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How do I fix...

So I have a wooden table that I disassembled, sanded and primed with an oil base primer tinted grey-ish... I made sure the surface of the paint was no longer tacky and began painting the table with a black high gloss acrylic paint that was recommended to me by a paint technician at HD, when I started priming I used a high quality foam roller and everything came out nicely, but when I started painting today, using a brand new high quality foam roller and the paint looks like I used a sponge technique... Is there anything I can do besides strip, sanding down and starting from scratch to get the nice smooth finish I was hoping for? HELP!?
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Posted 2012-06-13T02:15:06+0000  by Grace3824 Grace3824




I have long cautioned against the use of acrylic paints on furniture, especially furniture upon which things will be set, be it a dish or human arms. Acrylic paints do not dry to a hard finish. They retain a gummy feel to them which is worse in humid weather. Further, acrylics do not flow out as well as do oil paints. Their drying and setting time is just too quick. 


Oil paints dry to a hard finish. they lack that gummy feel of the acrylics. Their slower drying and setting times allow the paint to flow out and level itself.


What to do now? Short of starting completely over, I would suggest that you scuff sand the acrylic paint as best you can. Acrylic paints do not sand well due to that gummy quality I alluded to above. I would then reprime the finish with your gray oil primer. After dry, give it a good sanding  with fine sandpaper. This should help to reduce the dimply texture left by the foam roller.


Finish coat with an oil based gloss enamel. I do advise the use of a foam roller to rapidly spred out the enamel, however, a quality brush should then be used to brush it out. Had you used oil paint originally, even the foam roller alone would have looked much better due to the nature of oil paint.


Hope this helps.

Posted 2012-06-14T05:29:20+0000  by ordjen


I had originally planned on using an oil base paint, but when I went to HD and I explained what I was painting, the paint technician highly recommended using the acrylic paint, so since this was my first project, I took his advice....

I sanded most of the surfaces last night, pretty much down to the primer. When I went back to HD, I spoke with another paint technician to see if there was anything they could recommend to fix the problem and was told it couldnt be the rollers, because thats what they would normally recommend.... well guess what, it was the dang rollers!


I used a wide paint brush and ligthly dipped the brush into the paint and dry brushed the surfaces to a smooth finish. I have yet to paint the table top, will either use a foam brush with the acrylic and then a water base shellac to give it a durable surface... or go with an oil base for the table top all together.


I thought using an oil base over acrylic would cause bubbles in the acrylic paint... or is that only oil base paints over acrylic paints?



Posted 2012-06-14T15:31:26+0000  by Grace3824




One problem you will encounter at HD is that many stores have virtually no oil paint which can be tinted other than Glidden Porch and Floor paint. If you just want a white or black, RustOleum oil enamel is available.


I would stick with an oil finish coat. No other protective clear coat is necessary with a good oil paint. It will level out to a hard, durable , non-sticky surface. I have no problem with use of a foam roller, so long as it is then brushed out with a good bristle brush, or synthetic bristle brush rated for "all paints". The roller will get a nice even coat on the surface rapidly. You can then lightly brush out the roller "dipple". The brush must be filled with paint as if you were solely using the brush. Do not dry brush it! I am not a fan of foam brushes for full bodied paint. They can do a decent job on light bodied varnishes where they are used almost like a squeegee, but don't do well brushing paint.


There is a lot of misinformation about whether oil over latex, or latex over oil is allowed. The main concern with interior paints is that you get a good bond when using latexs over hard, slick oils. Here, it is a good idea to either use a dedicated oil or acrylic primer, or, use a self-priming paint such as Behr's Ultra. Ultra will stick to even hard urethane varnishes .


The concern with exterior paints is that the oil is brittle and non-elastic and gets more so with age. Latex/acrylic paints are very elastic and have great adhesion. In the heat of the summer, the expanding acrylic paint, under the worst scenario, can tear the underlying non-elastic oil paint right of the surface of the house! In a heat and humidity stabil interior climate, such expansion is not normally a concern.


As to top coating with "a water based shellac": shellacs are only alcohol based. Shellacs are also not the most durable coating for a table top. Shellacs don't begin to equal the protection of a urethane, especially when water is set upon it. Worse yet would be an alcoholic drink. Remember, alcohol is the solvent in shellac! Alcohol will re-dissolve dried shellac.


Hope this isn't information overload. The short of it is this: stick with oil primer and paint and you will end up with a hard durable finish.

Posted 2012-06-15T04:45:13+0000  by ordjen
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