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Install & Replace

Interior Door Frame Issue



   I have a interior bedroom door that is split at the strike plate and the hole is split so that the door does not stay close, would it be easrier to replace the one side or the whole frame or if there is a better way to fix this...




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Posted 2011-02-14T00:17:27+0000  by wmckin7 wmckin7

Hello wmckin7, and welcome to our community!


You have the option of either replacing the entire door and frame (pre hung door) or just replacing one side of the jamb. Before you start the project it might be a good Idea to photograph your current project,  so you have it for reference later in case you were wondering how things looked before you took it apart, and it makes for a good show n' tell later.


Replacing one side of the door jamb (the latch side) is not a big deal (as opposed to replacing the hinge side), you just need a few tools and material to make your life a lot easier to get it done. If you need pine or oak, that's great, Home Depot carries both types of jamb material in stock, if you need to paint it, go with the pine. This material is located in the Door & Window dept where all of the moulding is kept, aka. Millwork.


> Measure the depth of the jamb and the height you are replacing, most common in stock is 4-9/16" x 84".


> Next, you need to decide if you can reuse the Door Stop, if you can remove it in one piece, great, if it breaks and it most likely it will, you will need to know what the profile is, see picture below.  You can print out this posting & bring it into the store and show it to the person in the Millwork area, they can also help if you have any other questions that I may have missed.


 door stop 2 revised.jpg


Some of tools that you will need. These maybe be also rented at your local Home Depot:


  • Pry bar
  • Utility knife
  • Hammer
  • Reciprocating saw or oscillating multifunction power tool  
  • Shims
  • 4 foot Level
  • Finish nails
  • Painter's caulk or wood filler
  • Touch up paint or stain
  • carpenters square
  • Miter saw or hand saw & miter box

Starting the removal process:


Door casing is the trim around the door, if you have paint  you will need to use your utility knife to break bead of paint where you see the red indicating lines below. If you have trim on both sides, then you will need to repeat the process to both sides.


door casing bead.JPG


Once the casing is removed then you will be able to see the vertical portion of the door jamb that you are going to replaced. The red circle shows you the jamb exposed, the blue circle shows you the shims that were used in this project, and this is how your shims will look once you have finished replacing your jamb.


door jamb revealed detail.JPG


Now begins the cut out of the damaged jamb. Using the Reciprocating saw or oscillating multifunction power tool, start to cut into the shims at the top, then work your way down through all of the nails.The arrows in the picture below show the void between the wall/stud and the jamb. The green rectangle is only highlighting the jamb for reference purposes only.


door jamb revealed.jpg


Once the old jamb is removed, then you can install the new and line it up in the same location as the previous jamb. Using your level to make sure the new wood is plumb, shims the area behind the jamb, then nail through the jamb into the shims.


Once the jamb is installed & plumb, then you can either reuse the door stop moulding that you took off, or install the new, try to cut it to fit exactly to the same size and mitered at the top to fit in with the horizontal door stop along the top.


Once the door stop is in place, now move on to marking the area where you need to drill a hole for the door latch. Close the door, and mark with a pencil where the latch plate needs to go. You may need to notch out the jamb with a chisel in order to make the latch plate fit flush with the surface of the jamb.

door latch plate.JPG


Once you have fit the latch plate, and everything meets with your satisfaction, then you can remove the latch plate, and either stain the new jamb, or paint. If you have any questions please fee to send me a reply.


Please post pictures of this or any project. Thanks for posting.

Posted 2011-02-14T17:25:18+0000  by Angelo_HD_CHI
SO glad to have found your "lesson" on door jambs, Angelo! I'm confused about a few things & have a couple of questions, please:
1) I see the shims nailed between the jamb & the stud [we can't see the stud]. But I'm wondering if there's a standard header above the upper, horizontal part of the jamb or, if a non-bearing wall, is there's only a 2x4 lying in its side, above that jamb, acting as a header?
2) Is that 'hidden' stud a King Stud or is it the Jack Stud that's helping hold up the Header above (that's out of our view)?
3) IF it's the King Stud, either there's NO Header or the Header is just a 2x4 lying in its side and side-nailed or toe-nailed into the King Stud [as there's No Jack Stud].
4) The upper, horizontal section of the jamb appears to be inserted into a routed-out section of the left, vertical jamb. IF so, will this routed section already be routed when we buy the replacement vertical jamb section from Home Depot? And, wouldn't the horizontal section be glued and nailed into the vertical jamb piece being replaced? Would they separate easily or ARE they glued & nailed together?
Thank you so much for indulging these questions! I'll research further, for sure, but your 'lesson', though extremely helpful, omitted info that I guess I probably should've known!
My best,
Posted 2013-08-18T23:44:38+0000  by b-natalie
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