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TrafficMaster Allure Ultra Resilient Plank Flooring

Hey everyone!


Last week I was fortunate enough to help install quite possibly the best resilient flooring that's out there. 


Let me introduce you to to TrafficMaster's new Allure Ultra Resilient Plank flooring, sold exclusively at The Home Depot!


While we have done some posts on the community regarding standard Allure flooring already,  this post to to inform you that Allure Ultra steps up and improves upon the great performance Allure already does. 


All around and pound for pound, Allure Ultra goes further with the same technology that regular Allure does, but with key features that make installation easier and gives an affordable solution to areas that are prone to water and moisture.


The main takeaway I wanted to share on this post is the fundamental difference in the way Allure Ultra is installed versus standard Allure flooring. 


Below is a picture demonstrating how Allure Ultra is being installed. Notice on the top picture how the Clic-lock technology allows for easy installation. The planks snap together by angling the plank to the other just like you would with click-wood or laminate flooring. The picture below is the standard Allure flooring that uses the Grip-Strip to secure the planks together. Grip Strip is an adhesive that works great for installing the floor and keeping it secure, but the Clic-lock technology in Allure Ultra makes installation and upkeep much easier.



Both kinds install to themselves as a "floating" system, so no glue or nails are needed to secure them into place. Both also need to be secured on the edges by leaving a 1/4" gap between the floor and wall and placing molding on top of them so as not to allow for drastic shifts. 


So other than installing, what makes Allure Ultra the best resilient flooring out there? Well, I'll list several features here that make it the best choice for your floor:



  • 20 mil wear layer thickness. Compare that to 7mm is some laminate plank floors!
  • 100% water-proof. But it is NOT a water-proofing product. Any moisture problems need to be addressed before installation
  • has a CBT (Ceramic Bead Technology) coating for added wear and durability!
  • can be installed over uneven sub-floors or existing floors such as natural wood, concrete, vinyl, linoleum, and even ceramic. But remember, any loose or damaged floors should be fixed prior to installing Allure Ultra over the old floor
  • Allure Ultra is extremely easy to clean and maintain, and best cleaning are done with SingleStep Allure cleaner 
Below are samples of the two colors we currently have in-stock in most stores. Also, be sure to check out further samples through special order of more colors as well. 


For any further information on this great new product, check out Home Depot's video, you can find it here


Hopefully this post will get you on the right path to choosing the easiest, durable, and affordable high-quality resilient flooring that you can get for your next flooring project!


Have a great day,


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Posted 2011-03-21T15:29:24+0000  by Joseph_HD_ATL Joseph_HD_ATL

Hello customerS,


Thanks for installing Allure Ultra  and welcome to the community!


I'm glad you like our newest line of resilient flooring we sell, and I'm glad you are letting us know about improvements we can do here or as well as the company to make Allure Ultra better to install. 


In terms of your list of improvements as you say, I will be happy to answer them in the order in which you stated them, even if they seem like statements.


1. To get the instructions for Allure Ultra planks, you are right about not having them in the box.:smileysad: I have found our websites online instruction manual for them. It includes installation, troubleshooting, and maintenance once the floors have been installed. The instruction manual can be found by clicking here


2. In terms of scoring and cutting Allure Ultra, since it's thicker than any other vinyls that I have seen out there, it can be tough to get the size cut you want. My personal experience when I helped build my stores display of it, was using a metal straight edge alongside a good knife. The straight edge helped considerably (I'm not as strong as a drummer) and it also helped me out by scoring back and forth deeper after a few passes with the blade. The trick is to not cut through the entire plank, just getting a score line deep enough so the plank can snap off easily. 


3. When I built our Allure Ultra display at our store, the 'click' in the planks did get a little gap in the beginning. I found that using the correct 15 to 20 degree angle as the instructions stated worked well, and even if there were gaps, find them early and some of them can be rememdied with a tapping block. I used a piece of cut 2x4 as a tapping block and it worked great for our display.


4. For that tricky top part popping up, that is an issue that happens to laminate and click-wood flooring as well. To help solve that, I tell my customers to use heavy duty double-sided mounting tape we sell to help adhere that top plank down to prevent the top part from popping up. Only use the tape of that smaller section and stagger your planks as much as you can to ensure fuller and larger boards won't pop up. To view the tape, click here


5. Excellent question. Allure Ultra is a new product, but even our regular Allure does not have transition pieces either. To get around finding the best option for your threshold and edge pieces, we carry a large assortment of pre-finished stained moulding trim pieces in our flooring department as well as unfinished mouldings in our Millworks department. In staining or finding a color for your trim or threshold pieces, you can get a spot-on match for your Allure Ultra flooring. Every customer I have ever assisted in my store have always had a good idea of their choices once they have seen them all at their availability at the store. All Allures work great with metal transition strips that we sell by M-D. To get a more in-depth look at transition strips, I have included a post I did earlier on that subject found here


6. Sorry to hear about you having to reorder another box. In any flooring project, you have to remember the amount of waste and cuts to be made for the project. The standard thinking in that is to allow 10% waste for your job. Ceramic tile, laminate and linoleum flooring jobs all go by this rule. And in terms of Allure Ultra needed to be staggered for installation, it is an necessary step to take to ensure you will have enough left for the job and for your question on number 8.....


7. To clean and get your Allure Ultra floors looking their best day in day out, they require very little maintenance and very safe to use cleaning agents. We sell in stock in our stores a Allure cleaner that works on all types of resilient flooring, ensuring your floors will get their cleanest and neatest look you can get for them. Below is a picture of this product. Simply use a sponge mop and apply the Single Step cleaner and polish on your floors for routine cleaning...



8. Another great question. Going back to your waste pieces on question number 6, make sure you always have a few extra FULL planks as well as a few partial pieces just in case. Allure Ultra is new and from the looks of things, it seems will have this product for a long time. I still say to hold onto the extra pieces or even get a full carton, since over time the dye lot used to make Allure Ultra can change over time. Even UV from the sun can change the color, albeit slightly, over time. Be sure to have these extra pieces now to ensure when and if you have to make an unforseeable replacement of planks, you'll know you will have exactly the same color, style, and look for your floor.


For any additional concerns or questions, just let us know here. As well, you can always contact our company's manufacturers customer care line at 1-866-THD-TILE ext 6


Hope this helps you out,


Posted 2011-08-29T14:55:46+0000  by Joseph_HD_ATL



We are planning on building a new house and I'm leaning heavily on doing the whole house with the Allure Ultra flooring.  However, there is one part that has me scratching my head on how to approach it and that is what to do with the second floor hallway.  The staircase will be oak tread, but there is no stairnose available that will provide a flush transition to the Allure Ultra in the upstairs hallway.


I'm thinking I'm going to have to install real wood flooring in the hallway and then transition to Allure Ultra in each of the bedroom/bath doorways.  Ideally I'd like to have the Allure Ultra right up to the stairs, but I'm having a hard time picturing using a metal or vinyl molding where the riser meets the hallway.


Any advice would be appreciated.

Posted 2011-09-06T16:34:23+0000  by Rottyfan

Hi.  Great thread here.   I see you can use a tapping block and double-sided tape for some of the end pieces.


Do you recommend using double-sided tape to hold the first row in place and perhaps reduce gaps from the floor moving during installation or does this prevent the expansion and void the warranty?   How well do you think 1/8 inch tile spacers would work for keeping the recommended gap?


Can you use a pull bar to get the final rows in tightly?


Would it be okay and/or helpful to use tar-paper under the flooring to reduce squeaks or will this cause other problems or really have no benefit?


For doing rip cuts along the length of the planks, could you use a table saw with a fine-toothed blade?  If so, should you also reverse the blade?


I am really counting on this to work as described and appreciate any help you can give.  Thanks!



Posted 2011-09-06T16:42:01+0000  by tonimariem

Hello Rottyfan,


Thanks for thinking about Allure Ultra, and welcome to the community!


As I stated in the previous thread before this one, we do not currently have transition strips for both our plank resilient flooring systems, Allure and Allure Ultra, but we do have alternatives.


In your situation, you are correct with knowing that the (typically) 3/4" thick stairnoses are going to be too thick when placing them beside your Allure Ultra planks. In saying that you have 3 options to do to keep your nice oak tread to match with the rest of your staircase.


1. Use a planer to take the stairnose down near or flush to the level of your Allure Ultra flooring. Allure Ultra is 20 mil thick already, or roughly .787 inches thick, Compare that to your .75 inches thick stairnose. Of course, depending on your subfloor, or how level the surface is, the stairnose could be higher than that.  To make the even adjustment, use an unfinished stairnose and plane down the bottom or top portion of the stairnose to ensure the stairnose will fit securely. Be aware the notch in the wood stairnose (which is meant for hardwood planks to go in) may need to be filled or covered up afterwards.


2. Install real wood as you stated in the hallway. This can make the stairway to hallway give a nicer transition, but consider the time and money put in versus just installing Allure Ultra planks. Bottom line, you can get a nice stairnose that is safe and nice looking without compromising your steps.


3. Install a metal or vinyl bullnose where the edges meet. Believe it or not, they do make very sleek and nice bullnoses today in metal or PVC vinyl to match or compliment any floor. In our stores, we sell a vinyl bullnose by Schluter in vinyl called RONDEC-STEP in-stock that can work for your edges. Below is a picture of it in more detail...


Now with the planks being a little thicker, you do have even more options that what we sell in the store by what we have available through special order. The same company makes 5 more profile options that are varying in color and substrate. To view them on their website, click here


So with your options, the best wood look would be using a wooden stairnose planed down then stained and finished to match the rest of your steps. For a contemporary look, you can use the metal or vinyl bullnoses shown above to give a clean edge there.


If you use a wood, metal, or vinyl stair/bull nose, be sure to make any adjustments whether they are higher or lower versus your Allure Ultra planks, If they are larger than 1/4" you can remedy this with either cutting or even using a wood filler to give a more rounded edge to the stairnose where it meets the Allure Ultra planks, but the selection and style at the end of the day is entirely up to you.


Hope this helps you out,







Posted 2011-09-06T17:31:26+0000  by Joseph_HD_ATL

Hello tonimariem,


Thanks for joining us here on the community!


Yep, you can use a tapping block, but keep in mind that doing the 15-20 degree angles will do the work for you, and only use the block alongside tough edges or sliding up the planks.


Only try to use the double-sided tape for smaller areas that keep popping up, because it can hinder the expansion, but if done in small amounts, it won't block it completely. If done correctly and kept at a minimum, it will not affect the integrity of the expansion of the floor, as long as the subfloor itself is in good, level, and dry shape.


As for using spacers, I would not recommend them as they are designed for square applications. For planks, I would recommend the spacers we use that are larger and easier to work with by Pergo. They are very effective for spacers and are much sturdier than tile spacers. Below is a picture of them....


Treat them like any other spacer, and remove them after the floor has been installed and before you place your quarter round or moulding to lock in the planks.


For using a pull bar, I would not recommend it in so much as the planks and giving yourself 1/4" margins from the walls should give you enough accessibility to get the rows in tightly. Only use the tapping block as mentioned previously since the pull bar is not designed for resilient (vinyl) plank systems, only laminate and real wood systems. Using it would lead to warping and unexpected results.


For using tar-paper or rosin/builders paper before you put down Allure Ultra, it would be entirely up to you in this instance.


 A floor is going to be only as strong as it's subfloor underneath, but builders paper at best would only cover the small imperfections and levels, but it would lead to a better and smoother working area. If you have any gouges, large areas that aren't level or even the squeaky floors as you stated, you would need to address those before putting down anything on top of your subfloor. I did a post a few months ago on squeaky wood floors, to get rid of them you can use a product listed on the post, to read more about it, click here!

Check to make sure any areas of the subfloor are level by using a level or even a chalk-line to see if there are any variances. Anything 1/2" or more should be addressed by using a floor leveler compound.


As for doing your rip cuts, I wouldn't advise to use a table saw with carbide teeth to cut your planks, as I stated earlier in this thread a sharp knife and good metal straight edge are the best things to use! That's not to say you can use table saw with a fine-toothed (60 tooth or higher) but the high speed against a vinyl surface can and most likely will gunk up your blades. One thing I have found is by using a product we sell in flooring called the Floor Boar Laminate Cutting System. I did a video of it in action earlier this year, to see it cut planks, click here

The Floor Boar has a reversible blade allowing for the plank to be backed out smoothly. If this isn't an option or doing the knife/straight edge, we do carry a good selection of other manual laminate cutters online as well. You can view those by clicking here


Hope this answers your questions and anymore, please do not hesitate to ask,









Posted 2011-09-06T18:34:27+0000  by Joseph_HD_ATL

I finished putting in the flooring in a hallway, closets, dining room and kitchen.   The transition were tough to work out but I think I got it done okay in the end.  For some areas,  I used pine slats underneath metal or wood transition pieces to raise them enough to not pinch the flooring.   If I had to go through the flooring, I marked the position for the nail/screw and drilled a 1/4" hole to let the floor float if it had to.


For cutting, the scoring worked ok for short runs.   Using heavy duty shears (tinner's snips?) helped for intricate patterns and a good vinyl tile cutter worked well for straight cuts to length (make sure it's a good one).  Cutting with a sabre saw did okay but took a heavy toll on the blades.   Based on that, I did not try table saws or compound saws.


I used a drywall T-square and a 1"x6" board about 5 feet long when doing rip-type scoring cuts.   Lining up the plank with the dry wall square with both aligned with the short end of the board made things easier.  Also for a long rip cut across the entire length of a plank, after scoring I put the plank face down at a slight angle with the waste part of the plank against the board and used this to push against to bend the tile and complete the rest of the cut.   That was vastly easier than trying to push it just using both hands.  The planks are pretty tough.


Mostly it was just like installing regular laminate except if was more forgiving of minor deficiencies in the flooring it went over and of course is waterproof.  


Let's hope it wears well now.



Posted 2011-09-22T16:20:15+0000  by tonimariem

Hey again tonimariem!


Thanks for giving us the update on your floor, including your solving the problem of transitions and the great idea of screwing through the floor first to allow it to float :smileyhappy:


You brought up a great point when it comes to installing this stuff; it's a lot like installing floating laminate flooring. Except not using the underlayment, of course.


Also, I'm glad you shared your insights in terms of cutting it, and it made me smack my head forgetting the vinyl tile cutter we sell! Ours only cuts to 12", but it works great at making short run cuts as you say, below is a pic of it more detail.....

vinyl tile cutter.JPG


Again tonimariem, thanks for your updates and if you would like to post pictures of your updated flooring in your hallway, closets, dining room and kitchen...that would be great. It's always good to see know-how and a great product come together and done right.






Posted 2011-09-24T15:42:46+0000  by Joseph_HD_ATL

We are still in the process of completing the job....and love our new flooring...

What is the recommended treatment for the doorways.

I have carpet in the bedrooms in a basement, so matching up to the carpet, what is the transition piece between the

2 floorings. Does allure ultra have a piece that butts up to the edge?

Posted 2011-10-11T03:15:34+0000  by dredlinger

Hello dredlinger,


Thanks for choosing Allure Ultra, and welcome to the community!


Room transitions for Allure are a big question we get a lot here, and when I'm in the store assisting my customers.

Currently, we do not have a transition strip/piece that butts up against the edge of a room transition or mouldings either that is manufactured by Allure or Allure Ultra. But the great news is that you can get the exact strip you want by matching up the color/finish to it in either a real wood or laminate flooring transition strip kits we sell! Best of all, we have metal and even marble transitions to finish the look of your floor.


If the Allure Ultra is butted up against the carpet and the subfloor heights are level, one of the most stylish and easiest ways to put down a transition that is called a carpet gripper by M-D, shown in the first picture below. I did a post earlier in the year regarding the most common transition pieces for floors, by clicking on the picture below it will take you straight to it to learn more.

M-D transition strips.JPG


Hopefully this should get you on your way to complete the floors you love!






Posted 2011-10-15T17:42:36+0000  by Joseph_HD_ATL

We have 12x12 tile we'd love to install the allure planks over in our kitchen so we can redo our kitchen layout. The grout is fairly level with the tiles. Do we need to use underlayment or skimcoat under the allure?

Posted 2011-10-16T22:09:14+0000  by mcointreau
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