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Rookie DIY painting questions

I am hoping to paint but I have no clue what I am doing. I don't want to throw money away by having to re-do anything! My house was a spec home and all of the walls are cheap builder white/gray. It is just flat paint, no eggshell or satin. And the drywall or sheetrock or whatever its called has the standard amount of texture. No faux finishes or smooth walls. I have repainted two bedrooms and they turned out well depsite not knowing what I was doing. But all I did was literally just use a roller and paint over the white that was there. But now I am wanting to do the more prominent rooms in my house. And I would like to try different techniques. Can you do a faux finish technique over the drywall or does it have to be a smooth surface first? I would like to do the linen technique or even the monochromatic vertical metallic stripes with the Martha Stewart Precious Metals paints. Is it better to use a seperate primer and paint or the primer/paint combos when painting over flat white paint?

 

Thanks!!

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Posted 2012-07-28T02:16:58+0000  by SavvyKat SavvyKat
 

 

SawyKat,

 

Whether a faux technique will work on a smooth or textured wall largely depends on just what technique is used. Striated techniques are often difficult on textured walls as the bristles of brushes used to drag and produce the striations, often "skip" or bounceover the texture, disturbing the uniform striations. Minor "orangepeel" texture might work, but a knock down or brocaid texture would not. The best procedure is to make a sample board with a similar texture and audition the intended technique.  A corner of the wall can also be used as a sample area to establish your technique.

 

Textured walls often look good with a light glaze being painted on and then rubbed off. The knock down texture looks especially good with this technique. It takes on an antiqued appearance. I have seen such techniques used in the "Olive Garden" chain of restaurants to give the look of old stucco'd Italian courtyards.

 

Whatever faux technique you try, they will always work better on a well sealed wall surface. A well sealed wall gives you adequte time to "work" the glaze. If it sets to fast,  you will have difficulty removing the glaze or moving it around on the surface. Most faux techniques will work better on at least an eggshell or satin paint.

 

Whenever I, as a painting contractor, went over the builder's paint, I always planned on re-priming and painting. The builder's paint is usually not top of the line and the walls are very dry. Any paint will look and perform better when applied over a well sealed wall.

 

The new self-priming paints by Behr and Glidden offer great convenience You do not have to stop and convert from a primer to the finish color. Further, the "primer" will then be the exact color of the finish coat. This increases the coverability of the color. It can also be quite cost effective. For example, a typical room might require 1 1/2 gallon of primer and 1 1/2 gallon of paint. Should you tint your dedicated primer to match the paint finish coat to increase its coverability, you are left with 1/2 gallon of tintedprimer. The same situation exists with the paint, leaving 1/2 gallon left over. However, if you decide to use the self-priming paint for both coats, you will have used ALL the paint with no oddball half gallons left over!

 

Hope this has helped somewhat.

Posted 2012-07-29T04:07:06+0000  by ordjen

thank you so much for your feedback!! I really love the antique stucco finish so I think that might work great in my dining room and entry way. I didn't know anything about primers or glazes so thank you so much for the suggestions. So I would Prime and Paint my walls and THEN glaze over it? Or do you add the glaze directly to the paint and apply all at once?

Posted 2012-08-02T22:46:28+0000  by SavvyKat

 

SavvyKat,

 

When glazing, the wall is usually primed and painted as if it were going to be the final coat. The glaze is then applied and removed with different tools such as rags, brushes, combs, sponges, etc. There are literally thousands of possibilities and permutations.

 

The glazing liquid is generally mixed at a ratio of one part paint to 4 parts glaze. This gives the translucency to allow the underlying paint to show through and influence the final look. Of course, the amount of translucency can be alterred up or down, depending upon the look you wish to accomplish. With faux finishing, nothing is written in stone, that is why making a sample board is so important. The glazing liquid is usually the darker medium and different enough in intensity to show up on top of the base color. Again, not written in stone. Lighter on dark is also done.

 

There is no lacking of books and websites about applying faux finishes. The Home Depot paint departments also have classes about faux finishing from time to time, usually in the non-summer months.

 

Hope this was helpful.

Posted 2012-08-03T03:59:50+0000  by ordjen
Hello SavvyKat!

Stripes and faux finishes are two distinctly different things.

STRIPES
Stripes can be painted over drywall or almost any wall paint sheen (flat, eggshell, or satin).


Use a level and measuring tape to ensure your lines are vertical and evenly spaced.

Leave the pencil mark exposed in the painting area, so you cover the mark with paint instead of trying to erase the marks.

FAUX
Faux is typically applied over a shiny surface (satin or semi-gloss paint) to ensure the faux media can be manipulated on the surface.

If you apply faux over flat paint, it will embed into the paint, preventing manipulation and making hard-edged spots.

If multiple colors of faux are desired, allow each coat of faux to dry at least two-hours before applying the next color.
Posted 2014-09-04T20:20:02+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL
 
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