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Martha Living Faux Finishes Showing Up In Stores

Martha Living Faux Finishes are the newest addition to her line of products offered through The Home Depot.

Included in the mix are Precious Metals, Potter's Clay, and Faux Finishing Glaze.

 

MLFaux.JPG  VIDEO

 

Precious Metals use silver and gold bases to create metal look-a-like finishes. They can be applied smooth using an ultra-smooth foam roller or a 3/8th nap fiber roller. They can also be used to create the "hammered" look using textured rollers (like the RL Metallic Roller). This product can be used by itself or combined with Faux Glaze to create other effects. Here is one example.

 

Potter's Clay is a top coat used over a base color (recommended on the back of the color card) to create a slightly textured effect on the wall. The texture is made from recycled paper added to the base, so this product is not recommended for use in bathrooms, kitchens, or other areas where it will be exposed to moisture. Texture is added to Potter's Clay using random "X" marks with a brush after rolling a four foot by four foot square over the based color.

 

ML Faux Glaze, like Behr's Faux Glaze, is mixed with your choice of paint colors (or other finishes) at a rate of four parts glaze to one part top coat. This is commonly applied over a base color using a sponge, rag, or brush to create a visual effect that combines a very slight texture with two or more colors. Though around for many years, faux finishes gained prominence in the paint industry as an alternative to wall paper (which is still available on Home Depot's Internet site but not in most stores). Here is a video describing application techniques.

 

As you might expect, we will begin exploring applications for Martha's new products and will share them here on the Community.

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Posted 2011-01-27T16:06:34+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL Pat_HD_ATL

Hello DeeDavis!

 

I'm sorry to learn of your problem!

 

The Home Depot owns the customer service segment of the home improvement marketplace, so I'm very certain we can find a solution.

 

TRY THIS: Take the light sets to the Customer Service desk and ask for your Electrical Associate to review the problem. Most light sets and electrical components are manufactured to common standards. The larger and smaller plug sides are designed to ensure the proper polarity when supplying power to lights, appliances, tools, or other electrical items.

 

If your Electrical Associate cannot determine a simple way to link your lights, ask your Customer Service Associate to accept the lights for return and purchase a different set of lights that will link. Or, ask your Customer Service Associate to provide a suitable solution that will allow you to link your existing lights without considerable additional cost to you.

 

Although I can hear the frustration in your question, I encourage you to allow The Home Depot to help you resolve this problem. I have confidence in our Electrical Associates and our Customer Service Associates ... together, they should be able to resolve this problem quickly and to your satisfaction. Give it a try!

Posted 2012-12-06T19:21:08+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL

Has anyone used these paints to paint furniture? I have an old vintage looking dresser that I want to paint Quayside its a dark metallic grey, and Im wondering if rolling it with the smooth roller or the foam roller or using a brush will be best. Also, Im sure this is a dumb question but how much primer should I be using? I painted on a thin coat just enough so that a bit of the original wood shows through still. Thanks! This is the dresser IMG_1509.JPG

Posted 2013-08-02T02:57:49+0000  by mayab

Hello mayab!

 

Thanks for the photo!

 

Because your vintage dresser has a clear coat over the stain, you'll need an oil-based primer to ensure your paint adheres.

 

Try a quart of Zinsser Cover Stain tinted gray ... a little lighter than Quayside.

 

One coat of primer should be sufficient.

 

I would use the white foam roller to create a smooth finish on both your primer and your paint.

 

NOTE:

 

The thin coat of primer that leaves "just a bit of the original color showing through" is exactly the right amount.

 

Primer is used to promote adhesion and does not cover like paint.

 

Tinting your primer to be similar to Quayside will improve your paint coverage.

 

Expect two coats of paint to cover.

Posted 2013-08-06T12:17:42+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL

I just did my first project with the Martha Stewart Metallic paint, and have a couple suggestions that might be helpful to others.  Expect to see some separation of colors when you open the can.  The best bet is to purchase it just before you start your project, so that it will be fresh out of the store's shaker.  Even an electric stirrer will not get it as cohesive.

 

Since this paint has such an unusual consistancy, it's really hard to get a good cut-in with a brush.  It just streaks out.  I found, for the textured application, that it worked well to load up a small brush and use a pouncing, dabbing motion to push the paint up around the edges.  (Yes, i used a boatload of painter's tape on ajoining walls!)  Even better might be to use a primer tinted to a color close to that of the metallic, and painting the wall with that first.  Problem cut-ins won't be as visible that way.

 

The associate in the video is painting on a flat surface.  On a vertical surface, if you fill up the brush as he suggests, you get good coverage, but also lots of streaking, dripping, and blobbing downhill.  Careful rolling helps, but the finished texture may still be more soft and flow-y than you might expect.  (I did use the Martha Stewart textured roller, because i hadn't seen this video before i started, and so didn't know the Ralph Lauren might be better.)  If you see drips after you finish painting, it's best not to try to roll them out.  The paint that is still tacky will start pulling back up that way.  Fill a small brush with paint, and dab over the drip with the tips of the bristles.  That will "pop" the drips and texture around them.  If worse comes to worse and the paint still pulls away, a little finger-painting works wonders.

 

Expect to do two coats, but even after just one the richness and depth of color in this paint is evident, and, for me at least, the paint is worth the extra effort to work with.

Posted 2013-09-03T18:50:17+0000  by painty1

Thank You painty1!

 

I love what you've done for The Community!

 

You've given us all the benefit of your experience toward successfully completing our projects.

 

You are clearly what DIY is all about ... Thanks!

Posted 2013-09-03T21:02:25+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL

Can MS faux glaze be safely used in higher humidity areas like a bathroom? Our HD paint rep said not recommended for bathrooms, but I see you are saying that only in reference to Potter's Clay. The can makes no indication of humidity issues. Our bathroom is the spare, but shower will be used sometimes.

Thanks!

Posted 2014-02-03T21:36:34+0000  by jcrowe

Hello jcrowe!

 

Your "paint rep" got it exactly right ... in fact, most water-based paints that produce texture may be damaged by high moisture.

 

The texture creates natural clinging spots where moisture collects ... most commonly staining the surface.

 

Many DIYers solve this problem using a clear coat over their faux finish.

 

And some will switch to oil-based faux glaze ... which is more durable when exposed to high moisture.

 

EASIEST SOLUTION:

The most direct way to eliminate this problem is to eliminate the moisture.

 

Install and/or always turn on the bathroom exhaust fan.

 

Modern exhaust fans move much more air and run more silently.

 

So consider changing your exhaust fan for a high-flow model.

Posted 2014-02-04T14:37:40+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL
I don't know why this post got re-posted, as Martha Steward paints and faux finishes have all been discontinued at Home Depot!
Posted 2016-11-02T22:18:59+0000  by ordjen
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