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Reglazing a bathtub

Does anyone know how to reglaze a bathtub?  What materials would I need to purchase?

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Posted 2011-02-11T15:38:58+0000  by housewife housewife
 

Thank you.

Posted 2013-12-20T20:34:11+0000  by SarahElizabeth

I have been  a life-long painting contractor, but re-finishing a tub is one thing I believe is best left to the pros. The materials neccessary to get a good bond can really be nasty, as can some of the finish coat products. When sprayed on by a pro using professional equipment, the finish is amazing. I have had it done in the past and the cost is in the neighborhood of $300.  This is several times the cost of the do-it-yourself kits and several times less than the drop in acrylic liners.

Posted 2013-03-06T04:53:02+0000  by ordjen

Hello,

I own and operate and professional a bathtub resurfacing business. We manufacture our own coatings, so I would consider myself some what of an expert when it comes to resurfacing a bathtub.

First there are mainly two types of tubs;

1. Steel tub coated with procelain (If it's steel it's coated with porcelain, no exceptions)

2. Fiberglass reinforced coated with high polished polyester gel coat.

 

i) The more important part is to get good adhesion so lets start with the easiest.

Fiberglass tubs are easy to get adhesion;

Clean thouroughly with comet and a super rough scotch brite pad, next sand with 320grit wet until ALL the shine is gone for the tub surface, dry very well with a hair drier then apply a high gloss water proof coating.

 

ii)The porcelain coated tubs are the most challanging to get good ahesion and will involved more steps;

Clean thouroughly with comet and a super rough scotch brite pad.

You must then etch the porcelian surface with some type of etching cream. Hydrofloric acid etch is best. You can find this at glass stores, they call it HF glass etching cream. 

Do NOT use some type of hi-tec bonding agent... they NEVER work and have a 80% failure rate so don't trust what the sales-person says, I know i have used them many times and they never work so trust me life will suck if you try too!

This acid etching is like sanding the procelain to accept a primer. Iif you dont etch you will not have good adhesion and it WILL peel. There is no coating in the world that will stick to procelain so dont even try, you will regret it I promise.

After you've etched, cleaned and dried the surface you HAVE to use a primer; epoxy is best for its adhession quality but some urethane primers will do the trick to.

After your Primer is applied you may apply a topcoat directly on top after a 15-20 min flash time or wait till cured then wet sand with 320grit  the next day and then apply your top coat.

The top coat can be anything from Acrylic enamel, Acrylic urethane, polyurethane, polyester, or an epoxy coating. Most epoxy top coats will yellow in time, Polyurethane has the most resistant.

 

If you follow these steps you will have a great looking, long lasting tub for years!

 

Matthew,

BathtubRenew.com

"The future of Bathtub Resurfacing Alturnatives"

Posted 2013-03-05T17:20:29+0000  by bathtubrenew

Hello housewife, and welcome to the Home Depot Community!

A few weeks ago, PatInPaint wrote a tub refinishing post that you might find interesting: LINK

 

The paint department at your local Home Depot has an epoxy acrylic refinishing kit designed just for renewing a bathtub.  It looks like this:

TubKit.jpg

You can also find this on homedepot.com at this  LINK, as well as at this Rust-Oleum website LINK.

The complete package label can be read as an exploded view (pdf file) at this  LINK.

 

In order to complete this project, here’s what you will need:

Cleaning and Surface Preparation: • Bleach (if needed for mildew) • Abrasive cleanser (Comet®) • Abrasive pad • Lime-A-Way® • Sandpaper (#400/600 grit wet/dry) • Tack cloth

 

For Poorly Ventilated Areas: • Room fan

 

Paint Application: • Wooden stirring stick • High-quality, short nap kitchen and bath roller – OR – High-quality, fine bristle varnish brush – OR – Wagner® or HVLP® conventional sprayer or airless sprayer • Goggles/glasses • Latex gloves

 

Clean-up: • Lacquer thinner or isopropyl alcohol

 

 

I would highly recommend using a spray gun rather than a brush or roller.  This will provide the best finish, looking much more professional.  Also,  it is difficult to mask off the drain and overflow fittings.  I would remove them if at all possible so that the new finish does not have a weak point at these vulnerable junctions.

 

I hope this helps.  Please post before and after pictures as well as your thoughts on how this refinishing project went.   Thanks,

 

Newf

Posted 2011-02-11T18:08:46+0000  by Chris_HD_CHI
 
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