Do you have old cabinet that are in serious need of a face lift? The Rust-Oleum Cabinet Transformations kit is perfect for updating your cabinets without getting all new cabinets. With this kit there is no stripping, sanding or priming. It can be applied to wood, laminate and melamine surfaces. It also can be tinted a wide variety of colors. So no matter what color palette you have, there is sure to be a color that will fit right in! Does this sound like a project for you? Keep reading to see how to apply it!
Scrub each door, drawer front and cabinet from with the Deglosser and Scrub Pad (both included) to thoroughly clean and degloss the surface.
Brush on the Bond Coat in even strokes. Finish each door, drawer front and cabinet frame with two coats. Allow to dry 2-3 hours before moving on to the next step.
Create the customer look you want. Brush on the Decorative Glaze and wipe it off with a Decorative Glazing Cloth. Allow to dry 8 hours before moving on to the next step.
Brush on the Protective Top Coat for a long-lasting, durable finish.
They will be full use ready 24 hours after Protective Top Coat in applied. Wait 7-10 days before cleaning with household chemicals.
This kit covers 100 square feet which is approximately 40 linear feet of cabinets.
Rust-Oleum Cabinet Transformations is available online and in our stores!
If you have any questions about how to use this product, please let us know!
One of the benefits of the Transformation product is that it is quick drying and water based . In normal drying conditions, the doors can be flipped in only an hour and the reverse side worked on. It should be supported slight off the surface so that the edges can easily be attended to. It is a good idea to pad the supporting surface with a piece of soft cloth so as to not mar the still fresh surface of the base coat. I like to do all the rear surfaces first, let them dry and them do the front surfaces. Should a minor mar occur, it is on the less visible backside.
The plastic supporting triangles have rather sharp points on the top and risk marring still fresh bond coat. The points concentrate the weight on a small area. A piece of board with soft cloth over the top is far less likely to mar the fresh bond coat on the back of the doors.
Welcome to our community Lindsp!
Thank you for your question! Hyde Painter's Pyramids do exactly what you want without making holes in your cabinets. Many customers of mine have used these and are happy with the results. :)
Let us know if you have any more questions!
Welcome to our community Mvptp3!
According to the Rust-Oleum Cabinet Transformation website, "If painting over raw wood, it is recommended to use a stain blocking primer such as Zinsser® Bulls Eye® 1-2-3 Primer to establish a smooth, hard surface area to work with." Since you are down to raw wood, this would be the best way to prep your wood. :)
If you have any more questions, please let us know!
I've only done two steps and probably won't do the rest unless really necessary, but I'd like to see how I can get more "Bond Coat" in the color of Cabernet, as now I want to complete the whole house in that color! Has anyone matched the color to the Behr? And if so do you know what the color code is? Or is there some way of getting the color for Home Depot to make me some flat base colors?
BTW Before and After Pictures of my home with only the Bond Color..
Took a total of two days to do the kitchen and three bathrooms..
It's my understanding that you could use the "Pure white" Rustoleum kit, and use a roller to apply it(brushing is what leaves the marks that the glaze goes into and creates the distressed pattern). When reading through the product info, it states to use a brush...unless you do NOT want glaze. Then you can use a roller and it will be a solid white finish.
Wow! You certainly are determined! You don't need to remove the old finish, just dull it somewhat.
So, how much deglossing is enough deglossing? I started with a small, two-door, two-drawer with a faux drawer builder-issue bathroom cabinet just to make sure I liked the color I got. And, I am not kidding when I say this, I spent about eight hours deglossing. I used WAY more green scrubby pads than came with the kit, and about half of the deglosser - and, considering one of the sides was paper-covered laminate that I used oil-based primer on, that seems like an awful lot for a tiny bathroom cabinet. Basically, I removed all of the finish except what I couldn't get to in the grain. Do I need to go quite so far with that step? I want to spruce up my kitchen cabinets with this product, but, frankly, the deglossing is a totally daunting task if this is what required to do it properly, and I might just wait until I can afford new ones. Basically, what I want to know is - when am I done deglossing? How much is overkill?
We were hoping this kit would reduce the amount of work involved but I guess if you want it done right, you gotta put the work in. We've already "deglossed" 75% of the cabinet doors and I will definitely do another once over with the sandpaper.