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<div><a class="irc_mil i3597" target="_blank" href="http://gardenclub.homedepot.com/train-cucumbers-grow/" style="color: rgb(102, 0, 153); text-decoration: none; font-family: Roboto, arial, sans-serif; font-size: small; font-style: normal; text-align: center; background-color: rgb(34, 34, 34);"><img class="irc_mi" src="http://gardenclub.homedepot.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/Train-Your-Cucumbers-to-Grow-Up-Hero.jpg" alt="Related image" width="580" height="330" style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"></img></a><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; color: #7F7F7F;">What is a tendril?</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; color: #7F7F7F;"><br></span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; color: #7F7F7F;">Simply defined, a tendril is a thread like, spiraling, flexible growth that protrudes from the nodes of a vining plant. Tendrils help the plant connect and take hold of a structure to support vertical and horizontal growth of the plant, above the ground.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; color: #7F7F7F;"><br></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; color: #7F7F7F;">Grapes are a good example of a plant that depend on tendrils to climb and latch onto arbors and trellises, cucumbers are quick climbers using tendrils to attach to support systems, and anything they can grab  in the garden. It is amazing how much weight the tiny fibrous threads can hold up!</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; color: #7F7F7F;"><br></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; color: #7F7F7F;">Tendrils are always reaching to support the flowers, fruits and vegetables on their vines!</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; color: #7F7F7F;"><br></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; color: #7F7F7F;">Get support right here, do you have a garden question, let us help!</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><font color="#7f7f7f" face="Arial, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 16px;">Maureen</span></font></p></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div>
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Posted 2012-09-18T15:39:32+0000  by womanwithtools womanwithtools

Oh... I am confused.  This morning my s/o is going to HD, so I ask him to p/u some Spar Urethane for me.  He says, "Oh! it's a great product!"  He has used it on his sailboat's brightwork (teak woodwork, for you non-marine folks).  He also picked up a spare gallon can, and thinner, so we can mix it, because we need to put at least three coats on, and they need to be thinned so they'll adhere properly.  Is this true??  This is not a sailboat, exposed to the worst of all weather conditions, all the time.  It's a stable.  The E and W ends are exposed to sunlight daily, when the end doors are open (most of the time), and might be exposed to rain if the doors on the ends of the stable are left open during a storm (not likely).

 

THREE coats???  I'm covering 752 square feet of T&G.  It doesn't sound like a lot, but it's 7- 8'x10' and 6- 4'x8' walls, so sanding, painting with a brush, letting it dry, x 3, is a much bigger job than I originally anticipated.  Maybe I should have built with PT T&G and just had a green-tinted barn.   

 

I'm planning an addition to this barn, with five more stalls, and A LOT more T&G.  If I'm going to have to sand the walls, and then put on three coats of polyurethane, then I need a different plan.

 

Thanks for your assistance and moral support.

 

 

Posted 2012-09-28T02:04:25+0000  by womanwithtools

womanwithtools,

 

I am a great believer in following the directions on the can. However, many varnishes do advise thinning the first coat a little for better penetration. As far as sanding: of course the wood should be initially sanded to make it smooth. After the first coat of varnish, it is lightly sanded to lay down the grain which is slightly lifted. The following coat(s) are not normnally sanded.

 

The wood will not look good after only one coat. The second coat will even out its sheen and make it look pretty good. The third coat builds up the film thickness to ensure long term durability. If this were a marine application, then yes, the third coat is very important. However, in your case I think it might be overkill, but for appearance, two coats is a minimum.

Posted 2012-09-28T07:26:26+0000  by ordjen

Hey WomanWithTools,

 

Ordjen "Nailed It" ... three coats for durability.

 

That's why I recommended the Transparent Weather Proofing Wood Finish earlier ... it is a penetrating sealer that does not require sanding between coats. A gallon covers approximately 400 square-feet and two coats are recommended.

 

Penetrating sealers provide protection as well as color ... in your case, Natural 500 will make only a slight difference in the color of the wood.

 

Behr Transparent Weather Proofing Natural.jpg

 

Most important, it is simple to refresh and/or maintain the coating ... simply clean with a mildewcide, rinse, and apply a fresh coat.

 

Take time to reconsider this exterior grade product ... it will give you everything you get from Spar except the sanding and the required third coat, but with much easier application and much less odor, expense, and labor.

Posted 2012-10-02T14:00:18+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL
I have to build a horse stall just one for one horse outside what do I need to do this ? Not sure really how to do it my husband won't help me so I am asking Thanks
Posted 2013-07-22T23:55:01+0000  by DeniseS
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