Sign In to join the community | Help
Build & Remodel

Polyurethane Vs. Super Glaze Epoxy?

I am building a shuffleboard, attempting to use hardwood plywood for the surface as a cheaper alternative to maple. I have been loosely following some instructions I found online; at this point it calls for 8-10 coats of Minwax Polycrilic to finish off the table, including a final coat of spray polyurethane to achieve the most uniform finish possible.


After doing my own research, I am debating between water-based polyurethane, oil-based polyurethane and, after today, Parks Super Glaze. The Super Glaze appears to be the best choice, but I haven't found any side-to-side comparisons, and the stuff is pretty expensive to simply test it out.


So my basic question is: to achieve the smoothest, most uniform finish on my hardwoord planks, am I looking at polyurethane, polycrilic, or Super Glaze? Also, would it be of any benefit to, instead of applying a thick coat of Super Glaze, apply a few base coats of polyurethane, and then a thin coat of Super Glaze on top of that?

Not what you were looking for ? Try posting a question
Posted 2014-01-21T00:17:25+0000  by Stefmc Stefmc




My son just built a table hockey game using plane MDF with about four coats of Minwax oil  based polyurethane. Between each coat, he sanded lightly. The last coat was sanded with 6oo grit sandpaper and then given a coat of paste wax. He utilized old CD's for the pucks. Old CD's with wooden handles glued to them are used to strike the "pucks". They really go flying over the surface!


Of the two products, a regular urethane, rather than the two-part catelyzed epoxy, is easier to use. It flows out well to form a thin, even coat. A minimum of 3 coats wood be neccessary to get a good build up.


 A down side to using the water based urethane is that it tends to swell MDF  or plywood grain. It also needs at least an additional coat, as it forms a thinner film.  The up side to the WB urethane is that it is crystal clear in color, has low odor and is fast drying.  That being said, my preference is for the old oil version.


Any of these products require a warm, non-humid workspace. A cold, damp garage doesn't hack it. The catelyzed epoxy needs warmth to harden. It will sit there uncured until room like temperatures are reached!


Hope this has helped.

Posted 2014-01-21T01:14:30+0000  by ordjen
Not what you were looking for ? Try posting a question