After a fire at my rental property the contractor that the insurance company hired did not install a drain for the washing machine. Because of where the sewer line is in the house the washinchine and A/C condensation line drain into a supm and are then pumped up to the main stack. I hae a plan to use PVC to run a line over to the sump it for the washing machine. The red line in the picture represents the location where to PVC will go. I will also be getting a new sump cover. I was also thinking of using a solid duct for the dryer instead of the flex line that is there now. What are your thoughts on this plan?
Hi GSmith, this is Mike The Home Depot Answer Man. Welcome to the community.
Be sure to check with your local building department to determine what the local code requires for your drain. Since this is a rental property, following code requirements is important.
One note, I would not locate the drain directly below the hot and cold water supply. This will pose a problem with interference between the shut offs and the drain hose.
Secondly make sure the stand pipe is at least 39 inch above the floor. Most washers require this height to drain properly.
Be sure to use the proper size pipe. Check with your local building department for the required size.
Also I would assemble the drain pipe with a removable end at the sump pump. This will allow access if the pump needs repair or replacement.
The dryer vent should be of solid metal duct, flexible hose tends to collect lint that can pose potential fire problems.
Your local building department can give all of these specific requirements for your job, follow them and your project will go smoothly!
I hope these ideas are useful to you.
Sound advice from Mike here, he's bringing up some valid points.
I just wanted to chime in with some thoughts here.
I think your contractor left the drain out because of the proximity of the sump pump. They were probably counting on you simply extending the washer drain hose right in to the pit.
That’s somewhat fine with an exception that anytime washer it’s in drain cycle it will shoot a stream of water right on to the sump pump float switch, which will send a wrong signal to the pump. In other words pump it’s going to work anytime washer drains even if the water level in the pit is low. Also another one to worry about with this installation is pump not working at all and water overflowing.
Even If you decide to leave things they are right now, I would at least put a piece of short pipe in to the pit (bellow the float or 3”-4” from the bottom of the pit) and then tap a drain hose in to it so that when the washer drains it rises the water level in the pit gradually.
My thoughts on the new installation;
My recommendation would be to discharge your washer directly in to the sewer line.
Most manufacturers will often allow the discharge pipe to be connected to a drain 5' or higher from the outlet of the machine. One way to bypass this is to build a stand. In other words it may be possible, given your machine and local codes to simply run the discharge pipe in to your sewer line.
Couple things to note with this installation;
The drain must go vertically at least 24" or so above the horizontal branch and then connect to it with a trap above that level.
A washing machine must discharge into a stand pipe by way of an air break.
P trap or and S trap need to be installed in between standpipe and contaminated water.
Those were my thoughts when it comes to new installation, as war as the existing setup goes I would suggest making couple changes.
First you should really have a clean out tee where you main sewer line exits the house.
You will thank me five years from now. Second if the 3” 90 in the top left corner is for the toilet (and I’m almost certain it is looking at the layout) there should be some kind of vent within 5’ feet from it. Receptacle for the sump pump should be GFCI (ground fault circuit).Also I would add some steel straps instead of plastic J hooks on that 2” pipe that’s running by the breaker panel, plastic hooks tend to break easily, and last thing you need is that 2” pipe to come out of the rubber check valve and to start spraying on to the breaker panel.
As far as the dryer duct goes ,solid it’s definitely better, but you CANNOT use screws to connect fittings, screws tend to collect lint, you need to use clamps(flex) or UL listed aluminum tape. Honestly I would not waste that flex pipe I would just add 2 elbows to it or a dryer box.
Hope this helps.