I am redoing my kids room in a Star Wars theme and when I went to go get a grey paint I saw the Precious Metals paint by Martha Stewart. What better paint for a room that is to look like it is from outer space :-) I primed the walls first and have now done 2 coats of Mirror Glass paint color. BUT I'm not happy with all the roller marks that I can see. The person at my home depot paint departement, said that I should not need a special roller head... is that true? Now googling and looking at remarks for the Ralph Lauren version, I see I should do a complete floor to ceiling roll... will that really help?
Any other ideas or tips I could apply?
Even though that type of embossed paper does not need to be primed I am going to assume that the paper is white? If so, white is a tough one to cover, especially when using a paint with metal in it. The Precious Metals are a bit shear. It is a thick paint, but the pigment itself is shear which means coverage is tricky. If you are going for a tin ceiling look I would suggest a dark grey paint color first. The metal paint looks best when it has perceived "body" and depth and a darker color provides a deep base for the metal to float over. It should also help in eliminating the roller edges that make the paint look streaky. Shear paints are see-through and where the paint overlaps or is built up more the paint isn't as see through so the roller lines stand out. A foam roller doesn't seem to build up paint on the roller ends as much as a traditional roller. The foam roller also helps when you try to "erase" excess paint lines since it has the ability to soak up paint a bit more than a regular roller. Starting with a dark or deeper base will also require less metal paint. I did notice that, after applying a dark shade, three coats of the metal (I was sponging) made the color look much richer and truer to the sample card. Hope this helps.
I'm trying to paint my kitchen ceiling (over 200 sq ft) with Tin from Martha's Precious Metals range. I put up textured wallpaper to go for the tin ceiling look. I didn't prime as the associate said it wasn't necessary. I'm using Martha's rollers.
It's streaky and doesn't look great. It's hard to maintain one long stroke, since I'm painting over my head on a ladder. When I load up the roller, it's hard to get even coverage. And I like the look the best when the roller doesn't have a lot of paint on it.
So any suggestions, or helpful advice for painting a ceiling would be much appreciated.
Outstanding Instruction studiomom!
DIY is so fulfilling when you select an approach, apply the technique, and produce a final result that meets or exceeds your expectations.
The detail in your post is exactly why forums like The Community exist ... sharing "How To" knowledge.
Thanks for adding your success story to the thread!
I have had great results with Precious Metals. After I repaired and primed the walls I painted a color similar to the Precious Metal only slightly darker. Our old house has framed moldings on the walls so I chose the metal paint for the inside of those panels. I used a small 3" foam roller to apply the first coat. I worked in small strokes which crisscrossed each other (so roller edges disappeared). I found the metal finish a bit flat and crafty looking so I decided the surface would look better broken up. After all, I wasn't trying to achieve a sleek, flawless metallic appliance look. I think it was the shiny feedback of metal areas that were too large which became distracting and patchy looking. I used a large natural sponge for the next two coats. I modeled the surface by pouncing with the sponge so that the texture of the sponge would not be evident at all and the surface was only slightly affected. Breaking up the surface of the Precious Metals made the paint look much richer, which is a nice look for our old(Pre-Civil War) house. As a painter (fine art and scenic) I have learned that metallic paints tend to be shear (as some colors are) and it can be frustrating. Layering builds a richer looking surface. Hope this helps. I am thrilled with the look. The texture of the surface is similar to a slightly pebbled leather look.
Sorry to learn you're having difficulty Coloradogirl!
Craft product may be used in multiple ways to generate varied appearance.
In your case, you used ML Specialty Glaze "Copper Penny" full strength and "got a nice, smooth finish where I brushed."
Using the off-brand extender mixed four-to-one with the same product resulted in your "cut-in looking like a box, drag marks from the roller (3/8th nap, shed resistant), and lines showing the roller over the whole wall."
Let's see if we can get you on a path to success!
Based upon your success with the full strength specialty glaze, I am going to recommend this for the whole project.
Next, you'll want to use the six-inch white foam roller ... the smoothest roller we sell.
Saturate the roller cover and then set it aside for about two-minutes before beginning.
Cut-in only as much wall as you can complete before the glaze dries ... this is called "working to a wet edge."
Wet edges blend together and become one smooth surface.
Painting over dry cut-in leaves a hard transition line known as a "high hat" ... the "box" you created with your earlier attempt is a perfect example of high hat.
Re-fill the roller cover regularly and paint an area about as wide as your body.
Before moving over use "smoothing strokes" to eliminate the roller "drag marks."
Without going back to the tray, place your roller in the cut-in at the top of the wall and pull the roller all the way to the cut-in at the bottom of the wall. Repeat these smoothing strokes by overlapping about 1/2-inch until you have smoothed the area just filled with glaze.
DO NOT re-roll or touch the just-completed area again ... simply move over and begin filling the next section of wall (about as wide as your body) and then execute smoothing strokes.
If you must take a break, stop exactly in the corner.
Stopping in the middle of a wall will create another high hat.
Investing in a special look to enhance your decor is everyone's vision when painting.
In some cases, the cost will be significant and the project will take special care as well as time.
Stay committed to your vision and simply look past the flaws in your first attempt.
If you can see texture from the earlier attempt, lightly sand with 220-grit paper before beginning.
Use full strength glaze, the white foam roller, and the application techniques described here, and you should get the same great results you got from your four-inch sample.
When done, make certain to post a photo so we can share your success!
PRODUCTS ARE NOT EQUAL:
ML Specialty Glaze and ML Precious Metals are not equivalent products.
So, while you may use both on the same wall, they will result in distinctly difference appearance.
I just read through the thread, because I am experiencing tremendous problems with this MS Precious Metals glaze in Copper Penny. I want an accent wall in the kitchen in a smooth copper finish, and purchased a 10 oz jar to test. I had the wall primed and painted in a base coat of a copper colored, (not metallic) latex satin. The next day, I tested the ML Precious Metals glaze in an 4 inch area that will be behind cabinets and got a nice smooth finish where I brushed. So I went back to the store and the HD paint clerk offered to make up a quart of MS precious Metals paint, which would save me some money over buying more of the small 10 jars of glaze. After testing that next to the original I saw that it was more like a rose gold, and not close to the color of the original glaze with too much red. I also noticed that the paint was thinner than the original glaze. I took that back to the store, and the clerk was unable to adjust the coloration to match the original glaze at all. Luckily, he gave me my money back on the quart. I purchased 5 of the 10 oz glaze jars and poured 4 into the roller tray. Because this is so thick, I added a flow leveling additive that I have on hand (from Sherwin Williams), "XIM Latex X-tender" approximately 4 oz and mixed well. We rolled lightly, using a 3/8 inch nap "shed resistant" roller, keeping the roller wet.
The result is the "box" look from cutting in, drag marks from the roller, and the lines showing the roller over the whole wall. 8 hours later, it is still tacky to touch. My husband is fit to be tied, due to the expense and the poor results.
Do we try a second coat after a full 24 hours? I have two unopened jars, and approximately 1 jar left in the (covered) rolling tray. I read in previous posts about thinning this glaze product with another product. Do I need to sand out the drag marks from the roller? Do I use a smoother roller?
Christine is away for a day or two, so I'm picking up the thread.
When "trying to achieve the dented look" from the paint sample, use the Martha Living Specialty roller cover for metallic paint.
I describe this roller cover as a "shag rug" because the nap does not loop back to the roller ... rather it is cut about 1/2-inch long so it extends like a shag rug.
When wet, the extended nap pulls at the surface as you roll and helps create the "dented look" you describe.
The best tips I could give for attaining that look include:
1) Thoroughly wet the roller cover and allow it to sit on the edge of the tray for at least 2-minutes before painting;
2) Keep the roller cover saturate with paint while applying; and
3) The swirling emulsion in this paint helps create that dented look, so use a thicker layer for more texture.
Here is a video I made for another Community Member that shows "How To" create both smooth and textured surfaces.
Thanks for joining The Community and sharing your questions and expertise!
Thanks Christine, but I gave up. I have only a 1/4 of gallon left and it would not be enough to cover the whole area. What I was trying to acieve is that dented look, like the one on the paint sample card.
Very tricky paint, IMHO.