams, of course), let it dry, then patch over that with drywall mud, to achieve a smooth wall. I know this is time consuming, but going over all these screws is going to take a lot of time, too, especially if I'm ultimately going to just go over it all with Durabond and/or drywall mud.

Is that suggestion of the Durabond a solid idea, or do I absolutely have to go through each one of those screws and fix them? I've had bad luck at not breaking the paper when I drill in drywall screws, so I thought maybe this would be a reasonable solution. Thoughts? Thanks very much!
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Posted 2015-03-10T19:58:40+0000  by sebastions1 sebastions1
Although I haven't used one, they do make a special bit for driving drywall screws:

Should be available at Home Depot.  I've seen them in/around the Pro Desk although you could also look in the tool department or with the drywall tools.

Any gaps between boards are just tapped and mudded as are inside corners.  Outside corners call for corner bead.

Every drywaller has their own preference for mud.  Durabond is a "setting" type compound which means it hardens via a chemical reaction.  It's companion is "Easy Sand" which is also a setting type compound but as it's name implies is much easier to sand (although Durabond is harder).  The advantage to a setting type compound is that you can do multiple coats in a relatively short period of time because the surface will be solid before all the moisture as evaporated.  The working time for both products is about half the number on the package.  So a Durabond 90 has about a 45 minute working time and sets up in about 90-120 minutes under ideal conditions.

For larger projects, I've always used the premixed mud and setting compound for smaller jobs where I wanted multiple coats in a day.

Best Answer

Posted 2015-03-11T12:55:21+0000  by Adam444
If I'm understanding you correctly, your carpenter's suggestion is to essentially skim coat the whole wall?  Not a good idea because, with all due respect, you don't have the skill level necessary to achieve a even coating and smooth wall.  Your walls/ceiling will look lousy and you'll be sanding for the next month.

Go back and drive your screws properly.  If you're using a drywall screwgun and it's over driving the screws, then the nose needs adjustment (read the instruction manual).  If you're using a regular cordless drill slow things down, turn it to the lower speed setting and don't pull the trigger so hard.  If you're using an impact driver, it's the wrong tool for the job.
Posted 2015-03-11T00:13:51+0000  by Adam444
I appreciate the input. I kinda feared that would be the case. Ah, well. I guess I've got some work ahead of me.

I'm using regular drill to screw in the drywall screws and I wondered - is there a screw drillbit that I can use that will basically stop the screws from going in too far? I thought my carpenter had something like that, but I wasn't sure what it was, or if was for something different than a regular drill. I'm using a Dewalt- this one here:

Also, since I do actually have some larger gaps around the project that need to be filled in, is Durabond the way to go for that, and for my corners? I'm not familiar, though I've used joint compound many times.

Thanks again for all your help!
Posted 2015-03-11T01:07:40+0000  by sebastions1
Couldn't agree more sebastions1,

The Drywall Screw Setter is designed to set screws just below the surface of the drywall.

So, in normal installation, you actually want to "break the paper" to "set" the screw slightly below the surface.

This allows you to conceal the screw heads while keeping the surface perfectly smooth.

I also agree with Adam ... skimming the entire wall is a lot of work.

You'll most likely find that a pro will finish the project much more rapidly and maybe even for less.
Posted 2015-08-27T16:56:16+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL
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