03-04-2012 08:37 PM
We purchased allure flooring and gave it a trial run in a walkin closet. It was easy to install and we like the look, so we are going to go ahead throughout our whole upstairs.
First question is regarding the layout. We have several areas where we will need to go around a space and then meet up on the other side. For example, our kitchen/hallway area has a 3x8 enclosed stairwell in the middle of it. We also have an island. I am concerned about placing the plank around these items, and then coming back together again in perfect alignment. Any tips for making this happen?
Second, I read somewhere on the forums to prepare a bathroom subfloor with mildew resistant paint. This isn't in any of the allure literature. So when do we need to paint wood sub floor and when do we not have to? We'll be removing our old flooring (carpet, loose vinyl) so will be installing on wood subfloor everywhere (bathroom, kitchen, hallways, front entryway)
Third, we have a "sunken" living room (thank you 1970's), so our dining room plank flooring will be on the high side of a ledge that is a 10 foot long straight section, then a curved section about 4'long. What type of transition strip is available to finish these edges?
03-05-2012 01:34 PM - edited 03-05-2012 02:57 PM
Thanks for your question and welcome to the community!
I'm glad you already got your hands on Allure flooring for your walk-in closet. Since you have a feel for how it is installed, this will greatly assist you in putting in the other areas you want of your home.
In this post, I'll do my best to answer the questions in the order you asked, lets get started:
First Question (layout)
When it comes to installing any floor, preparing the layout for it is crucial. In terms of having physical obstructions in the rooms (stairwell and island), it helps to first do a 'dry run' and place down the planks without installing them to see where the alignment will occur. Although it won't give you a laser-like measurement, it will give you a better idea on how the planks will set. Be careful at this step though, so as not to allow the plank's GripStrip to come in contact with the floor/dirt/other planks.
The key here though, is how exact you will need to cut and manipulate each plank so it can fit seamlessly around the obstructions. Since this floor is going to started from one area of the room, this shouldn't be that much of a problem. Where you may start a little head-scratching is when the planks finally meet the stairwell or island. Again, this shouldn't be a problem as long as proper planning is involved. According to Page 5 of the Allure Vinyl Plank Owner's Manual it states:
"Fitting around irregular objects, no problem. Simply make a pattern out of heavy paper to fit around pipes or irregular objects. Place the pattern upon the plank and trace. Cut along trace lines using a utility knife or heavy duty scissors, and lay plank. The sheets of paper in between planks inside the carton make an excellent template."
Essentially what you are doing is making careful measurements around any corners and gaps to allow a seamless fit for the floor. You would give yourself a 1/4" gap around all areas of the edge of the planks where it meets the wall/stairwell/island/ , this will give you some room to see and work with any changes needed. So again, as long as you install the planks from only one starting point alongside the longest wall, the installation shouldn't be affected by the stairwell and island.
Second Question (subfloor prep)
Anytime you put down any new flooring after taking out the old one, you'll more often than not will need to address any issues with the existing subfloor. All wood and concrete-based subfloors will need to be clean, level, and free of any deep imperfections to allow a floating floor system on top of it. If the subfloor is in an area that is prone to high levels of moisture (basement, kitchen, bathroom) I would place on a paint/moisture barrier of it, regardless of its makeup. If it is a wood subfloor, one of the best things you can put down is 1/4" tile backerboard. Installing tile backerboard as an underlayment makes the subfloor stronger and almost eliminates any water damage going down to the wood joists.
I know you were saying you were going to install new wood subfloors in your house, and that is still good for most areas...but consider using a stronger more water-resistant backerboard for the kitchen and bath areas. Using tile backerboard in those rooms will essentially be your water-proofing covering, so no painting or covering will be necessary. Professionals who lay down flooring typically use backerboard in those wet location areas, because they'll know the product will hold up over a long period of time.
Third Question (transition strip)
It seems like they did just about anything and everything to those 1970s houses. For your 10 foot straight section and curved 4 ft. section, I'd recommend to choose a uniform trim instead of picking two different types. One of our flooring companies, ROPPE, has some great flexible commerical transitions that can be purchased through special order only. Since you have a curved transition, this is usually a product that homeowners don't encounter, which is why it isn't sold in our stores. Come down to your nearest Home Depot, and a flooring specialist can special order the right transition for you. Below are some samples of the ones the company carries...
I hope this post has helped you out and please let us know if you have any further questions.
I am a 12 year Home Depot Store Associate, trained and authorized to help people on the Internet.