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rebuilding basement shower

I've removed what existed of a shower stall built under the stairs in the Basement.  A 36"x36" square 1/4" deep basin in the concrete floor exists for the shower with a drain approx. centered.  The basin is slopped into the drain.  Do I cut some polystyrene to create a level bottom for a prefab shower base/pan to rest on?  (Sterling by Kohler seems to have a component kit which may fit)

The depression is in an open area under the stairs accept for the concrete block wall.  what should I use for the other three walls? I was thinking pressure treated wood with cement board over them to attach the prefab shower walls to.  I'll be using preexisting pluming still in one wood/sheetrock wall I hope to also rebuild with better/newer materials.

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Posted 2012-03-02T02:52:15+0000  by sirperilus sirperilus

Greetings Sirperilus,


Welcome to our community and thank you for your question. My name is Tom, known here as HD116. Sounds like you are well on your way on this project and are ready for the next phase. While a replacement of this kind has a rating of moderate to hard, (at about a 7.5 out of 10) we at Home Depot are ready to help!


We have developed a Project Guide that addresses this very issue with links to related questions such as installing a wall kit. The most important consideration is to ensure that the pan is completely level. Many come with "shims" made of Styrofoam that serve as spacers. I suggest dry-fitting the pan and marking the drain and perimeter with a sharpie or pencil. This will dictate where the new walls will need to be and confirm that the drain will work at it's existing location. Check to see if it is level front to back and left to right. If not, you must use leveler or shims to make it level. The pan is designed to slope to the center when installed with the sides level.


The base plate of the new walls should be pressure treated, but the studs can be standard white wood. There are two approaches to attaching the prefab walls. The first is direct to the stud, which is overviewed here. The other way is a "glue - on" application which is found at this link. I would use the direct to stud approach since this is effectively new construction and you would not need to purchase green board or backer board.


Make sure that you vacuum the area and install the strainer assembly before you do the final setting of the pan. Using all of these resources will save you a lot of time and aggravation. I would love to see before and after pictures of this project as would other community members.




Thanks again for joining our community and sharing your project. We hope to hear from you again and are happy to have helped.


Posted 2012-03-06T14:30:59+0000  by HD116
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