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Help! Trying to fix Blue Tape & paint disaster

Any help you can offer will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!


We used some Blue tape in painting the wall and the ceiling and waited too long to remove the tape and it pulled the paint off the wall and ceiling and what a mess. So we tried compound, primer & sanding it down and repainting but the results are not  completely successful.


Please advise how to get this where it needs to be without painting the entire ceiling.



The 1st picture here is the area we fixed in the Living Rm. Here with the repair  the ceiling paint has not blended in.  The original ceiling paint is only one month old. So we did use the exact same unused  paint from the can. We did the compound, sanding and paint just  2 days ago and this is the result. You can clearly see the streaks and spots that did not blend in., What can we do now to get this better? We do not want to paint the whole ceiling again It spans into multiple concept.2013-04-22 17.13.34.jpg



In this 2nd pic (below)...this is the Bedroom.  Same problem on the ceiling but here the problem as you can see is also the repair & repainting on the beige wall and the beige color not blending in.  The ceiling here just painted a month ago and the wall  just painted a week ago with 2 full coats...then the repair  and I do not want to have to do another coat that will make the whole color darker.  How do I get the beige to blend  in? You can see the difference in color in the repair area, seems lighter streaks.....


ALSO in the bedroom (walls have Satin paint) we had a couple of areas we sanded down due to imperfections and they show because the walls are Orange peel and the sanded areas are now there anything we can do?

2013-04-22 17.14.43.jpg


and 3rd pic (below) ..what is going to be the best way to cover these picture hanger nail holes...this wall was painted last week . Once again we need to sand  and it is Satin paint,Orange peel. The sanding like the bedroom wall will make the area smooth and stand out.  Help!

2013-04-22 17.50.07.jpg

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Posted 2013-04-22T22:06:47+0000  by city city

Hello City!


1) Why don't we take the last question first ... how to repair nailholes without smoothing the walls.


Because sheet rock mud or spackle is water-based, you really don't need to sand ... at least with sandpaper.



Lightly dampen a tile sponge in a bucket for fresh, clean water.


Wipe over the nail hole repair until the spackle re-wets and begins coming off onto the sponge.


Regularly rinse and wring out your sponge to remove the spackle and go back to the wall with your clean, damp sponge until you remove spackle from the surface of the wall ... leaving spackle only inside the nail hole.


I have used this technique for years and my walls have none of those two-inch spackle circles under the paint ... just very tiny spot repairs directly inside the old nail holes.


2) Now let's take you first question ... the repair is not blended in.


What I see in your photo appears to be a repair that was not primed.


Spackle or sheet rock mud absorbs a considerable amount of paint unprimed.


As you continue coating with paint, you'll eventually "fill and seal" the surface.


But the most direct way to even the finish is to prime first and then blend paint "feathering" the transition as your brush runs out of paint.


3) Finally, you said, "the sanded areas are now smooth." But you want the repair to match the existing orange peel texture on the walls and ceiling.


a) Orange peel texture can be made by painting with longer nap roller covers (1/2 nap for lighter texture or 3/4 nap for more texture).


The longer nap extends as you roll and pulls at the wet paint, making texture. Paint that is partially dry is much easier to texturize using this technique.


b) You might also create texture while the spackle or sheet rock mud repair is slightly damp.


Use a stippling motion (up and down) with a brush to pull at the slightly damp repair.


This is an art project and you can use a brush or any tool necessary to texturize the surface.



Whether texturizing with paint or spackle, always experiment with several different tools and techniques until you discover an acceptable match.

Posted 2013-04-23T15:08:27+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL


for questiion #1  we did prime ..we tried


Klitz 2 Latex Primer  All Purpose


still no luck


is there a better primer we should try?



Posted 2013-04-23T15:51:12+0000  by city

thanks for your other suggestions!

Posted 2013-04-23T16:12:22+0000  by city

No City!


On your application, Kilz2 should be fine.


You might try priming over the problem area and then painting two coats.


Once the surface is sealed (with primer) the surface coat should lay down evenly.

Posted 2013-04-23T16:37:12+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL

PatinPaint and everyone

Question #2 and #3  - solved thanks!



Still problems with Question #1. 

The first time we did use the Klitz2 luck....We did the  primer and feathered the paint...2 coats still no luck. 


At the paint store they rcommended XIM UMA Urethane Modified Acrylic Primer/Sealer Bonder  so we tried it.  Here is the pic now of how it looks. very frustrating that things are not working ....Suggestions Please....Thanks2013-04-28 15.53.11.jpg2013-04-28 15.53.42.jpg

Posted 2013-04-29T14:01:23+0000  by city

Hi City.  I am sorry for your frustration...:smileysad:


One more hat to throw in here - I may have another angle on the situation.


One thing that could be causing the effect you see up on the ceiling is due to several layers of paint confined in one area.  Every time a textured surface is painted the span between the tiny textures become slightly filled up.  Layer by layer in a specific area will change the actual depth of the texture and thus - amplify the differences.


Solution: unfortunately, painting the untouched part of the ceiling once and then an additional coat on the whole thing should lessen the effect.


The other possible cause is due to the ceiling possibly having a sheen to it (can't tell with the pics).  Most ceilings are painted with a "dead" flat ceiling paint that is designed to eliminate any light from reflecting off the surface.  With higher sheen paints (like eggshell, satin, semi-gloss) every time a new layer of paint is added - a slightly higher sheen is noticed on that layer.  So in essence you might be seeing the difference in the touched up section vs. the rest.


Solution: unfortunately again, :smileyfrustrated: I would suggest painting the ceiling with a flat ceiling paint like thec BEHR ULTRA eiling paint.  It will act as a primer over the existing surfaces and lay out with a consistent glow (not a shine).


1-Gal. Ultra Pure White Ceiling Paint

Once again, I am so sorry for your experience - please don't give up.

Posted 2013-04-29T17:14:22+0000  by Kevin_HD_ATL
It is a flat paint. No sheen at all.
Behr Premium Plus Ceiling Paint. interior Flat
Posted 2013-04-30T01:10:52+0000  by city

Hello Again City!


Glad to learn of your success on two of the three issues.


Thanks for the photos!


While it appears a bit better, the uneven coverage and failure of the paint to blend appears to be classic "flashing."


This can occur several ways, but the core problem is uneven porosity of the surface(s).


Causes include:

1) Paint which is not well mixed;

2) Uneven application with an old or unclean roller cover;

3) Priming that does not seal the surface;

4) Application of paint over either paint or primer that is not completely dry; and

5) Application of thin, veiled coats of either paint or primer.


Solutions include:

1) Taking your paint and primer back to the store for mixing ... to ensure solids are fully mixed and evenly distributed;

2) Use a better quality, new 3/8 nap roller cover;

3) Priming the entire surface to create an even seal over the entire surface;

4) Allowing sheetrock patch, primer, and paint to fully dry (two-hours for each coat of primer and four-hours for paint or patch);

5) Keeping your roller cover saturated and using long, flowing strokes with about 1/2-inch overlap between strokes.


Flashing can be difficult to overcome.


I have customers who report using between five and seven coats of paint to completely cover repairs.



Unfortunately, as Kevin suggest, there are very few quick fixes when painting.

I have used Behr Ultra Ceiling Paint and had good results sealing new sheetrock with two thick coats applied one day apart. The keywords here are "two thick coats" and "one day apart."



Although I do not use the product often, BIN shellac-based primer has a reputation for sealing new sheetrock and repairs. The product is very sticky, so you may have to change roller covers several times to prevent pulling nap off the roller cover and onto the ceiling.



Uneven porosity is the main problem you must overcome.

An even coat of primer over the entire ceiling may be the only way to even the porosity across both the existing ceiling and the repair.


Please follow up and let us know how your solve this problem.

Posted 2013-04-30T14:05:22+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL
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