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Help with Martha Stewart Precious Metals Paint

I am redoing my kids room in a Star Wars theme and when I went to go get a grey paint I saw the Precious Metals paint by Martha Stewart. What better paint for a room that is to look like it is from outer space :-)  I primed the walls first and have now done 2 coats of Mirror Glass paint color. BUT I'm not happy with all the roller marks that I can see. The person at my home depot paint departement, said that I should not need a special roller head... is that true? Now googling and looking at remarks for the Ralph Lauren version, I see I should do a complete floor to ceiling roll... will that really help?


Any other ideas or tips I could apply?

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Posted 2011-04-01T17:18:34+0000  by flipper flipper

Agree with previous posters, this paint should be pulled from the shelves or specific warnings posted on its use. It seems like it might be great for accent stripes or 2x2 pieces of drywall as demonstrated by HD specialists, but this paint should never be used to paint a wall or ceiling. There is simply no possible way to avoid horrid lap marks that completely ruin the effect  of a metallic finish.


I have considerable experience in "specialty" finishes and expected a steep learning curve with this product. I had mastered the Ralph Lauren metallic line carried previously by HD by thinning the product considerably for the final coat, ensuring to roll from top down the entire length of the wall. That trick had no impact on this stuff...I thought perhaps it was just the "silver leaf" color was especially difficult...but I doubt it based on all the rants I see cropping up about these finishes.  After 3 gal & $140 worh of paint. tools etc...I have thrown in the towel on this product and am on a crusade to warn others. I primed everything, used 3/8, 1/4 nap, foam, etc...I put it on thick, thin and in between. The only thing that ever looked right were the window frame & wall corners where I used a brush.


DO NOT waste your time or money on this product. Buy a standard paint product and glaze it if you want a metallic look.

Posted 2011-09-21T06:38:02+0000  by meman

We are thinking of using the Tin Precious Metal paint on the inside of our vintage aluminum camper. We have read all the tales of woe from the brush or roller leaving marks in the paint. Spraying might be the answer, but you can't spray in a camper without making such a cloud you'd die.


What I was thinking about doing is painting with a roller and making sure to get lots of paint on the wall. At least do 2 coats, if not three. Then treating it like a car and wet sanding it to remove the roller or brush marks and get a smooth finish. Anyone tried that?


I do not want to buy a $50+ can of paint to experiment and find out the plan is a failure.


-Tim in TN

Posted 2011-10-17T19:16:41+0000  by Swanky

Hey Tim,


The idea is OK, but there is certainly a better solution that should produce a very similar appearance on your walls.


Rust-Oleum Oil-based Aluminum Gloss is likely the best product for your surface. It should produce a shiny (gloss) finish on the walls and will be much more durable than ML Precious Metals.




Preceding this product, you would clean the surface using a phosphoric etcher and follow that with Rust-Oleum Clean Metal Primer. A description of the process is included in an earlier thread about painting metal roofs. Click here to read instructions for preparing your surface.


As for ML Precious Metals, it does not carry an exterior rating and although you are painting inside the trailer, I would be concerned about both proper adhesion and the surface failing when exposed to broad swings in temperature.


Hope this helps, and thanks for shopping at The Home Depot.

Posted 2011-10-18T10:19:44+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL

Thanks for the quick response!


Just so you know, the inside of the trailer is already painted. We'll be primering first for sure as we have no idea what type of paint it is.


Your suggestions sound good. Thanks for the info!



Posted 2011-10-18T13:27:34+0000  by Swanky

Hey Tim,


Thanks for joining us on The Community!


If that pre-painted surface has a gloss, you should buff sand before priming.


A 600-grit wet sandpaper will do the job ... and you'll only want to break the gloss, not sand all the way down to the metal.


I would consider using a HVLP sprayer. It will produce an outstanding, smooth finish.


When you're done, post a photo and include any details that improved the project!

Posted 2011-10-18T13:37:24+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL



I have a question about Precious Metal Paint.


I'm trying to paint the furniture with Precious Metal Paint (I already bought it...). I asked at the store and the girl at the Paint department told me to use the water-based primer with this product, and I already did 1 coat with water-based primer. 


My questions are:


  • Isn't latex or oil based primer better for the furniture?
  • Can I do a coat with latex primer on top of water-based primer or should I sand again...?
  • Can Precious Metal Paint be used with any primer? Or is this water-based primer only? If so, do you have any suggestions on the top coating so that the furniture doesn't get ruined?

Thanks soooo much!!!

Posted 2011-10-31T19:05:43+0000  by o2cleaned

Hello o2cleaned!


Thanks for the call out!


Sounds like a great project!


Water-based primer often dries quickly and can leave brush marks. So sanding before you apply Martha Living Precious Metals is not a bad idea at all ... but is certainly not necessary either. I would look at the piece and decide whether to sand based upon how smooth the primer finishes.


The Paint Associate at your store told you exactly what the product label calls for ... a latex primer.


Since the label calls for a latex primer, I would be certain that your primer has those words on the label. Kilz 2 uses the word latex to describe the product, so if that is your primer then you should be fine.


I love oil-based primer because they finish so smooth and they grip almost any surface without sanding. However, in this case, I wouldn't use an oil-based primer.


Finally, the clear coat should be Polycrylic ... a water-based surface protector. The oil-based clear coats are not made to cover water-based finishes. Polycrylic is labeled to cover both water-based and oil-based finishes.


NOTE: Martha Living Precious Metals is a unique product when it comes to drying time. The label says wait 24-hours between coats. I would wait 24-hours after the final coat to begin applying your clear coat.

Posted 2011-11-01T12:51:44+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL

Hi PatInPaint,


The primer I used is Zinsser Bulls Eye 123 and it wasn't Kilz2 - do you think it would work?


After seeing the primers dry, I will need to sand again. I'll take a look at the coating you recommended when I'm done painting (and waiting for it to dry).


But thanks so much for all the info. I feel much better now!!!

Posted 2011-11-01T16:11:23+0000  by o2cleaned

Hello Again 02cleaned!


You are outstanding with that product!


Zinsser 123 is considered a "latex" primer and I recommend it frequently for projects just like yours.


In fact, almost every paint or primer that instructs you to, "Clean up with soap and water" is considered latex.


Martha Living Precious Metals is considered a semi-gloss coating. You'll have the option of choosing a gloss, semi-gloss, or satin Polycrylic. So you'll be able to choose the same sheen, as well as more or less sheen when you clear coat your furniture.


I'm pleased you got what you needed, and I hope you'll come back and share you finished piece with photos ... you might also have hints for us on how to obtain the smoothest base coat (primer).

Posted 2011-11-01T16:39:11+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL

Thanks so much!!! It's really great to know you're there and help me with my project like your own!!! Now I can keep working without worries. I'll try and upload the pic when it's done and report back my finding... :smileyhappy:


Posted 2011-11-01T18:16:26+0000  by o2cleaned
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