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How to get rid of glue from peeled decals

I pasted some decals on my Expresso Kitchen cabinets & later peeled them off since I didn't like them , however it has left behind a shadow & adhesive behind. I've tried Goo Gone but still haven't been able to get rid of it. Also 1 cabinet has some polish peeled. Is there an easy way I can fix this. 

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Posted 2013-09-10T22:25:20+0000  by jaek jaek

Howdy Jaek,


For starters allow me to be the first to welcome you to the Home Depot Community. This is a place where we share; questions, answers, expertise, and opinions. Let's discuss some options for you getting rid of sticker adhesive.




Here are a few ways to get rid of the sticky residue left behind from stickers.

1) Peanut Butter: believe it or not you can use peanut butter and papertowels and it will take the residue off with a bit of elbow grease.

2) Rubbing alcohol: this wonder liquid is great for getting rid of stick residue, disinfecting cuts, and is very flammable.

3) Mouthwash: Most alcohol based mouthwashes work great for cleaning adhesive from surfaces.

4) Olive oil (like peanut butter) will break up the sticky stuff and stick to the paper towel.

5) Nail Polish remover works just like the rubbing alchohol.


Remember to check to see if the nail polish or rubbing alcohol  is going to damage the cabinet finish.


Happy sticking,

Posted 2013-09-12T22:50:51+0000  by Dave_HD_OC

Thanks Dave,


I'll surely try the options u've suggested. How do I fix the peeled polish? Will application of minwax help. If yes, how do I use the minwax?

Posted 2013-09-13T01:13:47+0000  by jaek

Howdy again Jaek,


Taking into consideration that your cabinets are actual wood and not a man made material let's discuss some options.


For starters, clear finishes work in one of two ways: either by forming a hard film over wood or by penetrating it. The film-forming products—both classic varnishes and modern urethanes—are unmatched in their ability to bring out the beauty and depth of a wood surface while guarding against wear and tear. But they're often demanding to apply and always unforgiving of neglect: If not lightly sanded and recoated every one to three years, the film will begin cracking and peeling, and then must be stripped down to bare wood.


Penetrators, on the other hand, preserve wood by soaking into its fiber and so do not peel or require scraping or sanding; the finish simply wears away. Compared with hard coatings, they do a better job of letting damp wood dry out, and they can be recoated without elaborate surface preparation. But even the best ones need a routine reapplication just as often as film-formers, and do little to guard the wood surface from dirt and wear.




The discoloration is from UV rays and will fade to a uniform color in time. This video deals with re-finishing cabinets and may answer other questions you didn't even know you had.




As for how to use Minwax? Here are the simple "how to's" of Minwax:


One of the most important steps in wood finishing is sanding. A thorough sanding is often what separates "acceptable" results from "professional looking" results. Start with a medium grade of sandpaper (e.g. #120) and gradually work your way to a finer grade (e.g. #220). Sand in the direction of the grain for a smooth, uniform finish and remove all sanding dust using a vacuum, dry paint brush or cloth. Look out for dried glue, especially in the joint area. If it's not thoroughly removed by sanding, it will interfere with the staining process. End-grains (areas where the wood has been cut against the grain), such as the front side of a table, tend to soak up more stain than surfaces cut with the grain. With additional sanding to end-grain areas, you can better control the absorption of stain.


For the traditional two-step finish, first stain the wood and then apply a clear protective finish. The two-step finishing system permits independent control over each step - the depth of color and the level of protection. This system is used to obtain rich, professional looking finishes on small and large projects as well as on antiques.




  • To sand between chair spindles, wrap a strip of sandpaper around the spindle and work it back and forth like dental floss.
  • For bigger jobs, use a power sander, but first practice on a spare piece of wood.
  • To check your work, run a sock over the sanded wood. If it snags, you'll need to re-sand the area.
  • To prevent wood swelling and warping due to changes in temperature and moisture, finish all exposed surfaces of the wood item. This includes areas not easily visible, like the insides of cabinets and drawers and the undersides of tables.
  • Allow the stain to dry the recommended amount of time before applying the first coat of a clear finish. Applying the protective finish before the stain has completely dried may result in chipping, peeling, or bleeding of color.
  • When using a clear protective finish, "tip-off" each section. Hold the brush at a 45-degree angle and lightly run the bristles over the length of the finish to remove all evidence of brush strokes and break any bubbles that may have occurred.
  • When applying additional coats of a protective finish, the bottom coat must be dry before recoating. Sand between coats to improve coat-to-coat adhesion and carefully remove all sanding dust before recoating. Failure to follow these steps may result in adhesion problems.
  • If you have product left over, wipe the can rim so that the product doesn't dry out and so that rust doesn't form on the can. This will also help you seal the can properly. After sealing, store cans away from heat.
  • Clean brushes soiled with oil-based finishes using mineral spirits. Soap and water are all that is needed for brushes used with water-based products.



Happy Finishing,

Posted 2013-09-16T18:12:22+0000  by Dave_HD_OC
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