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plaster peeling/drywall repair

Start off by saying I have never done this before, have experience sanding cars/bondo repairs, welding, metal fabrication.

There was a hole in the wall and the edge of the drywall was broken into pieces. It doesn't look like this house had quality work done.

I need some specifics please and appreciate any help.

How do I repair this? I would guess that the wall has a sand/plaster mix on it? Stucco? This area was once a florida room patio. Now its a family room and bedroom. Thats why it looks like there was a door there. Stucco all around the house. Concrete block structure. Also those holes were some type of anchors while I was peeling off the rest of the loose plaster to clean it up.

I added pics.



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Posted 2012-11-08T13:08:34+0000  by jayxsoul jayxsoul

Hello jayxsoul.  Welcome to the Community!


Thanks for the pictures.  They really help identify the problem.


I think you should start with the doorway.  You have the right idea in using drywall as it will be the easiest way to "fill in" the space.  Before you do that though, you need to add a sill plate at the bottom of the doorway and another stud in the middle.  Otherwise the drywall will span too great a distance without support.  The doorway construction looks like 2x6's, but use whatever lumber to match what is there now.  I assume that this is not an outside wall.  If it is insulation should be used before you drywall over it.  I prefer using drywall screws over nails.  Buy 1 5/8" coarse thread screws and try and sink the heads just slightly into the drywall without breaking the paper.  There are special drywall bits for you drill that can help you do this, but you won't need them if you take your time and screw each one in carefully.


It looks like you will have to cut away a little more of the plaster on the right side of the doorway to give the new drywall a place to grab the wall on that edge.


For your initial patching of the drywall edges, and the holes as well, I would use a dry mix joint compound.  This type sets up to a rock hard plaster/cement patch.  The downside is that despite its name, it is not easy to sand compared to the premix compounds that just dry out to set.  Use the premix for your final coat(s) after you have filled in as much area as possible using the dry mix.


SHEETROCK Joint Compound.jpg

PreMix Joint Compound.jpg


The dry mix comes in 20, 45 and 90 minute set time variants.  I would avoid the 20 since you have not done this before.


Yes, it looks like you have plaster walls, where the white finish coat has been damaged, but the brown base coat is still in good shape.  I think that you can just use drywall compound over this area to bring the level back to its original.  Wet the base coat with a spray water bottle before you trowel on the mix, and use a straight edge like a 2x4 to make sure it does not extend past the good edges on both sides.  Once this has set you can touch up areas that need further filling in with the premix compound.  Do your final sanding, and don't forget to use a good quality primer on that whole area before you paint.


Is this what you are looking for?  Don't hesitate to ask if there's anything else we can help you with.





Posted 2012-11-09T21:26:03+0000  by Chris_HD_CHI

Thanks! The work is almost done. Think it was 2 coats of dry mix, the two vertical sides of drywall taped. Just have to tape horizontally on the top edge. One or two coats of pre-mix going over everything, hopefully not too much sanding.


I really appreciate the help. Thanks again.


The next project is repair cement / drywall around a door frame, install new casing and new door. I'll post that within the next day or so. I think its a 30x80. Plan on buying a prehung door/casing. My only concern is the repair. Its the same material, the brown case coat is damaged. Portland cement? I'll actually just add a couple pics now.20121030_135238.jpg20121030_135253.jpg

Posted 2012-11-10T21:10:44+0000  by jayxsoul

Hey jayxsoul.


Great job!


For your doorway project I think you will find the going even easier.  The doorway sides can be repaired using the same combination of dry mix followed by a premix top coat.  Portland cement is one raw material which is mixed with others to make a variety of cement based products.  The typical "brown" coat would be made of Portland, sand, and lime.  It would be like a masonry/mortar mix with additional lime added.  Don't bother with this for your repair.  Just use the same drywall repair mix and water to patch the doorway area.  Most of it will be behind your finished door casing anyway.  Given the first repair you did to wall off a doorway, this should be a snap for you to do.


The area along the door top edge concerns me though.  It appears that there is no solid support for the original plaster where it has fallen away.  To apply any fix to the wall without having a wood support there will just repeat the problem you have now.  You also will need to support the top of the door frame with a header.  There is a header framed in, but is much higher than the current wall.  Measure the height of your door frame to determine where/what you will need to do to install your new prehung door.  I will re-print a short instruction sheet that Home Depot has on prehung door installation.  The rough opening information is not precise, but when you buy the door you want ask the Millwork specialist what he (or she) recommends.  No sense repairing the door top until you know how high the header needs to be.  Also check the rough opening width as well.  I suspect that this doorway originally had a slab installed, so make sure you have the space available for the prehung door to fit properly.


Prehung Door 1.png

Prehung Door 2.png



Let us know how it goes.  We're here to help.





Posted 2012-11-13T16:38:51+0000  by Chris_HD_CHI
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