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Vinyl floor installation questions

I am planning a vinyl floor installation for my kitchen.  I like the floating vinyl plank systems offered.  My current vinyl floor has an embossed pattern in the vinyl.  I know this will show through on the new floor if I go directly over it.  Is there a product that can be applied over the existing vinly to fill these shallow voids?  Also, can sealer be used in spots where the 1/8" gap can not be concealed by quarter round moulding?  I have an forced air plenum on the floor that I may have to bring the flooring materiel right up to rather than underneath it.  Thanks!

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Posted 2011-06-25T21:25:37+0000  by Nick_M Nick_M
 

HI there Nick and welcome to the community!

 

I like the floating tiles to. They are really an ultimate DIY product that will allow you to finish your kitchen floor in less than a day. How would you compare that to ceramic tiles and all of the prep work needed plus the grout.

 

Embossment showing thru …

I’m not sure what specific type of vinyl you have down right now but most of the vinyl tiles I’ve came across so far did not  have deep enough of  embossment that could possibly show thru Allure. I’ve also talked this thru with our flooring expert on the community aboveaveragejoe and he agreed that standard vinyl embossment will not show thru the Allure.

 

To show thru, embossment would have to be 1/8” of an inch and greater. I would test this by placing a plank over one section of the floor. It is recommended to roll over the seams after installation for better adhesion; use the same roller to test the above mentioned test plank on the existing floor.

 

If the embossment DOES show thru you can use a thin mixture of the Jiff Set patch to skim over the existing vinyl tiles.

jif set patch.jpg

 

Expansion gaps outside the baseboards …

These can be sealed with flexible silicone caulking preferably color matching the floor to create an illusion of the “no gap” seamless installation.

Although I like the idea of removing an air grille more than butt up joint around it.

 

Hope this helps and thank you for stopping by the community.

 

George



Posted 2011-06-27T15:29:03+0000  by George_HD_CHI

Thanks George,  after posting that question I did see on the allure website that they say embossing will not show through unless it 1/8" or greater.  I should not have a problem.  I think I can get the air grill out to make a neater install.  I do have an end cabinet (faced with formica from countertop to floor) that I would prefer not to attach quarter round to.  Do you think I can get away with no expansion gap in this little spot or should I do the 1/8" expansion with the sealant to smooth it out?

Nick

Posted 2011-06-28T03:14:43+0000  by Nick_M

You are welcome Nick.

 

I don’t think you'll have any problem going right up against the cabinet. That is a small section and as long there is room for the floor to move on the adjacent side you should be just fine.

 

But even if you go with no gap you will still have to caulk that section so that water can’t get in while mopping the floors and stuff.You don't want water to stay stuck to long  in between formica and vinyl.

Also post some picture once you're done. You need to get some credit for all of that hard work :smileyvery-happy:

 

George

 



Posted 2011-06-28T16:21:05+0000  by George_HD_CHI

HI

i'm new to this. We are planning to put down floating vinyl tiles over plywood. 

1) If we decide in the future that we want to remove the tiles and finish the plywood nicely, will we be able to do that, or will the wood be ruined?

 

2) The room we want to put the floating vinyl tiles in gets quite cold in the winter.  Before we put down the floating vinyl, is there some kind of layer or two that we can put down to provide some insulation (it's built over a crawl space).

Any help would be appreciated.  My email address is Raock718@aol.com. Thank you.

Posted 2011-07-08T03:42:24+0000  by Raock718

Hey there Raock718,

 

Welcome to the community!~

 

For your first question, you will be just fine doing that. The floating vinyl Allure planks do not have any glue that will actually be adhering to your subfloor, just to itself. So that way when you remove it later on, your subfloor should be just how you left it.

 

As far as the cold is concerned, the adhesive is actually rated to withstand up to 15° F (-10° C.) Just make sure that when you are installing the product, it is at least about 60° F, that way the glue sets properly. Should you ever have any problems with the glue during the winter, a heat gun or hairdryer will do the trick. It's a heat-set glue, so that will help rejuvenate the bonding agent so you can reset it. 

 

With padding, I wouldn't recommend the traditional foam padding as used for laminate floors. It will just make the floor move around due to the slickness of the visquine. You could however opt to place additional layering of plywood sub were you to have adequate space for it. That will definitely help insulate. You can also go for better insulation in the crawlspace itself, since you are a bit limited on what you can use under the floor itself. SteelToes also did a write up about better insulating for crawls if you'd like to check it out here!

 

Hope that helps you out and best of luck with it!~

Posted 2011-07-08T13:50:56+0000  by Jay_HD_CHI

Hi, I'm planning to install Allure plank flooring in a bathroom. The tub is from the 50's with an offset curve at the front. The tub is flush to the baseboard and then come's out about 2in into the room and then back again. It's hard to explain. It kind of looks like this \_______/ . Putting quarter round around the front won't work do I use caulk to seal it? Also in the future I may have to have the tub converted to a shower. My 90 year old father lives there and it might be easier to have a shower only. Anyway can the planks in front of the tub be removed to install a shower or will I have to do the whole floor over again? Thanks Esther 

Posted 2011-07-11T14:56:22+0000  by elfritz1

Hello Esther,

 

I know exactly what you are talking about. Your tub looks like this right?

 

 mittered.JPG

You can make quarter round and caulk work with this design. To fit the quarter round you would have to “miter” the corners around the offset. For more information on mitering and mouldings click on this  Project Guide.

 

To calk around the edge of the bathtub use mold and mildew resistant caulking. Apply a bead under the last plank and over the top in between the tub and edge of the plank. In addition try to keep a small gap (1/8”-3/16”) in between a plank and the tub so there is something for caulk to grab to and allow for expansion and contraction.

Planks can be trimmed at the later date to accommodate for the shower stall with no problems.

 

Hope this helps and please don’t hesitate to ask more questions.

 

George

Posted 2011-07-11T16:35:49+0000  by George_HD_CHI

Yes his tub does look like that. Thank you that helps a lot. We are thinking about removing the tub at a later date can the planks at the front be removed? Would I use a hairdryer to loosen them? I don't think I would want to trim them. Esther

Posted 2011-07-11T16:51:04+0000  by elfritz1

Hey elfritz1!

 

When it comes to removing Allure planks, simply pick a edge and start removing them by bending them back and peeling them apart from each other, it's that easy! You will need to remove the edge moulding as well in order to get a firm grip on removing them. Getting a pry bar or hammer will work for you as well to get that first plank out. In case one or two get damaged, always have some extra pieces in storage just in case that happens.

 

Now as your reinstalling them, it can be done, but the Grip Strip, the adhesive on the planks, may of lost their adhesion. I did an earlier post on getting double sided tape and other Allure accessories, it can be found here

 

You can also use small amounts of indoor/outdoor double sided tape as well that we sell in our paint department. You won't need a lot, as the tape is pretty strong and is double sided as well. No matter what you use, be sure they are clean and free of dirt and debris before reapplying them back onto the floor.

 

SteelToes already gave a great description of the moulding edging of the floor where it meets the tub/shower, but if I may, I did a post not too long ago with a detailed diagram that shows what to use to keep the moulding down where it touches the shower. The diagram is shown below....

alluretub.JPG

If you need to trim them, simply use a utility knife and score and cut the areas you don't want. Allure is a great product for your floors, and it is one of the few you can use over and over if you are doing a remodel and need to reuse them.

 

Hope this helps you out,

aboveaveragejoe

Posted 2011-07-11T18:00:34+0000  by Joseph_HD_ATL

I am installing a vinyl floating floor in a new bathroom.  I looked up manufacturer installation tips and found one reference to taping the edge to the subfloor right up next to the tub or shower and sealing with caulk.  I would like to run the flooring under the shower pan, is there a problem with doing this?

Posted 2012-10-19T19:46:33+0000  by Shannab
 
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