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Martha Living Faux Finishes Showing Up In Stores

Martha Living Faux Finishes are the newest addition to her line of products offered through The Home Depot.

Included in the mix are Precious Metals, Potter's Clay, and Faux Finishing Glaze.




Precious Metals use silver and gold bases to create metal look-a-like finishes. They can be applied smooth using an ultra-smooth foam roller or a 3/8th nap fiber roller. They can also be used to create the "hammered" look using textured rollers (like the RL Metallic Roller). This product can be used by itself or combined with Faux Glaze to create other effects. Here is one example.


Potter's Clay is a top coat used over a base color (recommended on the back of the color card) to create a slightly textured effect on the wall. The texture is made from recycled paper added to the base, so this product is not recommended for use in bathrooms, kitchens, or other areas where it will be exposed to moisture. Texture is added to Potter's Clay using random "X" marks with a brush after rolling a four foot by four foot square over the based color.


ML Faux Glaze, like Behr's Faux Glaze, is mixed with your choice of paint colors (or other finishes) at a rate of four parts glaze to one part top coat. This is commonly applied over a base color using a sponge, rag, or brush to create a visual effect that combines a very slight texture with two or more colors. Though around for many years, faux finishes gained prominence in the paint industry as an alternative to wall paper (which is still available on Home Depot's Internet site but not in most stores). Here is a video describing application techniques.


As you might expect, we will begin exploring applications for Martha's new products and will share them here on the Community.

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Posted 2011-01-27T16:06:34+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL Pat_HD_ATL



I read the previous posts because I'm having the same issue with the Martha Stewart Precious Metals paint and streaking issues. I'm unclear on how to fix it. I have applied 2 coats and carefully followed the directions. First the the angled/W pattern, followed by quick, continuous, vertical strokes. Used the RL shag roller. By the 2nd coat the roller was completely matted and I like the smoother look, however, there are still streaks. I tried to stay very consistent with how I loaded the roller. Also waited 24 hours between coats.


Now I'll need to buy a 2nd can of paint. Probably another roller. What do you suggest from here for a roller, as well as application to avoid the streaks. 




Posted 2011-05-10T14:53:49+0000  by kwdesign

Hello Kelly!


Glad you joined us here at the Community!


I am following up on your statement, "I like the smoother look."


In the post just above yours I mentioned that, "I have had much better results using the dense foam roller to create a smooth, seamless finish with this product (MLPM)."


The dense foam roller is available in either a four-inch or six-inch size.



Click here to link to a description of the roller.


In the description, the manufacturer says, "The ultra-dense foam roller cover provides a smooth paint film ... (which) helps prevent bubbling and orange peel."


The key to creating a smooth finish with this roller is keeping the foam saturated with paint.


In practice, you'll go back to the tray regularly to keep the roller loaded.


This combination (MLPM and dense foam roller) should give you the "smoother look" you are trying to create.

Posted 2011-05-10T15:39:05+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL

Thank you! I'll go with that roller for the next coat. (I actually use these at work for gluing large projects as a graphic designer)


Do you think that should also help eliminate some of the streaking or will that increase the risk of streaking with the Martha Stewart Precious Metals paint?


Thanks! You are very informative and helpful! Much appreciated. 

Posted 2011-05-10T16:26:17+0000  by kwdesign

Hello Again Kelly,


Glad to help!


Filling a column as wide as your body with paint, while going back to the tray regularly to keep the roller wet, will cover the wall with paint.


Before moving over (to fill the next column), use "smoothing strokes" to eliminate the scuff marks created while covering the wall with paint.


You do this by pulling your roller from the top of the wall all the way to the floor, without picking the roller off the wall. Overlap the "smoothing strokes" about 1/2 inch or less.


Plan your work to start and stop exactly in the corner. This prevents the hard edge, called a "High Hat," that shows thru the next coat ... essentially a double thickness of paint.


If you "work to a wet edge" (filling the next column before the preceding column dries) the two wet edges will blend into one layer of paint.


Finally, do not "overwork" the paint. At some point, the roller will begin picking the paint back up ... creating more texture.


MLPM is toward the top of the price scale and it doesn't cover as many square feet per gallon as standard wall paint. As a result, many of us try to "stretch" the product.


Try to resist this urge and simply put on a generous coat ... then allow it to dry.


You should get much better results.

Posted 2011-05-10T17:02:00+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL

Hey!!!  I have been painting with the precious Metal paint and getting tons of streaking... I have been using the roller suggested to me...   The 4inch and the 9 inch Martha Stewart Roller... For one the roller falls apart and leaves what looks like pieces of yarn all over that I have to pick off and then roll over again... grrr :)  anyways I had no idea that this wasn't supposed to make the sheen and flat shinny look I desired I had no idea that it would look hammer.. :(  I told the lady what I was looking for and these are the rollers she said I had to have otherwise it wouldn't work... sooo now I have painted a good 3 coats on my walls fallowing all the directions thinking I just was too slow and it dried too fast... But that doesn't seem like it was my problem after all... soooo now do I have to sand down this texture that was applied to the wall before I use the foam roller???  (then wash... And prime and start all over)  or what do I do???  I was also told this has a satin like finish when all is said and done.. But from what I read it is more semi-gloss???  And the information/ instructions pamphlet could use some improvements.... I am not a first time painter...   I have done this many of times before and worked in a paint department of a store for awhile so I am stranger to painting... But the lack of instructions has taken a 2 day project into a week......  and a trip or two to the store later I am still looking for answers...

Posted 2011-06-01T04:55:59+0000  by liz

Hi Liz!!!


Thanks for joining the thread.


It seems that several members of the Community are creating streaks in their finish, so I created this video to demo two different tools for ML Precious Metals ... one smooth and one textured applicator.



Three key take-aways are: 1) keep the roller saturated, 2) use smoothing strokes to eliminate roller marks, and 3) allow the product to dry 24-hours between coats.


It is my hope that after viewing the video and following these steps, you'll be able to create a beautiful finish that will compliment your decor.

Posted 2011-06-02T15:51:05+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL

Like many others I am having problems with the "high hat." However, I did do exactly as instructed. I took NO BREAKS between columns, painted as quickly as I could, and even broke a sweat trying to move through the columns quickly to avoid the high hat. But after two coats I still have the high hat. I also find that at the ceiling, where only the small Martha Stewart roller reaches, the color is much lighter than those areas that have been covered by the 9" Martha Stewart roller. I should say that I also kept the rollers VERY FULL at all times, especially on the second coat.


With that, I still have significant high hatting occurring. Here are my questions:


1. I noticed in one of Pat in Paint's videos (MLPrecMtls.mp4) that he used a smooth foam roller to apply the background Precious Metals paint before he applied the sponge painting. I now have two coats of this paint on my walls. Can I take a semi-smooth roller (or other foam roller) and apply a third coat (without doing the 20"x20" squares) that goes top to bottom on the walls and moving quickly so no edges dry? Will this take care of my high hatting or will it introduce other problems because I didn't do the 20"x20" squares?


2.How do I get the edging to work out? Can I use a smaller foam roller like I use with regular paints?


3. If doing as suggested in #1 won't work, what should I do to make this work? Clearly high hatting occurs even among those of us who doggedly follow the guidelines for applying this paint. How do we make it work?


Thank you,

Dr. Swanky

Posted 2011-07-17T17:52:12+0000  by DrSwanky

I am wanting to use Martha Stewarts Precious Metals in golden pearl color for my ceiling but I was told that my nearest homedepot store only carries it in the small containers. Some of the other colors are available in gallon size so why is it I cannot get the golden pearl in gallon size too?

Posted 2011-07-26T18:11:17+0000  by Dionan

Hello Dionan!


Thanks for joining us on the Community!


The color name Golden Pearl doesn't appear in Martha Stewart's selection of colors.


Pink Pearl is the only color with a similar name in her offering.


Under the entire computerized formula book at my Store, a search across all competitor color names for the color Golden Pearl doesn't bring up any colors either.


I can tell you that as recent as yesterday, I mixed both gallons and quarts of Precious Metals in colors from the Martha Living display (across from the paint desk).


Please take time to double-check the color name and then get back to your local Associates for more help.


We are always here to help you as well!

Posted 2011-07-26T18:29:05+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL

The number next to the name of the color is 349- 276 maybe this will help in assisting you in finding the color I am talking about.


Posted 2011-07-26T20:04:30+0000  by Dionan
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