03-02-2012 07:20 PM
Hi, my house has the original builder grade pure white melanine/laminate surface on all of the cabinet. I'm considering a change in color, but I'm concerned about painting the while color with another color where the white might show through. I wouldn't object to repainting the cabinets pure white again, but I'd really prefer a darker color. Has anyone had any issue painting their cheap white cabinets a darker color? Most photos that I've seen are of tannish cabinets being painted darker and the results have looked nice. Any suggestion?
03-04-2012 10:28 AM
Hi Mike - we are glad you joined the community.
The Cabinet Transformations product works very well on this type of material. The most important step in the process is in preparing the surface for the base coat. Sometimes you may need a second coat to obtain proper coverage and color retention.
Below is part of the companies FAQ sheet pertaining to this very issue:
Hope this helps.
03-04-2012 01:34 PM
I loved this product until the topcoat and was meticulous in putting it on. It was foamy, messy and hard to remove excess even though Home Depot suggested using a dry brush. I have spots where it produced many little bubbles or build up which is white. If i sand this down can I use another product? Do I have to sand it all the way down and start over? Can I degloss, add another coat of bond, and try another type topcoat like min-wax. Would appreciate some guidance please. Also, I agree with people who said glaze was pointless on the espresso color (which I love).
Thanks for the help.
03-04-2012 02:09 PM
Hi runmom - I am sorry for your frustration.
All water based polyurethanes are "milky" in appearance. Whenever there is any amount excessive amount it will dry with a white-ish like film. Applying several thin coats will remedy this problem.
However, I recognize that it might be too late for that in your situation. Simply lightly sanding down those areas and re-applying a fresh coat will fix the problem. Using a very soft high quality brush will make a huge difference in how the top coat lays out. It will dry in a consistent manner and look glass -like smooth.
Also, you can apply a base coat over the top if you are not satisfied with the results. It's not necessary to use the de-glosser at this stage. Either changing the base color or keeping the existing will be fine.
I hope this helps.
03-04-2012 02:32 PM
Thanks I did use a high quality Purdy brush that the Home Depot paint department recommended. If I use a different brand topcoat is there a brand and sheen you would recommend that would match what is already on there. The cabinet frame and flat panels were fine, it's the cabinet doors with the molding and grooves that is making it tough to avoid puddling and settling.
Thanks for the quick reply earlier.
03-04-2012 03:34 PM
When I spoke with Rust-Oleum they told me that their top coat is a premium product and compares to Minwax's Polycrylic water based polyurethane. They recommend using the Minwax if you need more or just want to change the sheen.
It's been my own personal experience that when applying a finish like this top coat - that laying the doors flat will help.
Other than that - you may have simply watch them dry. As you see the milky film disappearing check the corners and details. You may have to brush out those areas that pool up a little bit.
03-06-2012 02:19 PM
After re-sanding, deglossing and bonding for a second time, I found that the best solution for me for applying topcoat was to use a brush but to keep several foam brushes handy. Since my cabinet doors have many moldings and grooves it worked best for me to apply with the brush then to use the foam brush to remove accumulated topcoat in grooves. I was able to squeeze the brush into a cloth to dry it out as I went along and I now have no white, gloppy build up on the edges and grooves. I wish it hadn't take two full treatments to get to this point, but I am now very happy with the look and when I continue on to other rooms will use the brush + foam process.
03-07-2012 03:21 AM
I'm confused about your answer to LindsayTNYC. She wanted her cabinets to be pure white with no brushstokes or glazing. You state that Rust-Oleum's Cabinet Transformations isn't a good choice because it. . "leaves what's underneath to still show even in darker colors". Are you referring to the fact that she wanted the new color to be lighter or that she didn't want brushstrokes or glazing or ???
03-07-2012 03:53 AM
According to the two retailers in my town who carry the Cabinet Transformations kits, the only colors that are available are those in the Rustoleum brochure. The color I want is a slightly darker version of Winter Fog unglazed --- more of a taupe. Are you saying that substituting Behr Ultra paint (tinted to the exact color I want) can be substituted for the Bond Coat included in Cabinet Transformation kit?
03-07-2012 09:33 AM
Welcome to our community jrk,
I’m sorry for your confusion. Allow me to clear everything up for you. LindsayTNYC wanted her cabinets to be pure white and we were giving her another option besides the kit. Since she wanted the painted look, the kit wouldn’t be her best option.
As far as using the Behr Ultra paint, you can absolutely use it to paint your cabinets. However, you should prime them first with oil based primer.
I hope that cleared up your confusion.
Let us know if you have any more questions,
I am a Home Depot Store Associate, trained and authorized to help people on the Internet.