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Remove excess dried sticky stain from floor by applying more stain?

I recently sanded my hardwood oak floors down to bare wood.  I applied a first coat of minwax oil based stain, wiping it up with rags after letting it sit for 5 minutes,  and let it dry over night.  Everything looked great.  Applied a second caot in the same fashion the next day, wiping it up as I went.  Apparantly I did not wipe up enough when I did the second coat, because 48 hours later it was sticky and tacky to the touch. I then wiped down the whole area with 3 cans of mineral spirits and about a million rags.  This seems to have helped a lot, but there are still trace amounts of stickyness throughout the floor.  Additionally, the process of wiping the whole floor with mineral spirits has lightened some areas of the floor (removed some of the stains color) and now it appears a little blotchy.  No one else sees the blotchiness, but after two days scrubbing on my hands and knees I can see it.  Before I spend another day wiping down the floor with mineral spirits to remove any excess pigments from the surface of the wood, could I apply a coat of stain to essentially dissolve these remaining pigments and then wipe them up with the newly applied stain?  This would also even out any blotchiness that was caused from my first pass with mineral spirits. 

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Posted 2014-01-31T22:01:11+0000  by vgaler vgaler
 

 

vgaler,

 

You actually have the right idea. Oil stains don't have binders and driers like regular paints. Once the solvent evaporates, you just have the pigment and gummy oil sitting on the surface. Given enough time and a warm , non-humid room, it probably would eventually dry. However, re-wetting it with more stain , letting it sit for a couple minutes and then thouroughly wiping it, should solve the problem.

 

What ever you do, don't try to put urethane over it until it is completely dry, or you will have a super mess!

 

If plan B above fails, there is always washing it down with lacquer thinner, which is a much stronger solvent. It is also very flammable and potentially explosive, so be extremely careful if you go this route.

 

Hope this has helped.

Posted 2014-02-01T02:52:10+0000  by ordjen
Hello vgaler!

When you read Ordjen's replies, you're getting the best information available on either paint or stain.

Truly one of our great assets on The Community!

I particularly like his idea of using another coat of the same product in an effort to re-wet the sticky spots.

Should your sticky spots remain or the floor become spotty, you may wish to back up and start over.

ON THE LABEL:
Most oil-based stains recommend these steps for floors:
1) Remove the entire surface ...most stains are penetrating sealers that must touch the uncoated wood surface to absorb;
2) Remove all of the sanding dust ... wear shoe covers to prevent staining the wood with grass or other residue from your shoe;
3) Apply a thin coat of stain using a wool applicator or natural bristle brush;
4) Allow the stain to absorb for between ten- and thirty-minutes (keep the timeline consistent) and wipe any excess with a cotton rag;
5) If the color matches your expectations, allow to dry six- to eight-hours and coat with polyurethane;
6) If color does not match your expectations, repeat steps three and four until satisfied with the color;
7) Choose the sheen for your polyurethane ... satin, semi-gloss, or gloss.
8) Apply a thin coat using a wool applicator;
9) Allow six- to eight-hours for the coat to dry;
10) Lightly sand with 220-grit paper and remove all sanding dust ... you are sanding just enough to break the gloss; and
11) Repeat steps eight, nine, and ten until you complete three (recommended) coats.

FINALLY:
I prefer staying with the same brand as well as the same solvent-base for both my stain and my polyurethane.

This prevents reactions between solvents that may cause your surface ripple or spot.
Posted 2014-04-17T15:42:12+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL
 
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