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More Rustoleum woes

The product has potential, there's just so much missing in the details!

 

The first woe is my local HD didn't have a display so I had to choose the color blindly based on the box printing.  I was torn with the browns and the employee said Espresso was the most popular color, espresso it was.  I was bummed until I put the glaze on thickly which darkened the tint enough to make it workable. 

 

First off the deglosser was a joke, or I'm extremely weak at scrubbing.  Either way I was completely exhausted and then continued the repetitive madness the next 2 mights by sanding all surfaces.  I'm doing 2 bathrooms and a vanity area in the bedroom.  The prep took 4 days in itself.  For grins I finished with a last round of deglosser scrubbing and split fingers.

 

I could only apply one llayer of bond coat a night so there was plenty of dry time.  The glaze had similar dry time and a full weekend while I dreaded this top coat.  So DRY.  As the box or instructions said, I used a natural brush which I believe caused my ultimate demise.  I went with long strokes, stirred slowly, dabbed the constant foam between dips on a paper towel. 

 

I will admit I was stumped at the bevels, how does one to stay with the grain of the wood while not going back on any stroke?  That rules out going cross-grain then pulling the fluid out...  So I loaded up the brush, jammed it in crease, then pulled outwards to the middle.  If that's the north side of the cabinet, rotate to do the south side, and now I have 2 drying ends of the lowered cabinet and have to connect them in the middle without back stroking.  So I crossed strokes a little.  I figured it was along the grain, and a second coat would make it less noticable.

 

To my horror, the entire doors were covered in tiny bubbles!  And wads of dried white foam along various bends and random slobbering landings.  That was 4 months ago and I just had to throw in the towel.

 

Just this weekend I finally finshed sanding the bubbles off w/ 220 grit paper.  I tried to just break the surface but the crater indentations of bubbles made it look like the moon so I had to go deeper and exposed a lot of wood.

 

My dilemma - I have to add color again.  The very nature of the grain means I won't be able to remove all top coat.  But I had to remove all topcoat before starting.  So ...  Will the bond coat stick to the Rustoleum topcoat, or do I have to start ALL OVER FROM SCRATCH? 

 

 

If I do, would I be better off just painting the things with oil based paint??  Will it stick to the topcoat if I get the paint + primer combo?  And I saw a blog referring to "Flowtrol" to make the paint level and look 'professional.'  Ever hear of it?

 

http://www.sasinteriors.net/2011/07/kitchen-makeover-phase-two-painting-the-cabinets/

 

As warm snaps in weather blow through I'd like to start making some sort of progress on this but have absolutely no idea what to do.  I'm leaning toward redoing it with Tudor and using the Sanding Sealer referenced in one post - that polyurethene layer is very very thin!  The thought of sanding off all shine by hand makes me balk though!

 

Any suggestions?

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Posted 2013-02-03T23:39:30+0000  by toweltoss toweltoss
 

Don't throw it in yet Toweltoss!  

 

We have a vast collection of DIYers who have been in your exact place and came out victorious.  I know the community will rally and welcome you in the Cab-Trans fold.

 

If I may be the first to offer some advise...

 

All you have to do is recoat the sanded surface with the base coat.  

Adding Floetrol   will dramatically change the performance of any latex product.  It allows the paint to dry a little slower - which gives the paint time to level out.  Just make sure to paint each side resting flat.  

 

I like these resting points in a situation like this.

 

 As far as the glazing goes: try tackling sections like the top and bottom of the front face (stopping at the natural wood joint), letting it completely dry and then doing the sides.  Keep a smooth damp cloth to immediately wipe off any mistakes.

 

When applying the top clear coat - brush a very thin coat. Brushing slower will reduce the amount of bubbles and foam. 

 

Posted 2013-02-04T15:30:18+0000  by Kevin_HD_ATL

(don't even get me started on linty towels in this whole process!)

 

Thank you for the info.  I LIKE the idea of doing all north/south grains first, then coming back ot the east/west ones after it dries.  That will take some brush angst out of it.  To be honest when the 'old-school way' was mentioned in another rustoleum woe post I kinda set my heart on it.

 

Those little stackers will work better than the wood pieces I've been using.  I'm intrigued by the floetrol for sure, but then it just looks like I have painted cabinets.   Not quite the vision I had...  Tho, I guess I could 'fake' them up just like the rustoleum product is faked up, since the bond coat is just that - paint.

 

I guess what will drive the ultimate decision is - Will Rustoleum bond coat stick to Rustoleum Topcoat?   

 

So far just 70% of the fronts are sanded/scuffed.  Or -- do I need to sand alllllll the nooks and crannies first, before attempting bond coat application #2?  (preferably a different color, so sanding the backs) 

 

If that's the case, paint might win.

 

Dilemmas and no powertools...sigh.

 

 

Posted 2013-02-08T21:24:57+0000  by toweltoss

can't edit my topic and forgot to imbed a link:

 

http://community.homedepot.com/t5/The-Paint-Pit-Blog/Can-You-Produce-An-quot-Old-School-quot-Glass-Like-Polyurethane/ba-p/31357

 

 

Posted 2013-02-08T21:27:28+0000  by toweltoss
 
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