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calking or grout?

is their a proper way to seal between the top rolled flat edge of the stainless steel sink and the granite countertop that sits on top. the tile workers that did the work, did a poor job of sealing it with a calking gun and sparce silicone. i plan to scrape it all out, so is there a recommended way to seal this gap? any suggestions are appreciated...jeremiah

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Posted 2012-12-19T21:55:46+0000  by jeremiah jeremiah
 

It's a great day in the Paint Department Jeremiah!

 

Grout is commonly used stone-to-stone or tile-to-tile; areas where the materials expand and contract at similar rates.

 

It is uncommon to find grout between materials that expand and contract at different rates ... in your case, stainless steel and granite.

 

Grout must also be sealed every few years to provide a water-resistant barrier.

 

HOW TO: Silicone (100 percent silicone rubber) is both flexible and waterproof when cured. GE Kitchen and Bath Silicone II is exactly that kind of product. It is most flexible and will maintain a rubber water barrier for years.

GE Silicone II Kitchen and Bath.jpgUse this for a flexible, water-tight seal.

 

Don't be confused by water-based "look-a-like" products that are labeled "Kitchen and Bath." These products are not flexible when cured and often wash out when exposed to water. These "water clean-up" products ARE NOT what you need!

 

The simple way to tell which will remain most flexible is to look for the words "solvent-based" on the label or look for the words "Clean Up With Mineral Spirits" on the instructions. Products with these words on are label ARE what you need. These "solvent-based" products remain flexible and will not wash out when exposed to water.

 

FINALLY: While silicone rubber caulk is often labeled "adhesive," it is not typically strong enough to attach a sink to the bottom of your granite counter top. Most installers use two-part epoxy between the surfaces and they suspend the sink in place overnight to ensure the bond cures. If your sink is adhered well, proceed with silicone rubber caulk to make a water-tight seal.

Posted 2012-12-20T15:50:48+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL

 

Jerimiah,

 

Silicon caulk is about as durable a caulk as there isfor this purpose. The problem comes in removing it. NOTHING sticks to silicone, including new silicone! You have to do more that scrape off the bulk of the residue. All the residue must be removed.

 

After the bulk of the old silcone is scraped or cut off, use 3M scrubby pads to help get the remaining residue. Isoprople alcohol ( medical alcohol from the drugstore, not denatured ) will also help remove the residue. Fortunately you have durable surfaces to clean. Removing silicone from modern fiberglas and plastic tubs is really a problem without dulling the surface.

Posted 2012-12-21T03:25:50+0000  by ordjen

Asa  sidebar conversation to this, how can I get the black mold/mildew to not build up on the silicon?  That is the only I problem I have experienced in using silicon.

 

Thanks,

Abe 

Posted 2013-01-03T22:44:08+0000  by aqdillman71

 

aqdillman71,

 

If you are using the GEII Kitchen and Bath Silicon which is shown in the above post, you should not have a mold problem. The K&B Silicon contains mildecides and comes with a 5 year no mold guarantee.

 

As to cleaning your existing caulk: try cleaning it with Clorox Clean-Up. This product is a combination of strong bleach and a detergent in a spray bottle. It is available in the cleaning section of the Home Depot. Careful, it has enough bleach to make white spots on your blue jeans!

Posted 2013-01-04T03:20:17+0000  by ordjen
 
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