A king sized mattress is 16" wider than a queen.
This is exactly what I am looking for but in a King size. We are looking to buy a King size mattress only, so it would sit directly on the platform with drawers underneath. We don't need a large head board, no footboard.
Any advice, or if you have similar plans already, I would greatly appreciate it.
About how much does this project cost?
Was playing around with an alternative headboard design and came up with this. In the recessed area above the photograph, you could easily install some lighting.
I think I have it all covered. Just let me know if you think I missed something. I can provide you with a cutting diagram if you need it. The construction of this is pretty straight-forward, nothing very complicated. It could easily be modified with more mitered corners, dovetailed drawers and the like.
List of materials
(4) 2'x4' lauan 5mm
(5) 4'x8' plywood 3/4"
(9) 1"x8" plank 8'
(5) 1"x4" plank 8'
(4) 1"x3" plank 8'
(5) 1"x2" plank 8'
(16) 1"x1" square hardwood dowel 36"
(12) 1/4"x20 Hex bolt 2-1/2"
(12) 1/4"x20 nut
(24) 1/4" fender washer
(4) bin pulls
1-1/4" wood screws
wood glue - stainable
(2)platform outer trim long - 85"
(2)platform outer trim short - 65"
(2)platform inner trim long - 83-1/2"
(2)platform inner trim short - 62"
(4)drawer bottom support - 19-1/2"
1" square dowel
(8)drawer slide - 18"
(8)drawer slide support top - 17-1/2"
(8)drawer slide support bottom - 19-1/2"
(8)drawer front/back - 38-3/8"
(8)drawer side - 18"
(4)drawer face - 41-5/8"
(4)base back - 40-1/4"
(8)base side - 31"
(4)base support - 40-1/4"
(4)drawer bottom - 18-3/8"x37-5/8"
(8)base top/bottom - 31"x41-3/4"
(2)mattress platform - 31-3/4"x83-1/2"
We will start with the construction of the drawers. After cutting the side, front and back pieces to length, you will need to route a 1/4" wide dado, 1/4" deep, along the length of each piece. This will hold the floating bottom of the drawer. Next, along each of the sides, on the opposite side of the dado for the drawer bottom, you will need to route a 1" wide dado, 1/8" deep. This will be for the drawer glide and will be 1-1/2" from the bottom of the side. Next screw and glue the two side pieces to the back of the drawer. Now slide the drawer bottom into the dado and add the drawer front. Screw and glue the front into place. Clamps will help hold it all together while the glue sets. When constructing the drawers, ensure you have nice 90 degree corners by using your speed square or other device. You can also measure up one side of your corner and make a mark at 3". Measure up the other side of the corner and make a mark at 4". The distance between the two marks should be 5". This is known as the 3-4-5 rule and is commonly used in building decks to ensure corners are set correctly. You're just doing it on a smaller scale.
Once you have the basic drawer built, you can attach a 1" square dowel into the dado you cut on the outside of the sides. These will be 18" long. Again, screw and glue these into place. You'll notice I specified to use hardwood dowels. This will help them slide easier. Softwood won't slide very well even if you wax it. Wax can be used to help the drawers slide easier if you find it necessary.
Now you can flip the drawer over and attach the drawer bottom support. This will be a 1x2 that you will route a 1/4" deep by 3/4" long rabbet on each end.
Once this is completed, screw and glue it into the middle of the bottom of the front and back pieces of the drawer. You're going to want that luaun bottom to float freely to avoid expansion and contraction issues, but it will be supported by this piece you just attached. You are going to do this for each of the four drawers. For all four of the drawer faces, the drawer will be mounted 1-1/2" from the bottom of the face. For two of the drawers, the drawer will be mounted 1-11/16" from the left side of the face. For the other two drawers, you will mount the drawer 1-9/16" from the left side of the drawer face. This offset allows the drawer faces to be flush on the outside edge, but not touch on the inside edge. In the center of the drawer face, attach a bin pull or other low profile cabinet pull.
Now you're ready to build the four base sections that the drawers will fit into. Starting with the sides, you're going to route in some more dados for pieces that will make the drawer slide channel. As before these will be 1" wide and 1/8" deep on the "in" sides of the side pieces. These only need to extend back about 20-1/2" from the end. Be sure to check the orientation of your sides since the dados don't go end to end. For the 1" square dowels that will be used for the channels, the top ones will be two inches shorter than the bottom ones. This allows the drawer front to drop down when you pull it all the way out. It also makes it easier to put the drawer back in since you don't have to align it exactly. The top dowel will be 2" in from the front edge and the bottom dowel should be flush with the edge. The back side of the dowels will butt up against the base support piece. The base support is 10" from the back side of the base. Again, screw and glue it all together, checking each corner to ensure 90 degrees.You will now attach the base bottom to your base carcass. Again, screw and glue. A good practice is to clamp everything together before you screw and glue to test fit your drawers. For the base top, you'll need to cut two 6"x23" slots, 4" from their respective three sides. These slots are going to allow you access to bolt the four base sections together. To cut these slots, take a pencil and draw out your two rectangles. Next, using a drill bit larger than your jig saw blade, you're going to drill two holes in opposite corners. Now you'll be able to run your jig saw down the lines to cut out the slots. Once completed, screw and glue the top to the two sides, base support and the back. As for the drawers, you're going to do this four times.
Next, you can move onto the mattress platform. It is going to be cut out of two sheets of plywood. Each piece will be 31-3/4"x83-1/2". Run a bead of glue down the length of one side and butt the two piece of plywood together. For the built up sides, the inside pieces of 1"x2" are simply mated at the corners using butt joints. The outside 1"x3" have mitered corners. You could miter the corners on the 1"x2" if you wanted. The 1"x2" are screwed and glued to the top of the plywood mattress platform. You will screw and glue the 1"x3" to the 1"x2" from the inside of the plaform. The 1"x3" can also be glued to the edge of the plywood. You can also glue some of the scrap luaun to top side of the mattress platform covering the glued butt joint of the plywood edges. This will help strengthen this weak joint. If desired, you could place a piece of luaun along the underside of the butt joint, as well as, along the perimeter of the underside of the platform. This will help keep the platform level and not stress the butt joint. The only reason for gluing this joint is to make it eaiser to move on and off the base sections should you decide to move the bed. It isn't a necessary step if you want to attach the built up side pieces while the platform is on the base sections.
We have covered the edges of the plywood for the mattress platform with the 1"x3" all the way around. If you want to hide the exposed plywood edges on the base sections, you can use iron-on edge banding.
Now you can drill your 1/4" holes to attach the base sections together and to the mattress platform.
Because the hex bolts can snag or rip your mattress fabric, visit a fabric or craft store and find a remnant of some upholstrey vinyl. Cut four squares big enough to staple over the bolt heads that attach the mattress plat form to the base sections. You only need to staple the vinyl on one side to create a flap. Be generous with your flap size.
Stain or paint, place your mattress and make the bed up. Now, kick back and enjoy a good night's sleep after all your hard work.
Now you asked about adding a headboard. This can easily be accomplished without modifying the above constructed bed. Here is an example. The headboard would just slide over the back side of the platform. You would want to bolt it into place as you did with the base sections. About the only modification you may need to make is to trim down the end of the drawer face that would be against the headboard. This would give it some clearance so as not to rub against the headboard when openning or closing the drawer.
Shown here away from the bed. You'll notice the slot into with the mattress plaform fits.
I've attached the Google Sketchup model used for the above illustrations. It is a free 3D modelling application. You can download the attachment and remove the " .JPG " extension to use the model. It is also in the 3D Warehouse.
The queen size platform bed plan is almost ready. It's going to take me another day or two to write up the post on how to build it. I'm not sure it's going to fall within your budget, but will be cheaper than buying the equivalent quality of materials and design. Just to give you a heads up, you're going to need a few tools. Power tools: drill, circular saw, jig saw, router and you'll probably want a sander. Hand tools and other miscellaneous items: socket set or wrenches, a long straight edge, some clamps, a speed square, a #8 counter sink bit, a 3/32 drill bit, screw driver and some wood glue. You'll also need some sandpaper in various grits: 80, 120, 180.
Here is what I have so far... It's not quite ready for prime time, but should give you an idea of where I went with your idea. Let me know what you think and any changes or additions you might have.