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removing wallpaper

<div><a class="irc_mil i3597" target="_blank" href="" style="color: rgb(102, 0, 153); text-decoration: none; font-family: Roboto, arial, sans-serif; font-size: small; font-style: normal; text-align: center; background-color: rgb(34, 34, 34);"><img class="irc_mi" src="" alt="Related image" width="580" height="330" style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"></img></a><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; color: #7F7F7F;">What is a tendril?</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; color: #7F7F7F;"><br></span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; color: #7F7F7F;">Simply defined, a tendril is a thread like, spiraling, flexible growth that protrudes from the nodes of a vining plant. Tendrils help the plant connect and take hold of a structure to support vertical and horizontal growth of the plant, above the ground.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; color: #7F7F7F;"><br></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; color: #7F7F7F;">Grapes are a good example of a plant that depend on tendrils to climb and latch onto arbors and trellises, cucumbers are quick climbers using tendrils to attach to support systems, and anything they can grab  in the garden. It is amazing how much weight the tiny fibrous threads can hold up!</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; color: #7F7F7F;"><br></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; color: #7F7F7F;">Tendrils are always reaching to support the flowers, fruits and vegetables on their vines!</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; color: #7F7F7F;"><br></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; color: #7F7F7F;">Get support right here, do you have a garden question, let us help!</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><font color="#7f7f7f" face="Arial, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 16px;">Maureen</span></font></p></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div>
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Posted 2013-07-22T19:10:44+0000  by lauravan59 lauravan59
Hey lauravan59,

Since we spoke last, our product selection has changed to include Chomp Wallpaper Remover.

Personally, I like the concentrate mixed with very warm water.

Make only enough to cover one ten-foot section of wall.

If you treat more than ten-feet, the material will re-dry before you can remove the wallpaper.

The wetting process should include three applications of Chomp; waiting about five-minutes between applications.

This allows the remover to absorb through the paper and re-wet the water-based wallpaper adhesive.

This method has proven, over many attempts, to be very successful at removing larger sections of paper.

And, I do not like using the scoring tool ... the metal teeth open holes in the wallpaper but also creates holes in the wallboard.

When this happens, you must execute a full-wall skim coat and sand smooth ... a very large secondary repair.

Simply forego the scoring tool and wet the paper three times, waiting about five-minutes between coats.

It's your best pathway to DIY success and prevents the secondary repairs.

Now that you know "How To," please take time to come back and share your success with The Community.


Best Answer

Posted 2015-11-12T18:49:20+0000  by Pat_HD_ATL

Welcome to our community Lauravan59!


Thank you for your question! We have a Project Guide on our website that explains very well how to remove wallpaper. I have put the instructions below for easy reference.

Things you will need

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6


Since you will be painting afterwards, you will need to make sure that you use an oil based primer first. The reason being is that no matter how hard you try, you will not be able to get off all of the wallpaper glue. If you use a water based primer, it will reactivate the wallpaper glue and the places that the glue remains will bubble. No worries, you will be able to use any latex based paint on top of the oil based primer. :smileyhappy:


Please let us know if you have any more questions about this project and any other project!


Christine :smileyhappy:

Posted 2013-07-22T20:38:36+0000  by Christine_HD_ATL

 Be very careful if you use one of the paper perforation tools. They can cause a lot of damage to the paper of the drywall. If the paper is punctured, water continues on into the drywall . NOT good! At a minimum they leave thousands of little punctures that have to be patched!


I always preferred using 36 grit sandpaper to scratch through the outer plastic coating that is almost every wallpaper these days. You do not have to sand all the way through to the wall, but merely break through the plastic and the inks of the printed pattern. Once you see the white of the paper, that is fine.


The watch word for paper removing is PLENTY OF WATER AND PATIENCE! The average do-it-yourselfer gets frustrated because they start picking at the paper before the paste has properly released. Using a garden sprayer works much faster than trying to sponge the water solution on. To protect the floors, use 2 inch masking tape to tape 3 foot wide strips of dropcloth plastic to the top of the baseboard. After it is taped, roll the outer edge toward the wall to form a trough. As the water comes down the wall, merely  keep mopping it up. As the paper starts coming off, let it fall into the plastic and then roll everything up and right into a garbage bag when finished. It will usually take about 15 to 20 minutes for the paste to soften and release.


Don't soak down the whole room at once. If you do so, when the paper starts releasing, you will not be able to keep up with cleaning the wall. The paste will have needlessly dried out and have to be wet again. You will want to scrub down the wall of paste before it dries out. Continue using the sprayer to mist the paste while cleaning.

Use medium grade steel wool or 3M scrubby pads to aid in removing the paste, followed by wiping down with a sponge.


Finally, after the wall has been cleaned and dried down, prime the whole room. Try as you may, you will miss a little paste here and there. Primer will help seal it in before the paint is applied. Aslo, you probably will have knicked the wall a few times during removal and some patching will be in order. Again, a general primeing will seal them in.


Just a few hints from one who has done this literally hundreds of times over the last fifty years :smileysad:

Posted 2013-07-23T00:17:47+0000  by ordjen

Thank-you sooo much!! I especially did not know about using oil based primer after removing wallpaper, to prevent bubbling from the old wallpaper glue!! Will be tackling this project soon!!!

Posted 2013-07-23T17:37:16+0000  by lauravan59

Thank-you for the hints!! I will definitely keep all of that in mind, as I plan to take this project on by myself!! My husband is too busy with work, so I want to transform our bedroon all by myself!! He put wallpaper on at least 10 years ago, and although it still looks beautiful, it has started to lift, our walls are poorly insulated, and the outside walls have lifted badly. Have not had any luck using glues etc to reattach it to walls!! :( Will keep you UTD on my project!! Thansk again!!

Posted 2013-07-23T17:41:58+0000  by lauravan59




Wallpaper seams can be put down with some success. There are a couple tricks to use:


First, you have to lift the seam  enough to get new paste under it. Unfortunately, as you lift the seam, the seam wants to continue opening up up the wall. To stop this, take a single edge razor blade and make a small slit perpendicular to the seam at the point where the seam is still laying down. This will halt the seam from further opening at the slit.


The second trick is to take a hair dryer and heat the wallpaper seam up. Why? Wallpapers are covered with thin plastic coatings to make them washable. However, after some amount of time curled up, they begin to act like springs. If you press them down, they will spring back up even after being pasted. Heating the wallpaper seam relaxes the plastic, allowing it to stay down while the glue dries.


Finally, lift the warm wallpaper seam and put glue under the paper with a small brush. Then force the paper down and redistribute the paste with a dampened rag. Wipe off any paste that oozes out.


There are also glue injectors on the market that look like a large hypodermic needle, which is suitable for getting the glue under the seam.


The glue sold for pasting down seams is somewhat like Elmer's White Glue, rather than paste. Such a glue is available in the paint section at Home Depot.

Posted 2013-07-23T23:52:21+0000  by ordjen
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