10-16-2010 10:23 PM
HAS ANYBODY GOT IDEAS FOR TIP OUT TRAYS TO INSTALL IN THE FAULSE DRAWER UNDER SINKS? I NEED TO KNOW THE BEST PLACE TO BUY THEM WITH THE SPRING HINGES AND ANY INFORMATION OR SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE WELCOMED. MY KITCHEN IS VERY SMALL AND ANYTHING I CAN DO TO MAKE MORE SPACE WOULD BE WONDERFUL.
LOOKING FORWARD TO HEARING FROM SOMEONE OUT THERE WHO HAS DONETHIS PROJECT OR HAS KNOWLEDGE OF IT.
ALSO, I HAVE A VERY UGLY 30 YR OLD YELLOW OAK BANNISTER, WOULD LIKE TO PAINT WHITE, IS IT BETTER TO TAKE SPINDLES OFF AND SPRAY AND THEN JUST BRUSH THE PARTS THAT ARE NOT REMOVEABLE?
ANOTHER PROJECT IS TRYING TO REMOVE SOME TILE WITHOUT BREAKING THEM. I ORDERED A NEW KITCHEN BUT HAD TO HAVE THE TILE REMOVED UNDER FRIDGE AND DISHWASHER FOR THEM TO FIT. I'VE BEEN TO EVERY TILE STORE IN DENVER AND SURROUNDING AREAS AND CAN'T MATCH THE PATTERN EXACT, I AM PUTTING IN A WOOD FLOOR FROM FRONT DOOR TO KITCHEN AND WILL BE REMOVING ABOUT 9 TILES AT FRONT DOOR AND ABOUT SIX IN FRONT OF FIREPLACE, HOPING TO SALVAGE FOUR (4) FOR KITCHEN, OTHERWISE WILL HAVE TO PUT THE WOOD IN KITCHEN WHICH IS IN LINE WITH HALLWAY AND LITTLE 1/2 BATHROOM, BUT DON'T KNOW IF IT'S WISE TO PUT WOOD FLOOR WHERE THERE ARE SINKS AND WATER PIPES (BAMBOO WOOD)???
THANKS FOR TAKING TIME TO READ ALL THIS. THIS IS MY FIRST HOME AND I'VE ALREADY MAKE SOME MISTAKES THAT HAVE COST ME MONEY AND TIME, SO NOW TRYING TO EDUCATE MYSELF BEFORE STARTING ANYMORE PROJECTS BIG AND SMALL.
I JUST BOUGHT A FIXER UPPER AND I AM DISABLED, SO I AM ON A BUDGET. ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING IN THE TOWNHOME NEEDS FIXED, REPLACED, ETC. RIGHT NOW I JUST FINISHED HAVING LAZY SUZ'S AND DRAWERS IN PANTRY INSTALLED AS IT WAS TOO HARD TO GET TO BACK OF SHELVES WITH NO COUNTER SPACE ON EITHER SIDE. I'VE ALSO HAD THE SOFFET KNOCKED OUT FOR MORE SPACE TO STORE THINGS PLUS A POT/PAN HANGER. SO ALL THAT'S LEFT IS TO FINISH IN THE KITCHEN IS THE TIP OUT TRAYS AND THEN IT'S ONTO A MULTITUDE OF PROJECTS, UPGRADES, ETC.
10-17-2010 11:51 AM - edited 10-17-2010 12:11 PM
Thank you for the great questions, and congratulations on your first home. I just spoke with aboveaveragejoe and he's working on some answers for each of your questions. We'll be back to you as soon as we can with some advice and suggestions for your projects. Thanks for coming to the community with your questions and feel free to keep them coming as we're all here to help.
10-18-2010 12:40 PM - edited 10-18-2010 01:46 PM
It's always good to see people tackling home improvement projects and it sounds like you’re doing a great one in the kitchen, the heart of any home! As your seeing the results improve your living and work spaces, we here at The Home Depot are here to help with any and all questions regarding your house remodels so let’s get started!
Your tip-out trays
I spoke with a kitchen designer at my store regarding tip-out trays in the false drawer. Great news! She recommends that you come into any Home Depot store and we can special order them for you. We need to get with the manufacturer of the trays to see if they come with spring hinges. I know you stated you are from the Denver area, so the company we use at our Atlanta stores, Rev-a-shelf, maybe different from your store. This particular company would be able to get the hinges and the trays in one fell swoop. Here is a link that has several of their trays. They have many options, so I know you'll find the right one for you!
30yr old yellowing banister
You brought up two good points with either spraying the spindles by removing them or painting them and leaving them intact, at least with the parts that are non-removable. If you can find a good quality semi-gloss or high gloss, spraying them when done correctly can be the best final look. If they are yellowing due to age, I'd highly recommend a good prep cleaning of the entire surface with a mild detergent or Tri-Sodium Phosphate (TSP) that every home center should sell. Let it dry off completely and prime coat the spindles with an oil-based primer so as to block the yellowing from the existing paint that’s on there now. My parents got saddled with painting their 50 year old house that has wooden panels that were yellowed due to smoke and age. After 3-5 coats of bright white in the bad areas, they realized too late their mistake, not just in money lost but really in time lost. So, without history repeating itself, go ahead and invest in an oil (also known as alcohol based) primer. You CAN put latex paint on top of that and it provides a good even coverage if applied properly. If you are willing to invest in a sprayer (consider renting one if you don't have one or if you want to buy one) you should get a High Volume Low Pressure (HVLP) sprayer. HVLP sprayers give the look of a perfect finish and would give the spindles a professional look. If you decide on painting them by brush, I'd suggest a foam or high-quality low-nap roller (1/4" no thicker) so as to give a smooth finish. The higher the sheen the more imperfections that can be seen in the finish, so a good sprayer or roller will remedy that.
From the information you gave me regarding your tiles, it looks as to me that it would be easier to install plank wood flooring down in those areas of your house. The main reasons why is because as you stated earlier, you couldn't find the tiles after searching extensively. Also, certain types of wood flooring can be used in wet areas like a kitchen if you know which ones to use. The wood to use would be Click Lock or plank real wood flooring and laminate wood flooring. You can even get real bamboo in the former. Click Lock is actually layers of real wood but installs over an underlayment and floats on the subfloor without nails or glue! Laminate is installed the same, but created differently out of solid pressboard. I'd definitely recommend caulking the moldings with a 100%silicone product afterwards so as not to have water leaking underneath your flooring at the edge of the room should you get a leak or spill on your floor. Click Lock and laminate floors when wet can still be mopped and cleaned very easily after a spill. Solid hardwood flooring would not be recommended due to it being thick real wood and having to nail or glue the floor directly to the subfloor which would be an issue if water gets trapped in it.
Another aspect of tile removal if it's ceramic, porcelain or stone is the mortar that was used to adhere it to the subfloor. Tiles are extremely difficult to take up without damaging them; due to the fact the mortar is essentially dried cement that bonds well to tile. So in my humble opinion, the easier option would be covering the tile with plank wood flooring and you'd be getting the look you want.
Please send us a message, updates or even some pics, as we always love a great do-it-yourselfer story!
Have a great day,
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