Indoor Decor

[Jay_HD_CHI]

Hey everyone,

Adding a focal point to a room is an important part of making your decor stand out and make a statement. Often times that one wall can set the tone for the rest of the room, or even the house for that matter----and sometimes paint just doesn't cut it. So why not do something a bit more creative? I know you've got it in you!~

Check out this cool video and guide for how to create your own Tile Stripes. It's a neat and easy way to DIY your way to a brand new look. Download the PDF below and follow along with these simple steps. If you have any questions, feel free to reply back here in the topic and we'll help you on your way!~ = )

SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate

TIME: 10-12 hours

COST: Approx. $200 based on (three) 5' sections for the stripes and a new quart of paint

TOOLS AND MATERIALS:

• Measuring tape
• String
• Pushpins
• Level
• Tile
• SimpleMat tile setting sheets
• Tile cutters
• Safety glasses
• Pencil molding tile
• Grout and float
• Sponge
• Cheesecloth
• Paint with rollers, trays, and other supplies
• Painter's tape

HOW-TO STEPS

1. Measure

Measure the wall space you'll be working with, and buy your paint and tile accordingly.

Measure 12 inches up from the floor and make a mark. This will be the space for your first tile stripe. Measure up eight inches and mark. Then measure up another 12 inches and mark. This will be your second tile stripe. Repeat as frequently as your wall space permits, giving eight inches of space between each tile strip.

Repeat this process on another paint on the wall to create a second reference point.

Use a string and pushpins to draw the guidelines for the tile stripes along the wall. Use a level to make sure they're straight.

2. Tile

Following the instructions on the box, apply the SimpleMat tile setting to the stripes you plan to tile.

Apply the squares directly to the tile mat.

Use tile cutters to clip away and protruding tiles.

3. Grout

Grout the tile with a float. Hold the float at a 45-degree angle.

Place pencil molding tile into the grout above and below the stripes.

Let the grout dry for 20 minutes.

Mop off excess grout with a damp sponge.

Let grout dry for another two hours.

Polish grout with a cheesecloth.

4. Paint

Tape off edges of the stripes with painter's tape.

Paint between, above, and below the tile stripes.

[gspahn]

so what are you using as a divider between the tile and the paint is it just the raw edge of the tile? that does not seem to look to good..?

[Kari]

I have three questions: I noticed this was done in the bathroom.  Am I to assume that the walls are already backerboard? Can you tile on regular wallboard? Finally, how do you work around outlets/light switchs (special outlet/light switch boxes to make up for the added thickness, etc.) if your tile stripe contains any? 

[Jay_HD_CHI]

Hey there gspahn,

Thanks for your question!~

I would recommend using a beading of caulk between where the pencil moulding ends and your paint begins, that way it will give it a softer, rounded edge and also protect it against water and moisture.

Hope that helps answer your question!~

[Jay_HD_CHI]

Hey there Kari,

Thanks for joining our community!~

• I wouldn't immediately assume that the walls are backerboard no, that's usually relegated to the tub/shower area mostly. A good amount of the time the walls are still drywall, or greenboard to be more precise. This is a water-resistant version of drywall made for areas such as this.
• You certainly can tile directly ontop of drywall, just scuff it up a bit with a light sanding and you're good to go.
• I find it easiest to do a dry layout first, so that way I'll know if I need to make any cuts or sizing adjustments. Line it up as best you can for the minimal amount of cuts, but use a glass nipper if needed for glass mosaics like you saw above.

Hope this helps answer your question!~ = )

[leamarie]

I am wanting to do this on the outside of my house on concrete.  Can i do it the way you descirbed above? are there any precautions i need to take since it will be outside in the weather all year round?

[quiltnsrep]

I'm echoing a question from a previous comment.....don't see an answer, and this is one thing that has stopped me from doing tile!

If I have an outlet or light switch in the path of the tile, what do I do? Do I have to somehow pull the box out further, to compensate for the thickness of the tile? If it is nailed to the stud, how do I do that?

Thanks for your assistance.....

[Jay_HD_CHI]

Hey there leamarie,

Thanks for joining our community!~

If you're planning on an outdoor project, I would recommend that you make sure the tile that you're using is frost-rated first. Most porcelain tile is frost-rated, so if you can work with that style, it will work best. You'll also want to make sure that you use a good outdoor rated thinset as well, such as Custom Building Products FlexBond 50 lb. Fortified Thin-Set Mortar or Custom Building Products 50 lb. Marble and Granite Fortified Premium Mortar.

You'll also need to make sure that your caulking is exterior grade as well, and that any paint you use is also rated for the exterior.

[Jay_HD_CHI]

Hey there quiltnsrep,

Thanks for joining our community!~

Sorry you've had to put off the project for this long...let's change that!~ = )

You will need to pull the outlet out further, but not to the point of having to pull out any wires or anything. You'll need to use "extenders" to do this job. Your first order of business...and the most important-- make sure the power to the room is completely turned off. This must be done at the main breaker before proceeding. Do not attempt any kind of work on this area before you have turned off the breaker, and ensured that no power is running to any of the outlets in the area.

Once that's done, unscrew the actual outlet from the wall and you'll notice that it will dangle out a bit from the wall. At this point, check how far out your tile is going to stick from where the wall currently is. Using a product like these Ideal Spacer Shims, you can manage within an 1/8th of an inch to where you need to be. Alternatively, you can also use an Electrical Box Extender to achieve this as well. I personally like the ease of the spacers however. In most cases, you may need a longer screw. Most screws used for outlets are #8, but bring it along to the store to make sure you get the right fit!

Once you have your spacer or extender installed, you can continue with the tile job and then cover it up with a decorative wall plate of your choosing.

If you have any other questions on this project, feel free to let us know!~ And if you can, share some pictures from your job with the rest of the community, we'd love to see how it turns out.

[quiltnsrep]

Thanks so much! This is great information, and very helpful!