I have a square patio table that was broken in a storm and I want to replace the glass with something else. I was thinking of a tile mosaic. How would I do this and what would I use? Any help is grealty appreciated.
Outstanding Renovation diy_sahm!
Wood comes in numerous grades ... some more weather resistant and other much less.
Removing the tile should be relatively simple.
Measuring and cutting the wood should also be a standard practice.
Once fitted in place, you'll need to secure with either brass wood screws (which will not rust) and/or construction adhesive.
Be careful when applying adhesive to prevent build-up on the surface to be painted.
Glueing to the table frame would be your best bet.
Prime the entire project with Rust-Oleum Clean Metal Primer ... this oil-based primer it is suitable for both wood and metal.
And then use an exterior oil-based paint in your color of choice to finish the job.
Oils self-level if left to dry for six-hours or more.
So, take your time between coats and expect to apply at least two top coats.
Lightly sand with 220-grit sandpaper between coats and remove dust with a dry terry towel.
You should get many years of service out of this renovation.
Don't forget to seal any exposed areas on the bottom of the table to prevent the wood from absorbing moisture.
I have a round (48inch) patio table with a tile top. The tile is cracking and I would like to replace the top. I'm thinking I would like to use wood so I can paint it. Any suggestions?
Self-leveling compound is commonly used to fill valleys in floors before flooring is installed.
This type product is sold both in your Flooring Department and in Building Materials near the masonry products.
If this quick fix does not appeal, have a look at our new line of patio furniture.
I replace mine every several years for a fresh, clean look.
This is great information! Thanks aboveaveragejoe!
I have a somewhat unique situation, maybe. We own a round patio table that was purchased with a mosaic top. Unfortunately, it was left outside, water got underneath the tiles, froze and all of the small glass tiles broke off of the table top. The rim of the table is now higher than the surface, and the surface is rough and messy from the thinset that previously held the tiles.
I'm trying to find a way to fix this without re-doing a mosaic. Honestly, I just don't have the time for it. Is there a resin or compound of some sort that I could use to fill in the table top so you can't see the rough thinset mess and can be done in the course of an hour or two (not counting drying time)?
Thanks for your question and welcome to the community!
You are in luck, we carry a plethora of patio furniture online and seasonally in our stores! Simply click on the beautiful seating set below, and it will take you directly to our patio furniture main page :
Hope this helps you out, and have a great day!
Thanks again Craig for getting us these great questions!
DYIprojectLover: This is a project that can easily be done, and you have lots of options to achieve the face lift for your faux terra cotta planters. Since it is a plastic, most ready-to-use thin-set mortars and mastics won't stick to the surface, so try out the SimpleMat that was previously shown on this thread that I posted.
It's thin, sticks very well, and can be cut easily to fit your planters. Since the adhesive is very effective, make sure you know exactly where you plan do put down the mosaic pieces before placing them on the surface. SimpleMat is very sticky and is next to impossible to remove the tiles once their down, so this step is important.
I hope this helps you out, and good luck on your project!
Thanks for relying that question over HomeDepotCraig!
And Pam, thanks for joining us here online!
She has a great idea for making her wrought iron table new again with a unique mosaic, and it can be done. If you decide to place backerboard on top of it, it would need to be thin (1/4" thickness) as stated in my original post above this one, and done so that the final combination of backerboard/adhesives/tiles/grout will be in flush with the rest of the table.
I recommended to use backerboard and plywood to the other user since they had no table top at all, save for the frame. If you already have the table top, I'd be concerned that the tiles could be set up high, leaving sharp edges over the top. This problem can be solved with careful grouting sometimes, but the end result is to get the table top as flush as possible.
Another option to use instead of tile backerboard if the table still has the top on it, is to use one of 2 items we sell that is shown below. These are much thinner options and will give you the most flush finish for your table. Please note that the 2nd option isn't rated for outdoor use.
This option above maybe too large for your project, but I recommend it since it will give you a thin layer to apply any tiles you choose on top of it.
The option below is for an interior-only base. It is easy to install and skips the step of placing any thin-set mortar down before you set the mosaic. Be warned though, make sure you have a layout for your mosaics first. The adhesive on these aren't very forgiving; once they stick to the tiles, they are stuck for good.
Just like our previous customers response, this project can be done easily and effectively. If you have an existing table top already, these two options above will suffice to get the mosaic thats right for you.
We posted these mosaic table top instructions on the Apron blog, and it's getting a big response... including several follow up questions.
Here's one from DYIprojectLover:
"Great idea. many a poly resin table has ended up in a landfill because it needed a face lift. Who knew or thought of doing something like this? My question for you is this. I woulld like to do a similar project on my large faux terra cotta planters. This poly resin material is so much lighter than actual terra cotta and I want to do some original mosaic designs on the outside of the planters.
Do you know if the glue you spoke of using could be used to effectively and permantly hold down the tile to the poly surface and would grout work on the surface?
Thanks for you help! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Happy days!
-Craig, from the Apron blog
This is such a great project idea, that we shared it on the Apron blog.
It prompted a question from reader Pam:
"I have a small metal or wrought iron round table. Can I put backer board on a metal table and then make a design with broken dishes or glass tiles?"
That sounds like a cool idea. What does Pam need to do?
-Craig, from the Apron blog