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How to applay and how long of time before painting
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Posted 2012-10-05T21:09:24+0000  by guillen guillen

Hello guillen.  Welcome to the Community!


Primer, can be brushed, (or some form of wiping), sprayed or rolled on to a surface.  Which you choose depends on what you are covering.


How long to wait before you can paint depends on the primer you have chosen.  The label on the primer will tell you the minimum time to wait before painting.


If you could tell us more about the project you are working on we can be more helpful.





Posted 2012-10-09T15:18:20+0000  by Chris_HD_CHI

I need help.

My project is to paint a bathroom with some mold.

The surface is drywall with texture painted light green.

I asked the painting department about the mold problem and they suggested to use BIN primer and then Kilz2.

I decided to use zinsser bulls eye 1-2-3 primer and kilz2. I asked to tint the kilz2 of the color I want (light yellow).

I cleaned the mold off the walls and roof. And applied the first coat of bull eye 1-2-3 primer. It looks that it need another coat of primer. I have plenty amount of primer.

I bought only 1Qt of kilz2, thinking one coat be enough.

I just realized that Kilz2 is also primer


1 coat could be enough to get a nice color? And don't paint it.?

Should I get paint instead? And discard the kilz2?

Or apply the kilz2 and get paint to paint it over?

Thank you very much.

Posted 2012-12-20T18:06:12+0000  by Miguel91706

Hello Miguel91706.  Welcome to the Community!


It seems to me that the main issue here is that you have 2 types of primer and no paint.


If you are satisfied that the one coat of primer you have used is sufficient, then all you need is a good quality paint to finish up your project.  By sufficient I don't mean that the walls look painted, but that you have covered all of the areas that you want.  Primer is a sealer, stain blocker and adhesive.  It comes out of the can with white pigment but is not a paint.  Paints are much more durable, but often cannot hide stains, stick to any surface or seal the substrate.  Because of this primer and paint are used in combination which will yield the best results.


I see no point in using the Kilz 2, even if it is tinted to approximate the color you want.  What you need is a high quality paint which will also resist mold and mildew.


In returning to your local Home Depot, I would not be surprised if the paint associate recommends a paint like Behr Premium Plus.




There certainly are other options available though.  Just make sure that you are getting paint, not primer, and that the paint will handle scrubbing well and fight mold and mildew.  Sheen is a matter of preference, but glossy paint will stand up better to cleaning than flat.


Is this what you are looking for?





Posted 2012-12-21T14:22:35+0000  by Chris_HD_CHI

Yes Newf, this is exactly what I was looking for. Your information gave me a clear perspective on painting. I really apreciate your help, Thank you very much


Posted 2012-12-21T17:36:54+0000  by Miguel91706

You're quite welcome Miguel.


I am glad I could help.  Please don't hesitate to ask if there is anything else we can do for you.





Posted 2012-12-21T17:46:56+0000  by Chris_HD_CHI


I am going to build a new house in near future and I decided to paint the entire house by myself.

It is a small 1500 sq.ft 3/2 house.

I wanted to know the steps I have to perform once the dry walls are up.

I think, i will have to Prime the Dry walls first. How I can do that? Can I use the paint sprayer and if  so then which paint sprayer would be good?


Thanks in advance for your help.

Posted 2012-12-28T19:55:24+0000  by Swapy




The normal procedure is to prime the new dry wall as soon as it goes up. The best primer for new drywall would be a 100% acrylic, such as Behrs Drywall Primer. !00% acrylic seals far better than the lower priced PVA primers.


Application of drywall primer can be by rolling or spraying, but if spraying, the primer should be "back rolled". The physical rubbing in of the primer assures good adhesion and also incorporates any drywall dust that might nothave  been removed. The loose sanding dust should be removed from the surface of the drywall before beginning.


If the ceilings are to be all the same color, they may be sprayed at this time also, but you do risk having them knicked-up during the remaining construction.


If the woodwork is to be stained,the staining and first coat of varnish can b e accomplished before it is hung. Aftyer hanging, the nail holes will be filled with a matching  color oil putty and then the final coat of varnish applied.


If the woodwork is to be painted in an enamel, the priming and first coat of enamel may also be done before being hung. After hanging, the nail holes can be filled, the edges caulked and the final coatof enamel applied.


The walls can then be painted room by room according to your color choices. The optimum paint job would then be two coats of a quality finish coat. This is especially important if strong colors or paints of a higher sheen are to be used. If only lighter colors of a low sheen are to be used, one finish coat would probably suffice.


The above instructions assume that you are using untextured drywall. If texturing is intended, the new texture would again be primed with the same drywall primer. Be advised that priming of texture requires MUCH more primer than plain drywall. That texture is nothing more than a slurry of chaulk.It sucks up LOTS pf primer. The texture also remains wet much longer and is vulnerable to damge until dry. If you lose your balance and put your hand on wet primed texture, you will have a handprint in your wall which must then be repaired.


Plain drywall will take about a gallon of primer per 250-300 feet of wall area. Bare textured walls will suck up about 1 gallon per 150 to 200 feet of area, depending on how heavy the texture is.


The finish coat of paint will give about 300 feet of coverage on average. The initial finish coat will suck up somewhat more, especxially if over a textured wall.


Woodwork is often primed and initial finish coated by laying it right on the bare subfloor on furring strips and spraying it.


Likewise , it is far easier to stain and seal stained woodwork before it goes down. It is hard on the knees to go around after it is mounted.


Likewise, painters will often establish a paint area in the garage or one of the rooms to spray the passage doors. The spraying can either be of the finish enamel, or the varnish if stained woodwork. Care should be taken to shield the walls from over spray, as a build-up of overspray will show through the finished wall paint.


After the woodwork is up and completely finished, the walls can then be painted in the same manner as in existing housing, i.e. protecting the woodwork with blue tape. The walls are a lot easier to deal with before the rugs go down. However, where hardwood floors are to be installed, I preferred to have them installed first and then protect them completely with red rosin paper. There is too much chance of damaging finished walls during floor installation. Also the baseboards are placed on top of finished floors after they are laid. Also, if the floors are sanded in place and stained, the potential for dust and splashed stain to get on the walls is just too great.


The above is just an overview and many painters may alter this procedure somewhat. My perspecxtive is from a painting conractor who did mainly high-end existing residential and custom new homes, usually for old customers who were building their dream home.


Hope this has been of help to you.

Posted 2013-01-01T03:15:41+0000  by ordjen

Thanks ordjen. This would help alot.


Posted 2013-01-02T21:34:00+0000  by Swapy
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