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Glazed Over

I've recently spent a ton of money building a custom table out of red oak ply with inlaid black granite tiles in the center.  The table looked AMAZING....until I decided that I was going to Super Glaze it to protect the surface.  I did not glaze the tile (can I?).  However, my main problem is that it is currently over a month later and about 30% of my table is still not dry.  Why?  On top of all that, the glaze has ripples and bubbles, and looks like garbage over that 30%.  How do I save my investment?

 

I followed the directions on the box explicitly.  Further, my table is currently sitting in my dining room drying.  My plan was to just add some more Glaze to even out the surface and call it quits.  Is that a bad plan?

 

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Posted 2011-03-14T16:42:43+0000  by aalicea aalicea

Hey makergirl,

 

Thanks for your question and welcome to the community!

 

I have found that the best thing in your situation is to start over again. You stated you have tried the other options, and removal maybe your best bet here. Epoxy coatings are extremely tough to remove completely if you get the wrong product, but we sell an item in our paint department that works well for getting the glaze off. Shown below, you can apply it with a chip brush and let set for 20-30 minutes, and then scrape off with a plastic chemical-resistant scraper.

Epoxy and Adhesive remover

This will go down to the wood surface, so you'll need to ensure the entire surface is uniform and not uneven in appearance. Be sure to work with chemical-resistant gloves and a well-ventilated area as the semi-paste won't give off as many fumes as liquid strippers, it will still be noticable.

 

After making sure the surface is clean and free of the glaze, you can choose to either reapply another amount carefully or go with another product, such as clear shellac, laquer, or high-quality polyurethane.

 

Let us know if this has helped you out, or if you have any further questions.

 

Regards,

aboveaveragejoe

Posted 2012-05-14T19:12:31+0000  by Joseph_HD_ATL

Hello again allicea,

 

Thanks for your follow-up to coating your table, it's always good to hear other alternatives out there for this kind of project.

 

Regards,

aboveaveragejoe

Posted 2012-05-14T19:15:18+0000  by Joseph_HD_ATL

I have used this product many times, let me give a few simple tips to ensure sucess, the product isnt always the same amount in each bottle, MEASURE the mix dont just assume it is two exactly filled bottles. Never pour or use during wet condtions, high humidity or cold temps below 65, I live in southern California and I use a dehumidifyer in the shop to cure the product over night, mixed properly you will have a glass like finish that is hard as a rock!! Dont do more than one coat per 24 hours and if you do get a bit of sticky surface, like I said make sure condtions are good for a cure (low humidity and mid seventies is perfect) if not you have to create them using the dehumidifyer, give the sticky part 24-48 hours to cure, then coat over it with a PERFECTLY mixed batch, this means stirring it completely and never scrape the sides of your container to get that last bit out, I always pour the resin then use either a good brush or a stir stick to get a level thick coat, you can lay this stuff up in thick coatings but condtions have to be perfect as does the mix (50/50 very well mixed) I have a couple pieces that have almost an inch of resin on them (done in several coats over a week or so), no problem just follow the advice above on codtions and mixing and its pretty easy to get great results.

 Good luck all and good building!

Posted 2013-07-18T12:54:42+0000  by Matt007

DON'T WORRY, your botched Super Glaze project is FIXABLE! I completely messed up my glaze job such that it never dried - half of the project was tacky and the other half was still thick liquid after a week. Then to make it worse I dumped another batch right on top and it looked like mountainous volcanoes and still didn't dry. Thought the project was a goner, but I didn't give up. Here is how I fixed it. It looks FANTASTIC now, you actually can't even tell.

 

Materials: rubbing alcohol, paper towels, popsicle stick (or similar tool), more Super Glaze

 

1. Get the surface dry.

 

- For parts that are solid but tacky: Press down hard with a paper towel so some of the paper sticks to the tackiness (it will look horrible but it's ok it will come off). Then rub the area hard with rubbing alcohol using another paper towel. Repeat until the area is clean and mostly dry. You should be able to run your finger over it lightly without your finger getting sticky. Make sure no pieces of paper towel are left on the surface.

 

- For parts that are still liquid: Use a popsicle stick other tool to dig out the liquid and remove it from the project. This is time consuming but it will work. It's ok if there is a gross tacky layer at the bottom, you only need to remove the liquid portions. It's ok if there are large chunks missing. If the liquid is underneath a solid layer with holes in it, push down on the surface so the liquid exits the holes and remove the liquid. Clean all areas with rubbing alcohol and paper towels until dry and clean. You should be able to run your finger over it lightly without your finger getting sticky. Make sure no pieces of paper towel are left on the surface.

 

- For parts that did try: Rub lightly with rubbing alcohol.

 

2. READ THE DIRECTIONS for Super Glaze and make sure you have proper working conditions (70's temperature IS important). Create a small batch of Super Glaze following the directions exactly except stir more (I stirred for 6 min, then 6 min, instead of 3 and 3).

 

3. Apply one coat of Super Glaze to the portions that were messed up. Let it set. If any portions are still liquid or tacky (likely due to remaining liquid underneath), repeat the process.

 

4. Once everything is solid glaze (finally!), apply one last coat of Super Glaze just to make the surface even on the top.

 

Good luck!

 

Posted 2014-01-03T13:23:13+0000  by erinbear13
I just finished a beer cap table with resin to cover. First a round table w 4 chair took 2 gallons and 2 quart to finish so it was expensive. The last batch was sticky and didn't mix right. I think my chemical ratio was off because I let containers drip to get last of it instead of making sure it was half and half. The alcohol and paper towel trick mentioned above did get rid of the sticky area but it left the table very cloudy. I tried every chemical I could think of and a torch and sand paper to fix cloudy area. After days of doing so it just worse or same. Best of those was Windex and a sand paper square sponge wet. Still cloudy but helped with burn marks from my torch. Eventually it led to another quart of glaze. When I poured it all the cloudiness magically went away.I was so excited. So to sum it up if stick area chemicals didnt cure correctly and it will stay sticky and not dry. Don't put any chemicals on it. STEP AWAY. After cure time find sticky areas by touch and add layer of glaze smoothing as much as possible.

If you are doing a beer cap table, table edge of table with painters tape. It will peel right off afterwards. You dont have to glue down eachcap. It's a waste of time. Just use the glaze/resin. There will be some slight shifting in caps. Move them back in place with stirring stick. Also air bubbles will cause caps to float up. Just push back down w stir stick for a sec and do mame with caps near it and wait for bubble to surface. Check again in a couple minutes because other caps float up. The whole glazing process worked better w dimmer lighting and a separate light source that causes a glare across the surface such as a tv or in direct light. This will make it easier to see where you need to smooth area. I used an old empty gift card for smoothing. You only have about 15 minutes to move it around then hopefully gravity will help the rest. As it gets thicker use lighter touch w card and not pressing too hard or deep in glaze.
Posted 2015-07-12T18:27:21+0000  by Kpearl76
WOW Kpearl!

Outstanding instruction ... often the details make the difference and you've nailed the process.

Great addition to the thread!

If you have time, take a few photos and post them here as well.

A picture really is worth a thousand words!

NOTE:
Whenever I instruct DIY application of Glaze, I encourage two keys:

1) Thoroughly mixing catalyst and glaze using very slow strokes to prevent air bubbles; and

2) Use a leveling tool to ensure the working surface (ex. table top) is level before pouring glaze.

This prevents one side from finishing thicker, which often occurs when the working surface is not level.
Posted 2015-07-14T16:33:10+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL
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