02-05-2011 01:24 AM
I have a garage that was made into a storage room. I want to take the room and turn it into a hang-out room for my kids. I am interested in learning how to do a drop-ceiling and put up drywall. If you can please help me with this, it would be highly appreciated. And also, what would you do first- the ceiling or drywall.
02-05-2011 03:37 PM
I want to welcome you to our how-to community, thanks for joining!
Let's get into this project so the kids can hang out down there for many years to come. I helped a friend remodel her basement a while back, and now her and her family have a great living space down there, so lets do the same for you. You asked what would be better to install first, the ceiling or drywall. The short answer would be install the drywall first. The long answer is that you need the drywall to support the ceiling grid that you will place to frame in and later place the ceiling panels. With that said, let's go to work on installing those drywall panels first....
The other great folks in our how-to section of www.homedepot.com have already have some buying guides for materials, options, and handy install techniques to get the job done, here are their installation guides. It seems like a ton of information, but really just use them as a quick and handy reference for buying your tools in the store, as well as quick viewing them in your basement. Every item mentioned in this post can be found in our stores, and just ask any associate in the building materials for any assistance in rounding up your items, getting the job done couldn't get any easier
The links for the complete guide in the steps below can be found here.
Now we also have a video of the previous step on our website, even though its more like repair than installation, its gives you a great view of the tools in the process. View it here.
The drywall may be up, but the job isn't done yet. Now it's time to turn all those pieces of drywall into one solid wall ready for priming and painting. The long edge of each drywall sheet is beveled – purposely made thinner than the rest of the sheet. This creates a trough when the edges are put together. Seams of butt joints with beveled edges get a strip of paper reinforcing tape and three coats of joint compound. Each coat is slightly wider than the previous coat, and the final coat is 24 inches wide.
Now the only thing you have left is filling in the holes of where the sheetrock screws penetrated the sheetrock sheets themselves. Use a little bit of joint compound and do two quick runs over it with a putty knife and lightly sand down when it is completely dry. And there you have it.....new walls in your basement!
Now onto the ceiling known as suspended, grid or drop ceiling for your basement. Consider where you want the final look to be by drawing it on paper, which is how I always start any project of this size. Our supplier of suspended drop-in ceilings USG, has a great how-to guide on installing a grid system drop ceiling, check it out....
All of the main tees, grids, panels, and other accessories seen in the above instructions can be found on this webpage.
I know this seems like a lot of information, but with drywall installation and putting up ceiling tile can be quite a project, so going through each step in detail and giving you the most thorough information will allow you to get the best looking results in your basement. Best of luck to you dru091208!
I am a 12 year Home Depot Store Associate, trained and authorized to help people on the Internet.
03-09-2011 10:26 PM
Oh yeah, definitely a good way to add space to your life and value to your real estate at the same time! I would definitely dot he ob. I would start with the walls first, as has already been shown earlier. I'd get the walls up, and insulated , AFTER making the low voltage provisions for stuff like a computer and tv connections. Doing them before the wall and ceiling are done can make a more futureproof world in the future. I would also recommend while installing boxes in wall plan on doing switching of lighting into multiple zones or areas. I am thinking of an area to be lit over the tv to be dimmed seperately from other parts of the area.
For lighting control : 1.) dimmers are an easy way to use only the amount of light needed. 2.) motion sensing switches will make sure the lights go out when the motion stops in the area.
Lighting will be needed alright. I would recommend recessed lighting as a way to light the room in a way that leaves little to be hurt by life with kids, as they do what kids do. I would recommend the Halo 6" HICT new construction type of insulation contact "can light". They will work equally well for a T bar ceiling or for a dry wall install. There are over 20 trims available between the stocked items on the shelf, and the special order items. Pricing will start at about $3.00 for the ERT707 to over $30.00 each , and then you have the Ecosmart LED trim and source in 1 for around $39.99 each, which means not seperate trim and light bulb! Honestly, the hard to quantify , to help understand the value and "payback" part of the LED unit, is the amount of money to be saved by the LED unit when it produces virtually no heat. !man told me of putting 10 in his living room and dropping the temp 2 degrees in 2 hours after installing them. Another put 18 in his basement , he said the lack of haet from the incandescent lamps meant he now uses a ceramic heater to keep the room warm for his grandkids , when he watches them! Sure they are expensive, so maybe the Phillips 40-65 halogen, high effiecency lamp, it will cost less but it will save money. The Phillips unt will give a good quality of white , not yellow light, it will work with all most any dimmer , or motion switch. It's life span should have it last long enough to get a year plus out of them!