Sign In to join the community | Help

Water base primer with Acrylic latex paint

My parents just painted the bathroom with Water base primer with Acrylic latex paint

all red my mom wanted the ceiling to be white.  I got Acrylic primer and Acrylic paint.

I went to give the ceiling a light sanding and the paint started peeling off in big sections.  Was it bad that they used water based primer with Latex paint?

Not what you were looking for ? Try posting a question
Posted 2012-02-20T20:58:04+0000  by glenab16 glenab16

Hello Glen - thanks for stopping by.


   It sounds like you did everything right with the priming and painting.  A lot can contribute to the situation you experienced. For instance - deep colored paints have lots of tint in them. This sometimes slows down the cure time and will cause the paint to break away when agitated too soon.


   I recommend letting the ceiling dry and cure for a couple of days before attempting to sand again.  If the problem continues then it could possibly be caused by some kind of film still present under the prime coat. Wallpaper glue, hair spray, and soap residue from steam are some of the culprits.


When all else fails - just re-prime with an oil based primer to seal whatever is causing the problem.


Hope this helps.

Posted 2012-02-20T21:27:58+0000  by Kevin_HD_ATL

they did use plaster to patch some cracks.  the primer can said to let plaster cure for 30 days before using primer.  That may be the problem.


When do you use water base primer?

and when is it better to use latex base primer?

Posted 2012-02-21T00:13:35+0000  by glenab16

Your conclusion (re: plaster needs 30-days to cure) seems exactly right Glenab!!


It may be a lesson in materials as well as painting.


Typically, you would use "like" materials when you repair / patch.


What this means is use sheetrock mud to patch sheetrock walls and plaster to patch plaster walls.


The other problem you encounter when you "mix" repair materials is the expansion rate of the wall will be different than the patch.


The result: the seam between the repair and the wall tends to crack ... exposing the flaw again.


You will also see this when a DIYer used caulk to fill a nail hole ... the caulk shrinks and the hole becomes concave and very visible.


As for dry-time, more paint projects have to be re-done after the installer fails to follow manufacturer's instructions. I always tell my customers, "The manufacturer spent a great amount of time and effort developing instructions to ensure project success ... simply follow those instructions and you'll greatly increase you success rate on the first try!"


FINALLY: The words "Water-base" and "Latex" are synonymous ... essentially different words for basically the same thing. The big difference in primer is between water-base and oil-base ... oil primer seals water stains, but water primer will not. When water-base primer (or paint) is applied over a water stain, the stain will commonly bleed back through.


So, use oil-based primer to seal water stains and then "use any topcoat (water or oil) after the primer dries."

Posted 2012-02-21T15:24:42+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL

 I would be interested in knowing just what specific water based primer was used. Was it a PVA drywall primer, or was it a premium grade wall primer such as Gripper or Behr No.75 Enamel undercoater.  If either the Gripper or Behr's #75 were used, I doubt it would have peeled back without some effort.


I would further like to know what was originally painted over? Was it a high gloss paint, especially a high gloss oil paint? If it were oil paint, I would definitely have used the oil primer. In either event, the high gloss should have been dulled with sanding , TSP or a de-glosser.


During my contracting days, when I encountered gloss oil paint in kitchens or baths, I preferred to stay with the oil, precisely because of potential adhesion problems. Oil is also superior in very high humidity situations as found in baths.


As to adhesion with dark colors: it has been my observation that complaints with these coolrant saturated dark colors far outnumber complaints with light colors having little colorant in them.


I personally doubt that whatever was used for patching had any involvement with the adhesion. The 30 day warnings are more for leeching out staining of the alkalies therein. Here again, it would be interesting to know exactly what was used.  My patching product of choice was DuraBond Easy Sand 20 "hot mud", due to its fast drying, easy sanding, and extremely good adhesion, even when patching slick plaster. Products such as "Spackle" (the actual trademarked spackling compound by the Muralo company) did not stick all that well to plaster, especially where it feathered out thinly onto the existing plaster.


Years ago, the paint industry tried to introduce the term" water borne" for water soluable paint. Alas, the term "latex" has become as generic as Kleenex for facial tissue, and their mission  failed. To my knowledge, latex resins have not been in "latex" paints since the 60's. The early Glidden paints did have latex resins and were not compatible with early generation acrylic paints. Mixing different paints 50 years ago often got you instant cottage cheese in the bucket!

Posted 2012-02-22T05:45:21+0000  by ordjen
Not what you were looking for ? Try posting a question