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Glidden Porch and floor vs cabinet transformations

I am redoing some very old very nice thick wod cabinets in the kitchen. Stripping is not an option. the current finish is a faux finish of golden paint and splatters. the splatters are a ting bit raised.

My question: Am i better going with the :

1.Glidden Floor an porch for self leveling thick no brush stroke finish or

2. Cabinet Restorations- water based easier ( I am not using gloss)

 

I want to fully cover this hideous paint job and level out the imperfections. I also want the most professional job possible. 

 

Which one do you suggest? Is the Gliden really smelly and carcinagenic?

 

Thanks.........Audrey

 

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Posted 2012-02-13T19:26:46+0000  by bonshire bonshire
 

Hi Audrey

 

This is the kind of dilemma that calls for a comparison of apples and oranges…

                                        apples-and-oranges-300x225.jpg

First and foremost – there is nothing other than a thick texture paint that will level out a surface that has even the slightest raised design on it.  You will have to either sand the raised areas down or patch over them to level out the surface.

 

Application Techniques:

 

Oil based paint (apples):  Traditionally this was the coating of choice whenever cabinets were refinished in the past.  It tended to dry harder and withstood years of abuse.  The odor was very offensive, it took days to dry and cure before use, and the mess was hard to maintain.  Not to mention having to sand down the surface and apply a separate prime coat.

 

Cabinet Transformations by Rust-Oleum (oranges):  Preparation involves having to wipe down the surface with de-glosser (provided) and remove any hardware.  Painting the base coat is fast and has very little odor to speak of.  Most of the time, you will be able to apply two coats within just a few hours.  The only amount of skill required will be in applying the glaze coat (if desired).  One person should do this step because application techniques will vary and it might be noticeable.  Finish with the clear top coat and you will be using your kitchen again within a few hours.

 

…so I am a little bias. I have done both applications several times and can truly appreciate the amount of time Rust-Oleum has saved on a project of this size and magnitude.

 

We have a huge thread on the community that addresses the Cabinet Transformations application.

 

Hope this helps.

Posted 2012-02-13T20:26:38+0000  by Kevin_HD_ATL

Great Question Audrey!

 

Kevin got it just right when he said Apples and Oranges ... these products are polar opposites.

 

However, your primary goal appears to be eliminating the raised texture of the faux finish. So, no matter which you choose you'll have to use 220-grit sandpaper to remove the texture before you begin.

 

A Little More Definition:

 

1) Although the oil-based paint self-levels, it will not reduce the existing texture ... you must sand; and

2) Although the transformation kit contains liquid sandpaper, it will not be enough to reduce the existing texture ... you must sand.

 

Finally, you also question whether the oil-based product has a lot of odor ... it does.

This product produces the most durable, cleanable finish ... that is why most factory finishes are solvent-based.

The fact that it levels as it dries will give you "the most professional job possible."

However, if you are concerned about using products that are "really smelly," the oil is not for you.

 

NOTE: If you want the most durable, professional job without the smell, you might choose the oil and then leave the job to a contractor while you take a weekend trip. The odor will linger for several hours after application, but should diminish and the end result will meet your quality expectations as well.

Posted 2012-02-14T13:19:05+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL

 

Alas, there is no magic bullet if quality results is desired, The splatter texture has to go! Unfortunately, if the existing finish is latex based, sanding is very difficult. Latex paint usually just clogs the sandpaper and peels up in gummy little flakes.

 

If a remote work area, such as a garage is available, it is best to remove the doors and take them outside where the dust of sanding and the fumes from oil are out of the living area. Obviously, a warm garage is neccessary for the painting. Cool,damp conditions aren't good for any type of paint., especially oils which become very thick and no longer flow out.

 

When using oil paints, if you have a gas cooking range, you will find that the fumes interact with the open flame to produce an even more objectionable odor. It is definitely a night for McDonald's when using oil in your house! Such projects are best left for times of the year when the windows can be left open.

Posted 2012-02-14T18:33:05+0000  by ordjen

 

I should further state that in the past when I had heavy textures to deal with from past poor paint jobs, I would give the doors a heavy coat  of oil based enamel undercoating after a good sanding. The heavy build of the undercoated did much to hide past "ropey" texture from past latex paint jobs. A final coat of a satin finish oil paint , as opposed to high gloss, further hides past texture.

Posted 2012-02-14T18:40:13+0000  by ordjen
 
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